Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

[jigngrub]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

I prefer a 120 grit for sanding epoxy, if the 60-80 grit proves to be too aggressive you may want to step up to 100 or 120.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

I'll keep that in mind, jig. I have some of the rough stuff (60 I think) in the shed, so I'll see how that works first.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

All my frettin' over the smoothness of the epoxy was pretty much for naught, as the Nautolex does a great job of hiding minor imperfections.

New boat smell:

This will all lay down nice and flat once I fasten the panels:

Transom ain't perfect, but it's well sealed and solid:

So I guess next on my list is: fasten deck panels, ss transom bolts, rip side panels, paint side panels, bulkheads, and exposed transom wood, then on to wiring and fuel tank install. My tank's insides look great and no leaks, so I'm debating whether or not I'll use the POR 15. Gotta paint the outside, though.

EDIT: ...and I forgot, I still have to fab the console. I'm a little nervous about that, but I've got plenty of plywood scrap.

Just a little thinking out loud here: I'm going to use "L" channel trim for the bottom of the side panels, and I'm thinking that they could also tie the deck panels together with well spaced rivets. That way I could just have the seam in the deck without a "t" channel between the panels. Bad idea? The panels will all be riveted to stringers and rib ends, and they line up real nice with no crooked gaps.

BTW, the Nautolex is great and was a super easy process. I used the Weldwood contact cement.

Hope y'all are having an excellent weekend.

PS: Pretty sure I'm gonna watch my target splash date of Memorial Day weekend pass by with a bunch more to do. Mid-June? Maybe.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Oh yeah, more thinking out loud: for my battery switch and fuel filter/separator, I was kinda thinking about using some adhesive to stick a couple of plywood mounts to the semi-vertical part of the splashwell interior. Thoughts?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Really am liking the look of that Nautolex...nice job!
As far as adhesives, we use 2 part structural adhesives in the collision industry to glue body panels, such as door skins and quarter panels to the sub structure...
We use several different ones depending on the actual application...once cured these are recommended and rated by the automotive manufacturer to be as strong or stronger than welding.
Here is a link to one of the many 3M structural adhesive products...there is a link on the right side that you can "chat" with them about your specific needs...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Thanks GT, but got the link?

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Really am liking the look of that Nautolex...nice job!
As far as adhesives, we use 2 part structural adhesives in the collision industry to glue body panels, such as door skins and quarter panels to the sub structure...
We use several different ones depending on the actual application...once cured these are recommended and rated by the automotive manufacturer to be as strong or stronger than welding.
Here is a link to one of the many 3M structural adhesive products...there is a link on the right side that you can "chat" with them about your specific needs...

GT, thanks for the adhesive info....but I was just gonna use PL or something similar. I wasn't very clear, but what I was wondering is if anyone with one of these old Starcraft splashwells could tell me where they put the fuel filter and battery switch. This boat came as a gutted tub with a bunch of parts in it.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Thanks GT, but got the link?

Ooooops! sorry...
??Structural Adhesives

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

**Structural Adhesives

Carp, if you can't find an adhesive there to bind whatever you want bonded to whatever you need it bonded to, it doesn't need to be bonded...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Carp, if you can't find an adhesive there to bind whatever you want bonded to whatever you need it bonded to, it doesn't need to be bonded...

Oh so true...:lol:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Just a little thinking out loud here: I'm going to use "L" channel trim for the bottom of the side panels, and I'm thinking that they could also tie the deck panels together with well spaced rivets. That way I could just have the seam in the deck without a "t" channel between the panels. Bad idea? The panels will all be riveted to stringers and rib ends, and they line up real nice with no crooked gaps.

BTW, the Nautolex is great and was a super easy process. I used the Weldwood contact cement.

Nyet, nyet, nyet!!!

I don't think this is going to be good when the decking is fastened down VVVVVVV

Considering your deck framing with the fore to aft stringer configuration and nothing solid to fasten the edges of the joints to you only have 2 good choices (there is another choice or 2 ,but I wouldn't even use them on a chicken coop).

#1. Install additional framing below deck (aluminum angle) to fasten the joints to. both sides of the joint. (Best)... and you don't have to use the "T" if you don't want to.

#2. Make your own "Tees" out of 3/4"x3/4"x1/8" or you may even be able to get away with 1/16" thick aluminum angle to fasten the joints together with.



