Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

That's very nice! how much is the free-board on that vessel?
I think mine has a 20" draft
Besides the wind screen it looks a lot like my boat...same original colour scheme anyway.
I didn't see mine b4 it was hacked up but it had seats like yours for sure.
I'm looking for a top for mine but a hard top is something I haven't seen.
Pretty cool boat, good luck!

PS I think mine is '69... It was named "my ole '69" before I bought it.It has similar lines for sure, what length is it?

Hey davinci I don't know what a free-board is, or 20" draft?
This one is a 1967 Seaflite SS177 so it is 17' 7". Everything you see is original. Did you restore the one you are talking about? I did a search but didn't see any pics. If you have a pic of your boat post it up.

Hey Sschefer thanks for your comments. I hear you too. For a lot less trouble seems I could really make that glass a better boat. But damn glass just scares me. Still looking for a transom link that I can relate to that would apply to my boat here. Just the thought of removing the cap and all....

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Ok...Little update here. I made it through my surgery nicely and am healed up enough to try and get serious again. In my haste and rush before the surgery, and the constant nagging about how we don't have room for two non-working boats from the sweet dear wifey, I sold the fiberglass starfleet. I got all my money back plus a little more to deliver it for the guy. But during my down time I read tons on here and I guess I should have kept that boat and the transom would not have been that big a deal. Oh well onward and upward!

That brings me back to restoring the Lund. There is just no way around this thing. I have an emotional attachment to it. And am looking forward to doing this. Couple of questions to get going.

1. What is the best way to sand this thing? Angle grinder? Orbital sander? I plan on taking it down to bare aluminum all the way around. Then etching primer and paint. I heard people using wire brushes on the angle grinder. Is that just for the inside? I was all set to buy my angle grinder and my brother-in-law (who is high-end finish carpenter and custom cabinet installer) told me no way. That the grinder would heat and bite into the aluminum too much. He is recomending an orbital sander. But what kind? How many rpms etc. Also can you guys recomend which grit to buy? Serious I know these questions may sound elemental but I don't know about these things. I would rather ask here than make 20 trips back and forth to lowes. I know there is the rough grit than a finer grit just don't know the numbers.

By the way my current power tools are only a circular saw and cordless drill. Any excuse to by more tools is for this project is great.

2. While I am out buying things I want to get the wood for the deck and transom. I have seen tons of restore threads and seems everyone uses different things. I have seen pressure treated wood used, marine plywood, outdoor plywood, etc. Also the size seems to be 3/4 for the transom and then again debate on the floor. 1/2 or 3/4? My question here is: If I use the outdoor ply will that corrode the aluminum like the pressure treated? Seems like pressure treated is absolute no no on aluminums.

3. When I am putting transom in... I seem to be having confusion as to what makes the seal? You know the seal to the bottom of the hull and sides. Again some threads people are using marine silicone, and I know what some of you think about that. Am I supposed to 'peanut butter' the seams like in a fiberglass project? Just want to do the best possible job, cause I don't want to do again.

I will have more questions but this is just a start to get me going at the store.
Any other thoughts would greatly be appreciated. I do have hand tools; hammers, wonderbars, screwdrivers, handsaws, etc.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Check out MrMarine's thread. He's having fantastic results with a chemical stripper that may save you a TON of time.

I used 3/4" ply on my floor just because that's what I took out. Other have said you can use 1/2". I like how solid mine feels. I used pressure treated because at the time I didn't know any better (about the problems with PT and aluminum). Now I guess I'd use regular exterior grade ply. Personally if I were doing one today I'd just paint the hell out of it with a good oil based paint. I don't have a lot of interest in getting involved with fiberglass. However I recognize that sealing it with glass and resin will make a deck that will probably outlive me.

I'm not sure I understand your question on #3. The transom on a tim boat is just to reinforce the aluminum skin of the hull. It doesn't really need to "seal" to anything. Mine doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the boat. It slides down into a little shelf about 3" from the bottom. You just need to make sure anything that bolts through it is sealed well.

Standard transom thickness is 2 layers of 3/4".

