Seeking Opinions/Advice on the Boat I Just Bought.

[ARBoatGuy]

I'm very new to boating, and was seeking to find a project to work on over the fall/winter with my son, so I bought this cute little aluminum boat that caught my eye, with the idea of of fixing it up really nice.

After research, I believe it is a cabin cruiser, made in Dallas during the 50's


View attachment DSCF0685.JPG

My main concern is properly inspecting the hull, how to find any potential problems, best way to fix them, and how to best preserve everything once I'm done with that, to best protect the hull in the future.

I can tell you it's planned use will be very light, occasional trips to peacful parts of the Ark river, then back home, hardly ever in the water for more than 6 hours at a time, perhaps occasionally for 24-48 hrs. Thinking of only using a trolling motor if I can get away with it, low speeds.

Beyond hull inspection/repair/preservation, I'd also like opinions on exterior finishing, shine up the aluminum?, glossy paint job? something else?

And otherwise, in general, say you just paid 800 bucks for this, would it be a worthwhile project for you in the right circumstance? and what would YOU do with it? is there a chance it might only be good for scrapping? if not now, in the near future? it's roughly 70 y/o aluminum.

I would appreciate any thoughts and opinions.

 

[poconojoe]

That's one cool looking boat!
The fact that the hull is aluminum is a real plus.
I don't know anything about that particular boat, but I'm sure you'll get plenty of help here.
Post up some more pictures all around and inside.
Is there any powertrain left?
Is is outboard, inboard or inboard/outboard?

 

[444]

Generally I say project boats are a lost cause... unless they are made of aluminum. I think that you got a great deal for 800 bucks. If you're wanting to keep the engine size small, I would do twin 15hp outboard engines on it. That way you can run on one, both and have a spare to get you home if one quits. In terms of the hull, I would strip it, epoxy primer and paint. Aluminum looks great when shined up however it dulls and oxidizes very quickly and if you're anything like me you're not going to be constantly buffing your hull to keep it shiny. Also any shiny or glossy finish will show the dents and dings much more than a matte. Don't do flat though, that looks to chalky IMO. For inspecting the hull, after you strip off the paint check it closely with a flashlight for any cracks or holes. An aluminum welder can tig weld them. Then water test the hull, note any leaks from rivet seams, etc and seal them with a paintable marine silicone. After that clean everything, epoxy prime the whole thing then paint.

 

[ARBoatGuy]

great responses already, thanks 444 and PC, I'm still processing it all, feel more optimistic. I love the flashlight in total dark idea to look for leaks.

this is the only current photo I have of the underside:

View attachment DSCF0698.JPG


currently been brainstorming how to safely flip it on it's side, or all the way over. I think it's pretty light, I would guess between 500-700 pounds at most.

and that could be way off, it's 20 feet long and about 4 1/2 feet wide, nothing in the interior but aluminum frame.

any guessers on the weight?

 

[ARBoatGuy]

Post up some more pictures all around and inside.

still just currently have the pictures I took when it was on the lot, I plan on taking more tomorrow, but here is some of what I have:

(thanks for your interest)

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[ARBoatGuy]

Also any shiny or glossy finish will show the dents and dings much more than a matte. Don't do flat though, that looks to chalky IMO.

that makes sense and is good advice on how the exterior will look,

on that topic, you'll notice from the first picture the nose is bent in, no doubt from ramming into things, could and should anything be done about that?

 

[dwco5051]

Love the looks of that boat. If I was twenty years younger I would take it on as a project in a minute. It will take some time and money to put back in the water and even more time and money for a complete restoration. I don't have any idea of your skill level but if you are able to do most of it your self more time than money will get it in the water. The only thing that jumped out at me in the pictures were the two bent braces in the motor well. The first thing I would do after an initial visual inspection is float it (along with as many buddies that would go with me) to look for leaks and have the weight to get it up to the normal water line. Even the trailer looks to be in pretty good shape. I would no worry about the dented bow for now as it is pretty much only cosmetic.

 

[roscoe]

Great looking project boat.
Many options on how you finish it.
We have a Starcraft boat forum that is very active with aluminum boat restorations. Lots of info and ideas for you.

