Shoreland'r Rebuild

[MNhunter1]

Greetings all! I usually hang out on the Starcraft forums, but ventured over here for some guidance on the rebuild of my early 80's Shoreland'r trailer. I just leapfrogged the boat off the trailer and onto a cradle I threw together. Got everything torn apart and currently ordering new hardware/parts and getting all the pieces ready for primer and paint.

Need some advice and/or recommendations:

1) Anyone see any issues with replacing the front rollers with some ~42" 2x6 bunks? I was considering a full bunk conversion, but with the construction of this specific trailer and the pivoting rear cross member, I feel I need to leave the rollers in the rear. The boat has sat on this trailer for almost 40 years, so it's not necessarily a problem that needs fixing, but I do believe I could easily add the front bunks for a little better support.

2) Slipper leaf springs measure 32", 4 spring, 1-3/4" wide. Best replacement I can find is a 1000lb capacity. I am unsure of the trailer rating, its a fairly stout/heavy trailer with a 2x3 drop axle, so I'm thinking maybe somewhere in the 3100-3500lb range. That would put the leaf spring rating a little lower than ideal, but I can't find anything in that size at 1500lb. The dry weight of the hull (1984 Starcraft MR180) is 705lb, and outboard weighs around 300lb. Add 100lb of fuel, figure 600lbs or so for the trailer itself, add in batteries, etc. and I should still be likely sitting below 2K lb. Anyone see any issue with the 1000lb rated leaf springs?

3) Coupler - Its a short tongue. Was hoping I might just be able to find an extended coupler, but appears most solutions are either a hitch extender or fold away tongue, which would also be a pretty tight fit with the winch stand placement. Fits great in the garage as is, but a little close for comfort when towing/launching. I have a 2-1/2" drop hitch receiver, and don't really want to go to a reducer and 2" for a hitch extension. Any other recommendations for gaining a foot or so of tongue length?

4) Wobble Rollers - currently has some pretty hard 4.25 x 4.5 Moeller black rollers. Aside from how hard they are, they don't seem to be bad? Re-use or replace? Recommendations for replacement? I know people like the Stoltz, but seem hard to find in this wobble roller style, and those you can find are like $20+ each.

Thanks!

 

[briangcc]

I'm no expert but to me, that looks like the trailer is either maxed at your current boat or maybe a bit undersized. I'm going off where the winch post is currently located.

Extending the tongue means you're moving the center of gravity and also changing your tongue weight. To compensate, you'd move the axle forward BUT it looks like you're maxed already. Catch 22 on this one.

Good spring shops can make springs to your specs, don't get caught up in what you can buy in a catalog.

My vote...put the trailer back together and live with it as is OR toss it up on your favorite selling site and get a new one with the features you want that's correctly sized.

 

[MNhunter1]

I'm no expert but to me, that looks like the trailer is either maxed at your current boat or maybe a bit undersized. I'm going off where the winch post is currently located.

Its a good, robust trailer that seems to fit the hull just fine, just short in the tongue. I don't feel its necessarily undersized and has carried it just fine for 40 years.

 

[MNhunter1]

Here's the same boat, same year, similar trailer (not mine) as another example:

 

[briangcc]

Its a good, robust trailer that seems to fit the hull just fine, just short in the tongue. I don't feel its necessarily undersized and has carried it just fine for 40 years.

Because its meant for a shorter boat. That's why your tongue is so short because the winch post has been moved so far forward to compensate.

Trailer companies list trailers by min-max length of boat and from the looks of things, Starcraft chose to cheap out on the trailer in the package by using the max value. So while it can carry the weight, its not optimal as you've quickly found by where the winch post is located.

To fix it, I'd sell the trailer and get one better suited for the boat.

The other option would be to get a fold away tongue welded onto your existing trailer and then deal with adjusting your tongue weight. But I think you're in a trap there by not being able to shuffle the axle to compensate for the additional tongue weight.