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Hey ezmobee thank you for the quick reply! Funny thing is I just added that thread from Mr.Marine to my favorites. I too am wondering how that stripping is going, especially around the million rivets that tin boats seem to have. The test pick looks encouraging. I am going to probably do the oven cleaner on the inside and use that Lab-Metal stuff to try and smooth out the outside a bit once it gets stripped.

I get what you are saying on the transom. For some reason I didn't think the aluminum went all the way back there in a sealed way. So a good cleaning and some gluvit on the rivets and slide the new transom in. I am sure this will make more sense as I start pulling the old one out. I am starting this on the weekend so I will post some more picks as I go.

Any thoughts on the power tool options?

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

On a side note, I called up Lund Boat Co. and gave them my Hull ID# and they graciously told me what I have. Its a VFR 15 O/B. She pulled up some old catalogue archives that they had and can you believe it they color copied it an sent me the applicable pages. I don't have a scanner so I will shoot these pages with my digital camera and post them. Won't be the best but better than nothing. This is for the year 1978.

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[mantis270]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Good for you for taking on this little adventure...I'm in the same boat HAHA...Booo...I know...bad one.

Anyway, I am in the middle of renovating a 14' Lund right now. I have a thread up here that I update as I progress. I just finished sealing the inner hull and am in the middle of beefing up the transom and getting ready to fabricate and install a splash-well.

First thing I did was strip everything out of the inside ... took it down to a bear hull. I then took the transom apart and removed the wood. When you're doing this, try to save the old transom and bench tops for templates to cut the new ones.

To strip the paint, I gave it a quick scuff with some sandpaper to break the surface a little then used some gel paint stripper from Home Depot...what didn't come off with a plastic putty knife, I knocked off with a medium coarse wire wheel. Don't linger in one spot with a wire wheel... aluminum is a relatively soft metal and you don't want to remove any. Any remaining, stubborn spots came up with an electric sander (a 'Mouse')...also handy for getting stuff out of seams and corners.

There were several holes in the transom from various transducers and other devices that have been installed then removed over the years. I also found a few serious pits resulting from galvanic corrosion caused by mild steel being attached (brackets, screws, etc.) to the aluminum. To fix these holes, I used JB Weld...clean the metal and holes with a drill bit and sandpaper then goop it into the holes then sand smooth once it cures. There were several rivets that were loose here and there that I drilled out and replaced with aluminum pop-rivets sealed with a dab of 3M 5200 Marine Sealant.

For wood, I'm using plain old plywood. I cut the part to shape and install with all the screw holes drilled then take it apart, sand and coat with fiberglass resin making sure to seal the inner surfaces of the holes. I'm using all stainless steel hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, etc.) for some extra corrosion protection.

Other than the Gluvit sealant, I have bought everything from Home Depot or Lowes.

Hang with it and try not to over-think and complicate things for yourself!

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Been a while since I updated my thread here so I thought I would share what I thought was a hell of a deal.

I am returning my boat to a walkthrough windshield with dual consoles. I have two little kids and just like the protection from the wind and elements, not to mention the spash of a wave or two that this set-up provides. Anyways I picked this windshield up for 125.00 including shipping. It's brand new to boot.

Just adding the link to others who might like to get these before he sell out of them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brand-New-Complete-Boat-Windshield_W0QQitemZ270396708794QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBoat_Parts_Accessories_Gear?hash=item3ef4e657ba&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

OK started finally getting dirty...and for those that have done this...sigh! Getting that mother @#$%# foam out was a real pain in the arse. Thank you to all who have gone before. I found out my best friend for this job was a wonder bar, putty scraper, and the absolute invaluable wet/dry vac. My hell what would I have done w/o that?

I have a couple of questions that I need some help on. If you look at the pics of the bow area. There are two pretty flimsy looking thin pieces of aluminum that form the legs of an 'A". I actually took them out to remove the foam underneath by cutting off four rivet heads and popping them off. Anyways, they just dont seam to offer any kind of support unless the foam is under them to give them sum rigidity. I am absolutely NOT putting that freaking expandable foam back in the boat. Any thoughts as to how to give some suppport to those pieces?

