Restoring 1988 19’ bayliner capri

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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Hi all, I’m looking for some help and guidance. I just purchased a my first project boat. Got it for pretty cheap knowing it was gonna need a bit of work. I’ve started to tear out the flooring and removed some of the boxes so far. The transom, stringers and floor all need replaced. I’ve been reading quite a few forums and gaining quite a bit of knowledge. Im not sure the best way to removed these seats and boxes. I can see they are tied in with the hull on one side and don’t know the best way to cut them out. Also I saw another guys forum, I read all the way through who I thought did a really good job, and he removed the entire cap in order to do the transom. I’m am trying not to do that as I don’t really have a way to hold its shape and I would rather not risk it. I was thinking of cutting the cap around where the black paint marker line is, that way I can access the entire transom and then afterward I can just glass it back together? I’m planning on doing the transom first. And I’m also going to get a compact circular saw to cut the rest of the floor better. I’ve been using a oscillating tool and it works really good on wood that is already rotted, but the farther up the towards the front I go it’s just cutting good wood that is just aged on top so I’m assuming it would be a more efficient way to go about it.
 

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alldodge

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Welcome
Not seeing enough of the boat (pics to close up) to provide thoughts of wear to cut. Some have cut the top just in front of the stern and removed that part. Can glass in back in later

The seats should fold out and make a bed. Forward seat slides forward and Stern slide aft. As they slide you should be able to get under them to unbolt
 

The Force power

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Feb 3, 2019
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Just a word of advise.......
Please, please check out the condition of the motor first to see if this is all worth it???
Remember.....this particular boat (and so many other) with a bad motor are only worth the value of the trailer its sitting on.
 

todhunter

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Sep 15, 2020
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Is your boat on a bunk trailer or roller trailer? If it's a bunk trailer, you can probably get away with leaving it on the trailer, pulling the cap, and just taking width measurements to make sure the hull is in shape before you do each structural glassing session. I originally wanted to cut the cap, but I didn't. I think in retrospect it would have been a lot more work (glassing, fairing, and gelcoat matching) to cut out a portion.

A circular saw is good for cutting out big chunks, but be careful about depth and pay attention to where you are at so you don't cut through the hull. The oscillating multi-tool is superior for precision demo work, IMO.
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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Welcome
Not seeing enough of the boat (pics to close up) to provide thoughts of wear to cut. Some have cut the top just in front of the stern and removed that part. Can glass in back in later

The seats should fold out and make a bed. Forward seat slides forward and Stern slide aft. As they slide you should be able to get under them to unbolt
Okay, it’s been kinda cruddy weather this week so I haven’t gotten a chance to work on it. But today I’m going to go out and get the seats off, so thank you for the advise, and a little bit more demo in the floor. Then later tonight I will be getting my engine hoist so I can pull the engine off maybe tomorrow and get some better pictures not so close up
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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Didn’t get a whole lot done this weekend, ended up helping a buddy move. I did get the 2 seat boxes out behind the consoles, and the rear seat boxes as well. Is there any recommendation on a better way to get the foam out though. I think I spent most of my time getting foam out of the way to make cuts. I’ve been using a 4” metal putty knife which I think works pretty good but just wondering if there is something that would work better?
 

froggy1150

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 3, 2017
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I used all kinds of things including a trenching shovel and pickaxe. Whatever works. I had good access and dug ditches for years as a kid so I was quite surgical with a pic
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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i use a cup brush to turn the foam into powder AND it cleans the fiberglass. then I simply vacuum it up.
 

lgaytan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 15, 2015
Messages
106
I used seacast https://www.transomrepair.net/ to repair the transom of my 1989 Bayliner Capri 1750, it was pretty simple and the transom now is rock solid I don't see it failling again soon.
I suggest same as "The Force Power" mentioned, work in your motor first to know if all this work is worth, I have now my bayliner with a bulletproof transom but a completelly torn down motor... I'm already in this so I will continue working on it but maybe if I had this information 6 years ago I would't had started at all.

good luck
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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I used seacast https://www.transomrepair.net/ to repair the transom of my 1989 Bayliner Capri 1750, it was pretty simple and the transom now is rock solid I don't see it failling again soon.
I suggest same as "The Force Power" mentioned, work in your motor first to know if all this work is worth, I have now my bayliner with a bulletproof transom but a completelly torn down motor... I'm already in this so I will continue working on it but maybe if I had this information 6 years ago I would't had started at all.

good luck
The engine is good, and I’ve seen a little about the seacast. How much did you end up needing? Did you do stringers that way too? I planned on redoing the transom using woodonglass’s repair sheets I’ve seen on here. And then I’ve seen where people have cut the top cap of the stringers off and dug out all the rotten old wood and put new wood in and then glassed over everything. Has anyone fixed them that way?
 

flashback

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IMHO cutting just the cap of a stringer and digging it out then fitting a new one in would be tedious and time consuming, not to mention the bond may be questionable. I would consider taking all but an inch out so you have a bit of a guide.
 

lgaytan

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Jul 15, 2015
Messages
106
The engine is good, and I’ve seen a little about the seacast. How much did you end up needing? Did you do stringers that way too? I planned on redoing the transom using woodonglass’s repair sheets I’ve seen on here. And then I’ve seen where people have cut the top cap of the stringers off and dug out all the rotten old wood and put new wood in and then glassed over everything. Has anyone fixed them that way?
I used only one bucket and had some left over, the transom for my Bayliner is very small, actually the lady from transomrepair.net takes this seriously and gave me a call to confirm the volume needed, they will not sell you if you are planning to do partial repairs... the stringers were in good condition so I didn't change or did anything to them.
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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Yeah mine
I used only one bucket and had some left over, the transom for my Bayliner is very small, actually the lady from transomrepair.net takes this seriously and gave me a call to confirm the volume needed, they will not sell you if you are planning to do partial repairs... the stringers were in good condition so I didn't change or did anything to them.
Yeah mine has the small transom too, so thank you I’ll have to do some thinking about that
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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IMHO cutting just the cap of a stringer and digging it out then fitting a new one in would be tedious and time consuming, not to mention the bond may be questionable. I would consider taking all but an inch out so you have a bit of a guide.
That’s not a bad idea. I might go that route instead
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Anyway forget the saving the fiberglass sides after being gutted. Ply just doesn't go back in the right way. Usually creates voids as mentioned. Additionally, I have found ply strips under glass stringers called strakes and they were rotted.
Cut flush or at most leave 1/4" for new stringer placement as a guide.
 

Acamper88

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Feb 24, 2024
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I used only one bucket and had some left over, the transom for my Bayliner is very small, actually the lady from transomrepair.net takes this seriously and gave me a call to confirm the volume needed, they will not sell you if you are planning to do partial repairs... the stringers were in good condition so I didn't change or did anything to them.
How did you end up doing the drain for the poor, did you just put in a brass tube?
 
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