Replacing U-joints Alpha one gen 1

[thedinz]

Going to do this project, i did what many of us do and watched many youtube videos and for the most part I'm ready to go but with many things the video vary in what they show you vs what they only tell you.

One video, seemed pretty in depth the guy said (and actually did this) cut a tooth on each side of the u joint assembly in order to be able to get the c-clamp press on each side of the u-joint closest to said teeth.

This is not something i am interested in doing and insist there must be better way though, i found no such video showing me any other way.

 

[ScottinAZ]

ok, I consulted the factory manual for my drive, (1980 MC-1) SM#4, pages 3A-14-3A-15.

the book just states to use a universal joint remover/installation tool mounted in a vice. They do not elaborate on the type, so I ASSUME they are using a standard commercial c-clamp style tool. They do not mention clearancing anything to access the caps. Depending on your tool, you MAY need to get some added clearance to fit the tool over the cap. I would think that is what the Youtuber was doing in his video. As with most things, Your Mileage May Vary, depending on the exact tool being used.

 

[nola mike]

I have found a hammer to be much easier than a clamp/press on these

 

[chs marine service]

if changing the u joints closest to the housing, most times, yes, you have to cut the retainer, just enough to clear the caps, a simple angle sut will be enough to get the job done, if not, the chances are you will end up breaking one of the tabs off when pressing the caps out.

 

[KJM]

As for the U-joints themselves, I used automotive u-joints instead of marine. They were much cheaper and should never see water anyway. Worked fine on a pre alpha drive.

 

[thedinz]

if changing the u joints closest to the housing, most times, yes, you have to cut the retainer, just enough to clear the caps, a simple angle sut will be enough to get the job done, if not, the chances are you will end up breaking one of the tabs off when pressing the caps out.

Seems so crazy, so there is no way to do it properly? Is there perhaps a special tool people just choose not to buy?

 

[Scott06]

Seems so crazy, so there is no way to do it properly? Is there perhaps a special tool people just choose not to buy?

Not sure what is in manual but you can remove the nut vs chamfering it .

There was a post on here where someone said they could get it with out notching you can look for it. Didn’t involve any special tools
Here is a video on a gen 2

Either chamfer it or not your call, I don’t care either way but last time I did a gen 1 I could not see any other way without removing the nut

Either way a moog 315g u joint is the aftermarket equivalent no such thing as a marine u joint

 

[chs marine service]

Seems so crazy, so there is no way to do it properly? Is there perhaps a special tool people just choose not to buy?

yes, to do it properly, the manual instructs you to remove the input shaft assy and break it down, removing the yoke from the bearings , etc.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Seems so crazy, so there is no way to do it properly? Is there perhaps a special tool people just choose not to buy?

If only Mercruiser had a manual...... Wait.....they do

Mercury Marine Parts Accessories and Manuals

 

[Dubed]

Not sure what is in manual but you can remove the nut vs chamfering it .

There was a post on here where someone said they could get it with out notching you can look for it. Didn’t involve any special tools
Here is a video on a gen 2

Either chamfer it or not your call, I don’t care either way but last time I did a gen 1 I could not see any other way without removing the nut

Either way a moog 315g u joint is the aftermarket equivalent no such thing as a marine u joint

I removed mine without notching, no problem, Alpha one, gen one

 

[tank1949]

Seems so crazy, so there is no way to do it properly? Is there perhaps a special tool people just choose not to buy?

You might be able to get an auto ball joint removal tool to work.

 

[thedinz]

yes, to do it properly, the manual instructs you to remove the input shaft assy and break it down, removing the yoke from the bearings , etc.....

I did see a video on this, and the tool is $90 which i think is worth it, i think ill go this route, i believe what i heard is once you remove the u joint assemble from the outdrive there is a seal in there you now have to replace, so it will add that to the job but i just feel like its the right way to do it, could be wrong.

 

[chs marine service]

yes, not only the seal, you have to break down the bearing/yoke assy. perform a rolling torque on the bearings, replace the lock nut, it is so much easier and accepted practice
to just trim 2 of the tabs.

 

[thedinz]

yes, not only the seal, you have to break down the bearing/yoke assy. perform a rolling torque on the bearings, replace the lock nut, it is so much easier and accepted practice
to just trim 2 of the tabs.

I have no idea it was accepted practice, in that case....

There is still a video posted in this thread on how to get it out without breaking the tabs, ill probably at least try that first.

I assume a boat yard isnt cutting tabs, probably why they charge so much LOL

 

[thedinz]

Not to ressurect an old thread but did th is job this spring, it was a bit of a pain at least for a first timer, did have to break teeth, actually did NOT do it on purpose it was a mistake and side effect but I can say that i would not have been able to do it without removing a tooth, i got them out fine. But trying to press the ujoint back in with the teeth was just not possible. For me at least.

That being said, feels good to have got it done.

 

[Scott Danforth]

It's your thread.... You can post as often as you want and when you want