My other questions is to the "L" shaped bracket I took pics of. These are actually riveted to the boat by two rivets that go all the way to the outer hull. The PO actually had these bent down and screwed to the deck. With the deck underneath them? Doesn't seem right to me, maybe the deck over them not under. I thought maybe they were to provide some sort of bracket to hold the side compartments? Any thoughts here guys?

I got all the foam out today and plan on using the oven cleaner on the inside tomorrow, then on to the paint stripping. I did call the the manufacturer of the Lab Metal product and they indeed said it would work on my aluminum boat application. Mainly smoothing out the dents and imperfections like a bondo product. Also it would adhere plenty fine with a buff and scuff and I could sand smooth and paint. It will NOT come out with the jarrring from waves or expand and contract to the point of screwing up my paint job. So says the manufacturer. So I ordered up a half gallon and will document with pics.

I almost forgot to take pics and when we finished it was too dark to see our progress so I will post again tomorrow with some more pics.

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

One more additional thought. During our lunch break from working on the boat, my brother and I grabbed some subways and headed over to the ONLY Lund dealer in SLC to get some further inspiration. Stood in a 2009 1750 Fisherman. It had a 150 Merc and a 9.9 kicker, trolling motor up front, I assume all the bells and whistles. They only wanted $43,000.00 @#$% dollars? How is THAT for inspiration. Holy hell I didn't even ask what the Grand Baron or Tyee were going for.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

With a little ingenuity I bet you could replicate that sweet set up.

 

[lakeorbay]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

I didn't have time to read your entire post. I'm partial to Lunds because I own one too, but that second boat you got is SWEET!!! That's the closest thing I've seen to a car on the water. Could you imagine towing that with a '65 Rag Top Thunderbird in the same color? Keep the progress pics on the Lund coming, might give me some ideas.

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Hey guys, hope I can get an answer from some people on this. I can't believe the work involved on getting this boat clean after strip down. The previous owner before replacing the deck seemed to think that tar was a good thing in to swab on over the entire bottom hull. I have been scrubbing with various things to get this up and it is a MAJOR PIA.

Any suggestions for removing this? I have tried couple different Klean strip proucts that have had varying success. SLX denatured alcohol was least effective. Two different paint thinners were ok AFTER applying JASCO premium paint and epoxy remover. Basically the Jasco just turns into a gooey mess. Then I use a scraper to put in in a bucket. PLEASE offer some suggestions. Sand it? Say the hell with it and just clean what will be above the floor?

I did do a water test by filling the boat with water and had few leaks but nothing some gluvit and a little bucking of rivets shouldn't help. I just don't want to open a can of worms maybe from removing all of this tar.

I will get some pics hopefully up tonight.

Thanks in advance.

 

[sschefer]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Hey guys, hope I can get an answer from some people on this. I can't believe the work involved on getting this boat clean after strip down. The previous owner before replacing the deck seemed to think that tar was a good thing in to swab on over the entire bottom hull. I have been scrubbing with various things to get this up and it is a MAJOR PIA.

Any suggestions for removing this? I have tried couple different Klean strip proucts that have had varying success. SLX denatured alcohol was least effective. Two different paint thinners were ok AFTER applying JASCO premium paint and epoxy remover. Basically the Jasco just turns into a gooey mess. Then I use a scraper to put in in a bucket. PLEASE offer some suggestions. Sand it? Say the hell with it and just clean what will be above the floor?

I did do a water test by filling the boat with water and had few leaks but nothing some gluvit and a little bucking of rivets shouldn't help. I just don't want to open a can of worms maybe from removing all of this tar.

I will get some pics hopefully up tonight.

Thanks in advance.

If it is really tar, like roofing tar then just get plenty of rags, a flamable rag can and a couple of gallons of diesel fuel. That will take it off in no time. If you can do it on a semi-warm day all the better. Make sure you have plenty of ventillation and put those rags in the can pronto.

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Ok thanks Scheffer I am headed down to try that out. Guess I will buy a gallon or two of diesel fuel and try it. OMFG.