 

[roscoe]

I have the same boat, but had no trailer. I bought a new one, a welded galvanized.
I wanted to add a walking out plank, and needed more room to open the lift gate on the Trailblazer.

Since the tongue was welded in place, I bought a FULTON folding hitch package that added two feet and a folding tongue. I don't think they sell it as a package any more.

It worked great. Tongue weight was changed very little.
My rig is a bit heavier than yours with a 115 hp and a 15 hp kicker, along with custom storage in front, 2 batteries, 20 gallon tank, 2 spare tires, and when we put a 14'er on top and head to Canada, it weighs in at 2440#.
It sits on a 2900# trailer, which I added electric brakes to when I downsized the tow vehicle.

Two suggestions:

1. Since the tongue is a bolt on, and you have it removed, just buy a new longer tongue and bolt it on, as long as it still fits in the garage.

2. Make sure you get new bolts for that pivoting crossmember. I believe they are grade 8. Had one break on dad's trailer and resulted in being stranded for a few days and punched holes in the boat.

 

[MNhunter1]

Two suggestions:

1. Since the tongue is a bolt on, and you have it removed, just buy a new longer tongue and bolt it on, as long as it still fits in the garage.

2. Make sure you get new bolts for that pivoting crossmember. I believe they are grade 8. Had one break on dad's trailer and resulted in being stranded for a few days and punched holes in the boat.

Thanks Roscoe,

Yeah, problem with the bolt on tongue is I'd need about a 10ft section of 3x3 and I'm not sure I can find it locally. I may just go with the swing away as it seems like the best option.

Ordering all new hardware, so will be sure those pivot bolts are grade 8. assuming grade 8 for the two tongue to frame bolts as well? Was planning on galvanized for the rest, aside from the leaf spring hanger bolts.

 

[redneck joe]

Here's the same boat, same year, similar trailer (not mine) as another example:
View attachment 398714View attachment 398715

I own that boat now, in TN.

I pulled home with my vw sportwagen and for tounge weight I pushed forward. Now home and I pull with my pos 96 f150 I pushed back that couple three inches. I have no issues dropping the tailgate in fact it's perfect to walking or off the bow.

 

[redneck joe]

I have the same boat, but had no trailer. I bought a new one, a welded galvanized.
I wanted to add a walking out plank, and needed more room to open the lift gate on the Trailblazer.

Since the tongue was welded in place, I bought a FULTON folding hitch package that added two feet and a folding tongue. I don't think they sell it as a package any more.

It worked great. Tongue weight was changed very little.
My rig is a bit heavier than yours with a 115 hp and a 15 hp kicker, along with custom storage in front, 2 batteries, 20 gallon tank, 2 spare tires, and when we put a 14'er on top and head to Canada, it weighs in at 2440#.
It sits on a 2900# trailer, which I added electric brakes to when I downsized the tow vehicle.

Two suggestions:

1. Since the tongue is a bolt on, and you have it removed, just buy a new longer tongue and bolt it on, as long as it still fits in the garage.

2. Make sure you get new bolts for that pivoting crossmember. I believe they are grade 8. Had one break on dad's trailer and resulted in being stranded for a few days and punched holes in the boat.

Not to hijack thread but where did you locate the fuel tank?

 

[roscoe]

I recently converted to side console for more open space.
So console went forward and starboard.
Bought a new fuel tank, 10" x 10" x 47" long.
Put it along the port side, in a box 16.5" high.
Makes for a nice place to lay gear, and measure fish without getting down on the floor.
Batteries also moved forward under drivers seat.

 

[redneck joe]

thanks rosco. I'm keeping center console have been looking at 17 gal tanks to put in between the fish tank and CC. Move up battery as well. Interesting to look at the 21' and relative to the overall length the CC is much farther forward.


We now return you to our regularly scheduled programming....

 

[MNhunter1]

Just a little update as I've slowly been grinding away at this trailer project.

