Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

5200 for the S/W joint. It's not below the waterline, but a lot of water can get in there.

The cap is grounded to the tank for static electricity. Usually goes to one of the sender mounting screws.

The splash can't be too far away.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

5200 for the S/W joint. It's not below the waterline, but a lot of water can get in there.

The cap is grounded to the tank for static electricity. Usually goes to one of the sender mounting screws.

The splash can't be too far away.

Roger that on the 5200, GA. And thanks for the cap ground info...I'm glad I asked, 'cause that could be extremely scary/fatal.

Yeah, I may do a bare bones sea trial with just the power/safety essentials when I get my numbers...so, a couple of weeks, maybe? I'm pushin' as hard as I can while still having an actual job with income. Still lots of little stuff, but the stuff I need is all here now.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Just to add to my 40 question pile-up, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to put together a bottom track for the S/W sliders. I don't have the original dual channel piece, but I'm thinking JB Weld with a couple of 3/4" channel pieces bonded together. :noidea: Also, I've noticed that there are aluminum risers that go under that, and I'm assuming that they're square angle? I'm guessing that they're for drainage and allowing one to insert the doors. How are those risers fastened? Any traditional metal fastener would get in the way of the door's ability to move freely, so I'm kind of just wondering how the heck it all goes together.

Thanks.

EDIT: yeah, I just re-read this and realized that I could counter-sink the fasteners for the support pieces.

Hey look, I figured something out all by myself! Maybe...

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Do you have the top track under the front end of the S/W? Look at that to see what size you need. My sliders are 1/2" with a plastic U channel top and bottom that let the door slide easier. The door are also cut a little shorter so they don't bind in the tracks.

On mine the track lays on the floor carpet/vinyl with no spacer. The screw holes are countersunk so the screw heads are under the track surface. Use flat head screws.

Forget the JB, it won't help you. Get one U channel and one L. I would mount the U for the aft door. To fit it, put the top of a door in the upper track and the lower U on the bottom of the door and slid it aft until it's vertical. Don't screw it down yet. Then put the other door in the front of the upper track, slip the L channel under the door and slide it aft until it meets the U channel. Get it all lined up with the side supports and then screw it all down. I don't think you have to worry about drainage.

Does all that make any sense, Chem?

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Do you have the top track under the front end of the S/W? Look at that to see what size you need. My sliders are 1/2" with a plastic U channel top and bottom that let the door slide easier. The door are also cut a little shorter so they don't bind in the tracks.

On mine the track lays on the floor carpet/vinyl with no spacer. The screw holes are countersunk so the screw heads are under the track surface. Use flat head screws.

Forget the JB, it won't help you. Get one U channel and one L. I would mount the U for the aft door. To fit it, put the top of a door in the upper track and the lower U on the bottom of the door and slid it aft until it's vertical. Don't screw it down yet. Then put the other door in the front of the upper track, slip the L channel under the door and slide it aft until it meets the U channel. Get it all lined up with the side supports and then screw it all down. I don't think you have to worry about drainage.

Does all that make any sense, Chem?

Yeah, that makes a bunch of sense. I do have the top track, which is aluminum twin channel for 3/4" ply. So I'll just replicate that for the bottom with a C and and an L for 3/4", and countersink the screws.

Thanks man, that really helps. I guess if there's a tiny amount of vertical play in the top track, then I should be able to slide the forward bottom C channel piece into place.

...and yeah, drainage shouldn't be an issue with the deck set-up I have. Thanks again GA.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

You need the vertical play so the doors don't bind and so you can slide it all together. But not too much or the doors rock and stick or fall out. Using the L and C lets you do one door at a time. I fought doing two doors at the same time. One would fall out just as the other slid in. PITA!

In an earlier post I think you showed the side supports that go under the S/W and against the side tray. I put my supports even with the inside bent up edge of the tray and moved the lower track to match with the front of the support.

EDIT - I just noticed my avatar shows my doors. No detail and before I threw some new paint on them.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

In an earlier post I think you showed the side supports that go under the S/W and against the side tray. I put my supports even with the inside bent up edge of the tray and moved the lower track to match with the front of the support.

EDIT - I just noticed my avatar shows my doors. No detail and before I threw some new paint on them.

I just put the side supports in where the previous rivets had been. I have no idea if they're "true" with the rest of the surfaces. But, that much should at least get me sort of level, or within the tolerance range.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

You're good to go then. One step closer.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Dudes, I've got a boring fuel tank question. I've cleaned the tank inside and out, primed and painted the outside, and the interior of the tank looks remarkably pristine. I cleaned it several times to the point that it no longer smells of gas, and it's bone dry right now. No rust or corrosion at all...I used a mirror/flashlight to look all around.

