"Save The Manatee "

[gm280]

Thanks fs !
Got back from our trip .. Stayed at the Caribbean Beach resort at W/D ... Nice place !
Just resting my feet before being on them all day ..


So much to do and see down there but it will sure wear ya out !

Glad to be home ! Maybe a little boat work today ...

Sam, really nice and I'm lad you took the time to go. My problem with vacations are it basically ruins me. I mean I don't want to do anything when I get back. It takes me a real long time to get back into the routine and become anything but useless again...So I/we take so few and far between... But glad you enjoyed yourself... :thumb:

 

[sphelps]

Still working on the prep ... Getting closer to some finish !
Glad I paid attention to the Admirals cooking shows ... Like icing a cake ..

Really ready for this rain to stop ... Downpours every day ! The yard is a total mess ...

 

[nurseman]

Looking good Sam! Fill, sand, repeat.....

 

[gm280]

Still working on the prep ... Getting closer to some finish !
Glad I paid attention to the Admirals cooking shows ... Like icing a cake ..

Really ready for this rain to stop ... Downpours every day ! The yard is a total mess ...

Sam, what type filler are you using on the bottom hull? A PB mixture or auto body filler? If a PB mixture, how did you mix it and how hard is it to block sand? Going to be doing a lot of that soon myself.

 

[archbuilder]

Looks good Sam! Hard work on this step pays off for sure!

 

[Woodonglass]

Well Sam, are you using the Glass Bubble Recipe and if so how's it working for you??

 

[Decker83]

I remember doing all of this..
Looks great Sam..
Like archbuilder said ^^^ It will pay off..
Have a great weekend.. Hope the rain lets up for ya!!

 

[sphelps]

I'm using the glass bubble recipe only a little more glass bubbles. 500ml resin around 650 to 700 ml glass bubbles , 50ish ml cabosil , 5 ml mekp , and around 6 ml wax . Makes a full quart of filler .. Sanding with 100 grit and sometimes 60 on the lap marks . Block sanding should not be a problem . Thinking 80 grit would work great . H/F only has 40 grit for there long board so I need to try and find some less aggressive . I have cut a belt sanding pad and used it on the long board before ...

 

[Woodonglass]

WOW!! That's agressive sanding. I usually start with 150 and go to 220. If it's that hard to sand somethings not working right IMHO!!!

 

[gm280]

I'm using the glass bubble recipe only a little more glass bubbles. 500ml resin around 650 to 700 ml glass bubbles , 50ish ml cabosil , 5 ml mekp , and around 6 ml wax . Makes a full quart of filler .. Sanding with 100 grit and sometimes 60 on the lap marks . Block sanding should not be a problem . Thinking 80 grit would work great . H/F only has 40 grit for there long board so I need to try and find some less aggressive . I have cut a belt sanding pad and used it on the long board before ...

Sam, if you have any auto paint stores around you, they have both adhesive and non-adhesive backed rolls of sanding paper in all sorts of grits. And surprisingly they are not expensive. I have one roll that I think is either 220 or 320 that I have been using off of for quite some time. And I think it is 3" wide, but not certain. So you can take most any smooth long board, or even a piece of angle aluminum and make a long board sander quite easily. I have a jointer and made some custom 2 x 4 long boards and the sanding adhesive paper sticks to it perfectly and allows me to diagonal sand from each direction for a totally smooth finish. The jointer can flatten any board to a total flat smooth surface. A guide coat works great doing diagonal sanding also... JMHO!

 

[sphelps]

WOW!! That's agressive sanding. I usually start with 150 and go to 220. If it's that hard to sand somethings not working right IMHO!!!

It's not really sanding that hard . I'm using an r/o for most of it . Really 100 takes it down fairly well ... Just mixing it up til creamy and spreading it on .. Seems to be cured fine and no gumming up the paper ...
gm, There is a automotive paint store right across the street from the H/F store I go to ... Been wanting to stop in and see what they have anyway so I'll check them out soon . Gotta work late tomorrow and all weekend maybe I'll stop there Monday on my way home ..

