I think it's supposed to like 800RPM idle in gear in the water.
You're at the bottom end of the RPM range. However, we're you pretty well loaded up? You should be propped to be around 5k WOT with your typical load. If it's usually going to be lighter than it was, I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise you may consider dropping a pitch in the future. Take it out again and kick the idle up a bit. If it's still conking out on you repeatedly, take it back to the shop.
If the fast idle was bringing it up, then I would just turn the idle screw in a little and see what it does. I also think you should put the 15p prop on now, running at the low end of the rpm range at WOT is another way to create that deadly lean condition.
The boat looks great, enjoy.
You hurt my head with your CM reference and then I remembered what you do for a living. I went and asked my better half (a nurse) and at the same time remembered that a CM is 100 millimeters so... .394 in American. Moving the lever almost a half inch could give you a 1000 rpm boost. Lifting the lever just moves the throttle cable forward about 1 inch or so. It opens the throttle some and advances the timing. Once you get the idle set right you won't have to mess with lever except when cold starting (hopefully). My old 55 starts almost every time with no idle advance and just a touch of choke. My 70 is more like your motor with a primer instead of choke. I hit the primer a couple of times and turn the key on that and it starts without any fast idle. As previously stated, (I think) your idle should be 800 rpm in reverse, but 900 or so in neutral is fine.
You've got the second part right on. The shifter should "pop" the motor into gear with no grinding and then with very litle additional forward movement the throttle should start to respond. The same would be perfect in reverse, but most importantly the shift should be crisp and without grinding and the throttle should not respond until the shift is complete.
You hole shot will improve with the 15 and with the motor running out to the higher RPM your top end should stay the same.
Post up a photo of what you are working on there. I'm certain the guys over on the trailer forum can help ya.
Hey, your new avatar is awesome
I think these:
are designed to be pressed into an unthreaded hole that then grips the ridges in the slightly larger diameter section directly under the 'head' of that bolt.
I don't think you should try & thread them into the hole for the other style bolts:
Isn't this place in Conway? Do they carry them?
Or some of these trailer places? Napa? Or an auto recycling yard. << Short term fix unless they are the nicest lug bolts to come out of a junk yard, ever. Then swap the axle/hubs for new/better when you can.
And I thought I was overdoing it when I spent $150 to repaint my '88 Sea Nymph Fishing Machine...
Congrats on getting her out piece!! 4 years to perfect your boat aint so bad!