Starcraft Boats

forums.iboats.com

Polished metal is blinding in the sunshine.

Painting aluminum requires special primer, zinc chromate ( or a similar etching primer).
There are good roll on paint finishes available.

Boat needs to be in the water to find most leaks as they occur in the seams, a flashlight ain't gonna cut it.

Electric trolling motor may not cut it, especially with river current.
You can buy a good outboard for the same price of a large electric troller and batteries.

I would go with a smallish outboard, 15 - 35 hp.

Looking to keep costs down ????
Install a small bench seat across the back and set it up with a tiller motor instead of using a steering wheel.

Cost of replacing the steering helm, cable, engine controls, wiring, etc. can run $1000 or more.

Best to replace any damaged rivets, and maybe just seal the leaking rivets.
Seal interior of hull with GLUVIT, NOT silicone.

FIRST and foremost is to get the boat registered in your name before putting any work or money into it.

Not sure of your location/state, but you may need to register the trailer. And several states now require outboard motors to be registered as well.
So make sure all paperwork is in order before buying any motor.

Good luck and keep us up on your project.

 

[ARBoatGuy]

An update to the thread after a week of light work on my project boat.

I removed basically everything from the boat that wasn't aluminum, and it all needed to go, wires were just brittle and would break in your hands.

next I cleaned all the dust and gunk from the interior, leveled it, and filled it with water. After what I'd guess was about 80 gallons, 3 drips appeared from the bottom, I circled them in the photos. As the water filled out all the way to sides and rose in the interior, multiple leaks began to form along the side/bottom seams.

So, I drained the water, flipped it on it's side, and after making sure it was supported good and secure, I power washed the first 5 feet of the bottom, starting at the bow. (see photos)

Now I'm researching and brainstorming every possible way to repair, seal the bottom. reconstruct, weld or do whatever I can and hopes it's not a lost cause.

I've built houses, no experience with boats ever!, but this seems to be the foundation, I want to do everything I can to get it right.

would love to hear some ideas, no matter how unorthadox they are.

 

[82rude]

Instead of gluvit as suggested i would use fasco steelflex which as far as im concerned is superior and much cheaper.

 

[Lectro88]

I Really like the Fasco products if we're talking about the same people in Florida.
I have 6 gallons of Epo-Steel 103 LVX=means, low viscosity.(thin)
Was so impressed I bought another 3 gallon kit "Summer"/Slow set. and it is SLOW....
Gives you plenty of time to work, I mean hours, You think at first its not going to set.
Its also a very high impact resistant epoxy. (dents rather than shatters in a drop pin test)
They have a Fast cure version, but I like the penetration and work time of the slow.
FASCO is my Top Shelf epoxy.
I have 3 other brands/types of epoxy, (all good)
Including Total Boat 5;1, CPES also by TB And
a cheaper epoxy from Calif. 7000 or 8000 something don't fully remember.
Think its more of a hobby epoxy. its from "The resin store"
But again my Pick is Fasco. out of the 4.
By the way they blend their own products, and have a sister company.
These folks are helpful on the phone and will get you the product you need.
I can't help you with aluminum knowledge.
But this stuff is great for woven roven fiberglass, or penetrating wood.
Good Luck

 

[ARBoatGuy]

Instead of gluvit as suggested i would use fasco steelflex which as far as im concerned is superior and much cheaper.

thanks, I'll check it out,. Sashco "through the roof" has also been recommended to me, ever hear of anyone using that?

 

[ARBoatGuy]

I Really like the Fasco products if we're talking about the same people in Florida.
I have 6 gallons of Epo-Steel 103 LVX=means, low viscosity.(thin)
Was so impressed I bought another 3 gallon kit "Summer"/Slow set. and it is SLOW....
Gives you plenty of time to work, I mean hours, You think at first its not going to set.
Its also a very high impact resistant epoxy. (dents rather than shatters in a drop pin test)
They have a Fast cure version, but I like the penetration and work time of the slow.
FASCO is my Top Shelf epoxy.
I have 3 other brands/types of epoxy, (all good)
Including Total Boat 5;1, CPES also by TB And
a cheaper epoxy from Calif. 7000 or 8000 something don't fully remember.
Think its more of a hobby epoxy. its from "The resin store"
But again my Pick is Fasco. out of the 4.
By the way they blend their own products, and have a sister company.
These folks are helpful on the phone and will get you the product you need.
I can't help you with aluminum knowledge.
But this stuff is great for woven roven fiberglass, or penetrating wood.
Good Luck

very valuable info, thanks

 

[ARBoatGuy]

is this the stuff?