So, this would be the perfect time to use the POR-15 sealer. But, I don't want to mess with something that ain't broke. Would you guys recommend just going with it as is? My concern is having the POR come off and get into the carb at some point in the future, and why risk it if my tank seems to be in good shape.

Thanks!

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Chem - My thoughts, if the tank is clean (ignoring stains and spots) with no loose rust, as you say pristine, I'd skip the POR. Mainly because there is the chance that no matter how clean it is, the stuff could get loose and foul the fuel system. That's why way back, when said you were going to POR, I said to gey that thing as clean as possible.

Save it for another tank.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Chem - My thoughts, if the tank is clean (ignoring stains and spots) with no loose rust, as you say pristine, I'd skip the POR. Mainly because there is the chance that no matter how clean it is, the stuff could get loose and foul the fuel system. That's why way back, when said you were going to POR, I said to gey that thing as clean as possible.

Save it for another tank.

Cool, thanks again, GA. I do remember your warnings about the stuff, which is why I'm wary of it, plus there's no way with my tank to drain all the excess, so I'm calling it good to go.

I should at least have the fuel system/lines ready to go today, maybe my battery switch.

Cheers.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Cool, thanks again, GA. I do remember your warnings about the stuff, which is why I'm wary of it, plus there's no way with my tank to drain all the excess, so I'm calling it good to go.

I should at least have the fuel system/lines ready to go today, maybe my battery switch.

Cheers.

It's one of the best tank liners, but the prep is a bear. And it sounds like you have a good tank. IF you had crusties inside, go for it.

How did you do with the slider tracks? Wow, that sounds like the aftermath of fine dining at White Castle. :faint2:

 

[classiccat]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

How did you do with the slider tracks? Wow, that sounds like the aftermath of fine dining at White Castle. :faint2:

:facepalm:

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Wow is right....

I'm not quite there yet, GA, as I want to get the fuel tank assembly and battery tie downs/wiring done before I restrict access under there.

Fuel tank, new electric sending unit, fill hose, vent hose, and new vent are all in. I just need some hose clamps so I can rig the fuel line and in-line filter and primer bulb. Its the little things like hose clamps that are responsible for the majority of my 700 trips to Lowes. I'm going to use the factory fitting that goes through the port splashwell, and just have one line, as both OBs are OMC, and I can just switch the line to whichever I'm about to run.

I need to figure out another tie down mount, as I wasn't really thinking when I cut the bilge access...there's nothing on the aft side to drill into on the tank's starboard :facepalm::

That plywood on the vertical part of the S/W will be the battery switch mount when the adhesive cures.

EDIT: You can't tell in the pic, but I did use rubber strips under the tank. And I may just go into the transom for the tie down, as the tank can't move aft any more than it is.

PS: I guess I've never had an OB boat with quality fuel line...this stuff I ordered is super thick and nice. I also figured this is a bad place to mess around with cheap crap. I'm really looking forward to not dealing with 6 gallon portable jobs.

 

[Traxx]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

GA why?
Chem, looking good.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

GA why?
Chem, looking good.

Thanks man...I've been following your transom mystery over in the SC forum. Nice rig!

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Chem - could you make an "L" with a couple of wood pieces or some AL L channel at the tank corner #1? With the strap and an "L", it won't slide forward or to the left. Did you put some rubber strips at #2? I looks like the tank is against the splashwell. It's nice and clean in the basement.

[URL=http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/sv29n/media/Cheap%20boats/chemtank.jpg.html] [/URL]

Traxx - Explaining "slider traxx" is against the rules of this fine, family-oriented forum. :lol: "They slide right in and they slide right out" :watermelon:

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

^^^That's a great idea. I was just thinking about padding the splashwell corner, too. Yep, that'll work fine.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

GA Boater, you're a gentleman and a scholar. The tank is rock solid now, and as a bonus the spare vent hose between the S/W and tank doubles as a reinforcement should anyone (me) accidentally walk on the outboard well. Yeah, the hose ain't factory or pretty, but it works.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

BTW, I'm really happy with the S/W and tank set-up. An extra foot of deck space would be great, but my tank is accessible, the whole bilge is full of foam, and I'm not going to trash the well by stepping on it. Plus, way easier for this hack than a belly tank.