Install first angle to joint edge using #8x1" or 3/4" SS countersunk screws, install second angle to first angle with the same size screws.

Fasten piece of decking without angles to deck framing. Slide deck piece with angles up tight to first piece of decking and fasten to deck framing.

Drill holes through top of angles and use rivets to fasten decking to angles, this will pull the decking up tight to the angle and give you a nice smooth uniform joint like this:

I had framing under this joint but still did it as described above for a "trimmed out" look.

If you don't do something like what's described above your joints are going to look like caca-doo doo and you'll probably end up taking it back apart and doing one of the 2 suggestions above.

Not trying to be critical, just trying to help.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

OK jig, so I'll definitely use the angle, as there's no framing underneath the seams.

...and that's why I asked

PS: Your work is really nice, man. That looks totally pro.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

PS: Your work is really nice, man. That looks totally pro.

Thanks for the compliment Bubba, I try hard...




... to cover my sins.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Not trying to be critical, just trying to help.

...and this goes without saying. I very much appreciate all the help. Thanks. The process you provided for fitting the deck pieces with/without angle couldn't be more simple and comprehensive.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

CW,

Check-in! Your labor status report is past due and your thread has slipped back to page 10 of the archives... you been slackin'?

I don't want to hear any "It snowed in May in Vermont" BS excuses, I wanna see progress and the results of said progress!

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Ha ha...sorry, no photos dude......BUT, I did install the "t" pieces as you described, and, while they're likely not up to your personal boat standards, I'm pretty happy with the deck. It's all fastened and ready for side panels. That worked out well.

The boat's on the trailer, too. I need to spend a little time getting the bunks right (I need to find cedar 2x6's, or just wrap carpet around some pine stuff, 'cause the 2x4's won't work with the bunk hardware I have...too narrow to support the hull). Bilge pump is in, splashwell will go in after I paint the primed transom. Bulkheads are primed and ready for paint.

Still left to do:

-Fabricate console

-Trailer wiring

-Boat wiring and gauges

-Paint fuel tank, install sending unit for gauge

-Steering

-Mount outboards

-Finally get the top windshield installed...waiting on this as I need clearance under a tree limb to get the OB on.

-Give VT a bunch of money for an assigned number and registration sticker.

-Get a truck...yeah, I'm gonna do it. I don't want to mess up an almost new Subee transmission. I've got a line on a Silverado regular cab with 115K for 3 grand.

It's still a bunch of stuff to do, but I'm getting close.

I'll post some pics tomorrow. Figured I'd have some stuff worthy of posting before putting pics up. Thanks for checkin' in!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Just razzin' ya a little CW

I figured you were workin' on it.

Use regular pine 2x6s for the bunks and seal them like you did the decking before carpeting, it's a real bummer when you break a bunk loading the boat on the trailer.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

^^^Yeah, that may be a spar varnish job, cause I'm out of epoxy and don't really want to order more. I was going to stain and varnish the smaller trim pieces, too. Maybe the console and splashwell sliders if I don't hack 'em, which is highly probable. Rusto oil if I do.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

Alright, a couple of days late on my status report/pics, but this thing is starting to look like a boat.

She's on the trailer, 2x6 bunks are in the process of getting varnished. Any problem just leaving them bare wood with 3 coats of spar?

Transom is done, except for the outboard mounting holes. The messed up cap actually went on pretty clean. I'm very happy I didn't have to try one of my own half-assed fabrications for this:

I still haven't sealed the splashwell seams...silicone? 5200?

Under the 'well:

I went with ss screws with finish washers for the fasteners, rivets for the joiner trim. My 3/4" rivets wouldn't go through the 5/8" with nautolex and the stringers/ribs. #8 ss worked great, though. It's totally solid, and the foam squeaks are gone now.

Some more of my bad painting...hey, it's a fishing boat, right? And now I have a second shed in the cuddy, complete with BFH and the boat re-builder's best friend, the weighted BFRM (that's rubber mallet, of course).

I'm getting excited to get 'er in the water soon.

Have an awesome weekend, folks. Cheers.

 

[laurentide]

Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

I meant to post this one with my question about the splashwell sealant:

...and one more question: my fuel fill cap assembly has what looks to be a ground lead attached, and I think(?) it was grounded(?) to the tank? Is this a safety feature that I'm not aware of?

That's a lot of question marks.