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Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Just caught up man. Don't feel bad about the mini boat yard. Mine is looking like a full blown boat salvage yard. Got parts and boats everywhere. And my basment, lol. I will keep following your progress
Just a boring technical question for those who've brushed metal primer: I most definitely have to sand, probably wet sand with a fine sponge, but should I just avoid hitting the rivets at all? My obvious concern is with taking the primer off the rivet heads
How much do you really 'need' to sand to remove the brush strokes & runs? Generally MOST of the primer has brush marks, or just some of it? Lots of runs or just a few?
These come in ultrafine, fine, medium, these are ultrafine:
Use them wet (w/ a LITTLE dish soap in the water) & just scuff the primer in most places, if you can still see/feel the run &/or brush marks, go a tad more aggressive w/ the wet sanding. Don't press down as you cross over the rivets.
A 20oz plastic bottle w/ a small hole or 2 in the lid works great for keeping the work surface wet & rinsing off the sanded area...
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Have you considered using the Roll n' Roll method using the Ultra Fine foam rollers. You can get an almost Spray on look finish using them. this link has some good info for you..."Paint Your Boat for Under $100 Bucks...Well Almost"
The cycoanalates are nasty but IMHO it takes a lot of airborne inhalation or direct skin exposure for them to cause major health issue. If you Wear a good respirator and gloves during your painting endeavors I would think you would be fine. Again this is just my NON-Professional opinion based on my research on the subject.
Have you considered using the Roll n' Roll method using the Ultra Fine foam rollers. You can get an almost Spray on look finish using them. this link has some good info for you..."Paint Your Boat for Under $100 Bucks...Well Almost"
The cycoanalates are nasty but IMHO it takes a lot of airborne inhalation or direct skin exposure for them to cause major health issue. If you Wear a good respirator and gloves during your painting endeavors I would think you would be fine. Again this is just my NON-Professional opinion based on my research on the subject.
Wood, yeah, thanks...I was planning to do a roll/roll or roll/tip, based on your thread link. I hear ya' on the exposure level on the hardener, and I keep going back and forth on it. If I do use it (even after all my bad-mouthing of the product) I'll get new filters and cover up.
So you would recommend roll/roll over roll/tip? I've never tried either method. Thanks for the info.
I just got home from work to a big brown box from US Composites on my front porch. :eagerness:
JB Curt, I just did a little test run with the "between coats" 3M pad, and they're gonna work great. Thanks.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Yeah, lakelover did the roll n' roll on his Starcraft Jet tinny and it turned out GREAT. He used EasyPoxy w/Hardener. That link of mine has a link inside to a video that shows how to do the roll n' Roll. It really is easy and works really well.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Awesome, thanks WOG, I'm gonna go for it then with the roll/roll technique, probably on Saturday, which looks to feature ideal painting conditions here.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
The best thing I can tell you about roll n' roll is to Listen! When it sounds sticky... Stop rolling and then do the Very LIGHT re-Roll. It will lay down smooth. You will be amazed. If the temps get over 70? Use a 50/50 mix of Mineral Spirits and Acetone. It will lay down and level out much better.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
^^^Sounds like a plan, wood. Thanks for the advice. Any tips for "cutting in" harder to reach areas? Just cut in with a brush and then try to hit that with the re-roll?
EDIT: I'd be keeping all three, roller, roller, brush, in separate plastic bags, and cutting in as I go, not all at once.
Just caught up man. Don't feel bad about the mini boat yard. Mine is looking like a full blown boat salvage yard. Got parts and boats everywhere. And my basment, lol. I will keep following your progress
Haha...yeah, I'm about to put my stripped down tandem trailer out on the street with a "free" sign, which will considerably improve my backyard trash factor. We get scrappers driving through the neighborhood all the time.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Hey cw, lets us know how he roll,and roll works. I'm going to try the hvlp gun. I will practice on my trailer first. Might change techniques if it easier your way
Hey cw, lets us know how he roll,and roll works. I'm going to try the hvlp gun. I will practice on my trailer first. Might change techniques if it easier your way
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Chem - On that tank sealer, clean the tank, clean the tank and when you think it's clean, clean it again. The POR 15 sealer is good, but it's only as good as the prep. If it starts coming off, it's a mess in the fuel system.
Chem - On that tank sealer, clean the tank, clean the tank and when you think it's clean, clean it again. The POR 15 sealer is good, but it's only as good as the prep. If it starts coming off, it's a mess in the fuel system.
Re: Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild
Chem - I would get some of the Marine-Clean. It's solvent that breaks down sludge and de-greases, very important. The Prep & Ready is equivalent to self etching primer for the tank. It gives the tooth for the sealer to stick to.
Marine clean can be bought from POR for $23/gal. You might find it cheaper searching with Google.
How big is you tank? The mind is failing. :faint2:
I'll trade you my free advice for that awesome wheel. Deal?
):