Fasco 103 LVX Epoxy Resin System - 3 Quart Kit (Slow Hardener) | eBay

103 LVX can be used on warehouse docks, floors, sidewalks, walls, and concrete. SLOW HARDENER. Mixes: 2:1 Ratio — Slow & Regular Hardener. and hardener gets mixed together. REGULAR HARDENER. Polyester Resin.

www.ebay.com

Is this what would be best for my project? (I DO like working at a slow pace)

right for my aluminum patching/sealing needs?

 

[Lectro88]

Thats what I use in 3 gallon kit.
Contact them directly. They will get the best product for your application.
I say that because you are working with aluminum. I have not used it for Alum.

 

[ARBoatGuy]

I used a gallon of Fasco's Flex steel, super slick # 9XN2000

It mixed up to a snotty type substance, I spread it over every seam and rivet in a thick coat. did it twice.

I found after the mixture sat for an hour or so, was thicker and easier to spread in specific spots with a putty knife.

I just put on a coat of paint, I hope to have it flipped back up right on the trailer by week's end.

 

[JimS123]

Let me just add a few comments to the mix. Everything already recommended is spot on.

I redid my tinny in 1986 and she is still in the fleet. I had no seam issues, just a few rivets and they sealed up fine with gluvit.

I'll guess the weight at about 1200#. Don't forget you got a cabin on top.

Looks like it had a single Evinrude or Johnson OB on it by the look of the control box. I don't think a tiller OB would be suitable. The cabin certainly will obstruct the forward view. It would have had an elevated seat at the helm so the operator's view would be thru the windshield.

You'll want to put some sort of flooring at least in the cockpit, and that will add more weight. Personally I would go with a 25-35 HP OB, propped to optimum rpm. For your usage that should be adequate, but of course it won't be a speed daemon. An electric trolling motor would not move that boat around very well.

If it were me I'd pound out the bump in the nose and then fair it out with Bondo. Once painted I think the dent would show up more.

Your trailer needs fenders to protect the new paint job.

Good luck with your endeavor. Sounds like a fun project.

 

[ARBoatGuy]

Let me just add a few comments to the mix. Everything already recommended is spot on.

I redid my tinny in 1986 and she is still in the fleet. I had no seam issues, just a few rivets and they sealed up fine with gluvit.

I'll guess the weight at about 1200#. Don't forget you got a cabin on top.

Looks like it had a single Evinrude or Johnson OB on it by the look of the control box. I don't think a tiller OB would be suitable. The cabin certainly will obstruct the forward view. It would have had an elevated seat at the helm so the operator's view would be thru the windshield.

You'll want to put some sort of flooring at least in the cockpit, and that will add more weight. Personally I would go with a 25-35 HP OB, propped to optimum rpm. For your usage that should be adequate, but of course it won't be a speed daemon. An electric trolling motor would not move that boat around very well.

If it were me I'd pound out the bump in the nose and then fair it out with Bondo. Once painted I think the dent would show up more.

Your trailer needs fenders to protect the new paint job.

Good luck with your endeavor. Sounds like a fun project.

thanks for the comments, helpful!

 

[MRS]

Kool boat! Almost looks like a lonestar boat my old fishing partner had, it was 21’ with a 175 merc on. Lots of great fishing trips on it to lake mead miss those trips and my friend. Good luck with yours.

 

[JimS123]

Kool boat! Almost looks like a lonestar boat my old fishing partner had, it was 21’ with a 175 merc on. Lots of great fishing trips on it to lake mead miss those trips and my friend. Good luck with yours.

Yes, looks like a Lonestar, but not 100%. I'm thinking SportsKraft made in TX.

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/a/a6/Sportskrafta57001.jpg