 

[03vrod]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Hey just read your thread,I'm kinda in the same boat a 16' Cherokee,1961.It had several pitted areas in the bow and stern a few small holes and a couple big dents.I had some of those aluminum welding rods I bought 10 years ago in my tool box if you use a wire wheel to clean the area they work good.I stripped the hull inside and out using a sander,wire wheel and a stripping wheel,took a little while to clean around all the rivets.I just don't like solvents we ruined a Corvette back in the 80's.I read on a drift boat site how they use gluvit and most were switching to Coat-it .They use it on the bottoms to prevent damage and said it was lasting longer and they don't have to strip it all off when redoing it.That's where I'm at now hopefulli painting base coat tomorrow.I'm taking pics and hope to post thread soon.I hope these might help you with yours.

 

[sschefer]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Just a word of caution - Be carefull with the HTS2000 and any other name it may come by. Those aluminum soldering rods require you to take the aluminum to 732 degrees and that is well beyond what will temper the hardenened aluminum that's used in these boats. If you are not carefull you can cause cracks to form. My advice would be to stay away from it. If the holes are of the size that you can repair with these sticks then they are small enough to use Marine Tex or some other metal replacement substance like JB Weld.

 

[slbri]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Ok here are some pics as promised. Can't believe how slow this goes. I did try the diesel fuel. And well...it worked on oven cleaner sprayed areas somewhat. But for the tar that had sat for all those years not very well. What did work was an old wire wheel I had placed on a drill. But with the diesel soaked tar I spattered tar all up an down my legs as I was in shorts. You think that **** would come off in the shower? Noooooo. Seriously this is becoming comical.

I think I am going to have to bow down to all those that have said before. There just doesn't seem to be a substitute for elbow grease, sander, and wire sander as well. The problem is I don't own an orbital sander. Guess with all the money I spent on oven cleaner, stripper, and diesel fuel I could have bought a decent orbital sander.

On a side note, my worthless 26 year old brother who lives at home with my mom, no job, no life doesn't help out around the house or yard, who just plays the Wii and World of Warcraft, has decided he just doesn't want to help me out on the boat. I offered to pay for all the repairs from motor to matierials, seats, duraliner etc. and give him half ownership in the boat if he helped me. He initially agreed, but for the last two days he just didn't 'feel' like working on the boat. He said it was just too hot. LOL it has been like 75 degrees with overcast skies the last two days. Absolutely perfect. Anyways I guess I just need to vent. Like the rest of you I guess it comes down to me, myself, and I. So I guess its just me working on it at 7:00 till dark weekdays and then marathon sessions on weekends. Took everything in me to not absolutely THUMP his arse!

Ok onto the question of the day. Please look at the red highlighted areas of the two pics. What the hell are they? They don't look 'stock' from Lund. They are not riveted, they are screwed on from the bottom of the hull. I thought maybe someone put them there for support? For a bunk trailer? They are not the fins under the boat either. I have no idea why they are there? Should I remove them? Should I replace the rusted out screws on bottom on hull? Thoughts please.

And of course my SLOW progress on getting the tar and crap up. I am working from the bow to stern.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

You need to get a cheap $20 grinder from HarborFreight and a wire wheel. I stripped my entire trailer with one of those. Useful tool to have.

 

[03vrod]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

I don't know about the boat being tempered.This is my first aluminum boat .I built the big trucks at Freightliner when the cabs were made of Aluminum and we welded them all the time and I welded my neighbors 97 Bass Tracker 7 years ago it was leaking around the rivets in the keel.I hope I didn't mess up using the rods just a couple of small corrosion pin holes in the bilge area.I'll keep an eye on it and let you know if anything happens.Thanks for posting that info

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Start of Lund Restoration...maybe

Is it tar? or is it a poor attempt to use bedliner from a can?

Yup, whenever people try something such as coating the entire inside or outside it is asking for future problems. Maybe it is that coat-it stuff that 03vrod keeps pushing

Those metal strips are interesting. If they are screwed with regular screws remove them. Are they steel? If so just toss them..... if they are aluminum install them with rivets..... unknown to me? Look real close for rot in the aluminum under those strips due to galvanic reactions.