 

[sphelps]

no gumming up the paper ..

Spoke too soon .. The stuff I put on last night is gumming up pretty bad .. Think it needs more time to dry .. Humidity down here REALLY high .. And been raining all day ... Actually standing in water around the boat .. Might should have used a little more g/b 's ..:cold:

 

[kcassells]

Ouch!

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, here's what I'd do. Increase the MEKP to 8ml.. .Wax to 10ml and thin with more Acetone or possibly a 50/50mix of Acetone and Mineral spirits to make it more creamy. The increase of mekp and acetone should help it "Flash" off a bit better with the humdity down there in Mickey Mouse Land!!!! Let me know how that works.

 

[nurseman]

You might try giving it a really good wash down with acetone before you try and sand if it is gumming up your paper. I did that on mine when I had trouble with it gumming up the paper and it seemed to work well.. But make sure it is cured all the way, or you will mess up the filler with the acetone. (don't ask me how I know that...:facepalm

 

[sphelps]

Thanks guys ! I, l'll give those idea's a shot ...

 

[gm280]

Sam, I'm not so sure I won't go with a high quality auto body type filler made for fiberglass (Corvettes) and be done with it. Seems there are some made with polyester and guaranteed not to crack of fall out. So sanding is very import to me, and sandpaper plugging is a total PIT?... I know I can produce a nice paint job, but only IF I can block sand the surface to make certain there are no waves and things like that. And being able to sand without plugging the paper is paramount to being able to accomplish that to me... Amazing how much serious flexing modern body fillers can take these days and not even try to crack and they mix and cure in minutes too... JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

Sam, I'm not so sure I won't go with a high quality auto body type filler made for fiberglass (Corvettes) and be done with it. Seems there are some made with polyester and guaranteed not to crack of fall out. So sanding is very import to me, and sandpaper plugging is a total PIT?... I know I can produce a nice paint job, but only IF I can block sand the surface to make certain there are no waves and things like that. And being able to sand without plugging the paper is paramount to being able to accomplish that to me... Amazing how much serious flexing modern body fillers can take these days and not even try to crack and they mix and cure in minutes too... JMHO!

You might want to re-think this. Autobody fillers are not designed and/or formulated for marine use. If you get a chip or scratch in the painted area where the filler has been used the filler will absorb water and cause problems. Almost every auto-body filler that I'm aware of uses talc for their base. I don't have issues with sanding and clogging when I make my filler, that's why I said something was wrong with Sam's mix. You can make your own using Marine products and acheive great results or you can buy fillers specifically designed for the marine environment. I would not recommend using Auto Body fillers on a Boat especially below the water line.

That's just One Old Dumb Okie's Opinion and worth every penney you paid for it!!!

 

[gm280]

You might want to re-think this. Autobody fillers are not designed and/or formulated for marine use. If you get a chip or scratch in the painted area where the filler has been used the filler will absorb water and cause problems. Almost every auto-body filler that I'm aware of uses talc for their base. I don't have issues with sanding and clogging when I make my filler, that's why I said something was wrong with Sam's mix. You can make your own using Marine products and acheive great results or you can buy fillers specifically designed for the marine environment. I would not recommend using Auto Body fillers on a Boat especially below the water line.

That's just One Old Dumb Okie's Opinion and worth every penney you paid for it!!!

Wood, I was referring to Marine grade fillers. Every auto body type company also makes Marine body fillers made for both above and below the water line. And they are totally compatible with fiberglass and polys as well. In fact they are made using polyester resins. Ever Coat and 3M I know make such Marine fillers. In fact they are actually sold here on iboats. But I will make certain that they are purposely made for such a job or I won't buy them. I haven't made my final decision, but experimenting with such things gets frustrating when they waste your time... JMHO! :noidea:

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, but they're called marine fillers. I used this...
before I started making my own. Another way to keep your paper from clogging when sanding your glass is to "Wet Sand" it with "Wet Water" (Water with a bit of Dish Soap in it"