Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)
Piece, the fuel charge on 2 strokes is the lube and to a certain extent a coolant for the engine. When you get a cylinder that is not getting fuel it loses the lube and cooling benefits the charge provides. This can lead to the cylinder wall drying out and scoring or the piston not cooling from momentary contact with the fuel and melting. The pee stream would not necessarily get hot or even warm while these very bad things were happening. That's why it is important to make sure you have good fuel flow to both carbs before you run the motor much.
For all we know it is running fine and I just can't hear right anymore. Do the plug wire test and hopefully it bogs down evenly with each wire off. If that's the case go for the trial run.
If you find out that one carb isn't letting fuel flow properly, please take the time to pull them both off and clean them. They come off linkage and all I'm pretty sure, and the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly are pretty simple and straightforward.
If you have to pull them get yourself a clean, dry, well lighted 3'x3' surface and just lay the parts out as you take them off, and then put it all back together in reverse order. Make sure you blow out all the little orifices in the carbs and that the floats are back together with the valves in the right location. Do a youtube search, I think there is an OMC carb rebuild video there. The ones in the video are larger than yours but it is basically the same task.
A rebuild is better, but a good cleaning usually will fix most issues. I don't pop out the little aluminum caps to look under them, but clean every other orifice. Canned air for computers will work if you don't have compressor air.
Piece, no primer solenoids at my friends shop, he says they fly out the door as soon as he gets them. I hope the wire or bigger screw trick works.
There are a few on ebay, $60 to $80 buy it nows.
Piece, the fuel charge on 2 strokes is the lube and to a certain extent a coolant for the engine. When you get a cylinder that is not getting fuel it loses the lube and cooling benefits the charge provides. This can lead to the cylinder wall drying out and scoring or the piston not cooling from momentary contact with the fuel and melting. The pee stream would not necessarily get hot or even warm while these very bad things were happening. That's why it is important to make sure you have good fuel flow to both carbs before you run the motor much.
For all we know it is running fine and I just can't hear right anymore. Do the plug wire test and hopefully it bogs down evenly with each wire off. If that's the case go for the trial run.
If you find out that one carb isn't letting fuel flow properly, please take the time to pull them both off and clean them. They come off linkage and all I'm pretty sure, and the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly are pretty simple and straightforward.
If you have to pull them get yourself a clean, dry, well lighted 3'x3' surface and just lay the parts out as you take them off, and then put it all back together in reverse order. Make sure you blow out all the little orifices in the carbs and that the floats are back together with the valves in the right location. Do a youtube search, I think there is an OMC carb rebuild video there. The ones in the video are larger than yours but it is basically the same task.
A rebuild is better, but a good cleaning usually will fix most issues. I don't pop out the little aluminum caps to look under them, but clean every other orifice. Canned air for computers will work if you don't have compressor air.
Piece, no primer solenoids at my friends shop, he says they fly out the door as soon as he gets them. I hope the wire or bigger screw trick works.
There are a few on ebay, $60 to $80 buy it nows.
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