Currently have all the major frame pieces stripped as good as I could with an assortment of wire brushes, stripping pads, flapper discs, and sanding pads via angle grinder, drill, and orbital sander. Gave it all a good cleaning with acetone and sprayed it all down with Rust Kutter phosphoric solution where it currently sits for a 4 day drying period. Will give it all a good washdown and scrubbing with water/Dawn dish soap, hand dry, blow dry, and final acetone wipe down just before primer and paint. Borrowed a big 5.5hp gas compressor to lay down the primer and paint with the HVLP. Such a game changer with a good sized compressor. New set of hubs/bearings enroute, and all new hardware ordered. New leaf springs arrived and will be upsizing the tires to 205/75R14 from the current 175/80R13. Replacing the front wobble rollers with some short bunks. Also picked up a 3ft section of 3x3 steel square tube in 3/16" and a Fulton bolt on fold-away hinge kit. I may shorten the 3ft section a bit, but want to get it all mocked up first to see what length I really need. Longer tongue may reduce tongue weight, but I do have the ability to move the axle back a bit if needed.

Still debating what to do with the rear rollers. Existing rollers are a bit over 4x4, and any new ribbed replacements measure 5x3. The slight increase in height would actually be welcomed, but I'm not sure if losing ~8" of surface support across the rear rollers is anything worth considering?? The originals will allow more "wobble" with the way they sit on the shaft, but also not sure if that's really going to matter much. I guess the biggest question is, do I just reuse the existing rollers or replace with all new? There are no visible cracks or flat spots, just seem really hard without any give to them. I'd also be left with 4 extra spares after replacing the front rollers with bunks if I stuck with the originals. I do have all new stainless washers and cotter pins, so either way, that's all getting replaced.

Plan is to prime and paint over the weekend, so hope all goes well!

As a bonus, I was able to connect with someone from Shoreland'r and received all the needed information on my trailer, right down to the schematic with all individual parts identified. Original rating of 1600lb carrying capacity, which works perfect for my estimated 1300lb of boat, motor, batteries, fuel, and trolling motor calculations.

 

[MNhunter1]

1984 Shoreland'r SS-R1612C

 

[MNhunter1]

The hubs I ordered came with single lip grease seals and I ordered some Bearing Buddy double lip replacements. The replacement seals are the correct I.D. and O.D., but slightly thinner in width than the originals. Do I press them down in the hub a bit(leaving a slight lip) to sit against the inner bearings, or just press them flush with the edge of the hub? I'm assuming they need to sit against the bearings to eliminate any play, but my paralysis by analysis is getting the best of me.

As a side note, I noticed many hub options while shopping for my replacements that just came with single lip grease seals. I understand double lip seals are recommended for boat trailers. Is this still correct, or are the single lip seals of today sufficient for recreational boat trailers?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I've always used double lip seals.

 

[airshot]

I have a 1992 version of the same trailer, but mine has many more rollers than yours has. 6 rollers on ea side in the back. Three keel rollers, support is needed at the back not as much in the front.

 

[MNhunter1]

I have a 1992 version of the same trailer, but mine has many more rollers than yours has. 6 rollers on ea side in the back. Three keel rollers, support is needed at the back not as much in the front.

This was a 12 roller trailer, with two sets of four in the back and 2 each on each side in the front, along with the keel rollers. I'm keeping the 8 rear rollers, but replacing the front roller with short bunks. Keeping the keel rollers as well.

Apparently, the model numbers back in the day identified the carrying capacity and number of rollers. R1612C = "r"oller trailer, "16"00 lb capacity, "12" rollers, and "c"ustom fenders.

 

[airshot]

Mine is rated for 2K lbs. 6 rollers on each rear side with four keel rollers, ( I added two) no bunks. First thing I would do is replace the black rubber rollers with the yellow poly rollers, far better quality and life.

 

[MNhunter1]

Got some paint laid down this weekend. Still have some smalls like the winch post and roller brackets to finish, but the heavy lift is done!

 

[airshot]

That is a rebuild/ repaint from the ground up ! Nice !