Replacing Keel rollers

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Started removing the ubolts at the center 2 bunks. Would have been easier if the bunk boards were removed. I wanted to do the boards after I got the ubolts in place though. I could only get small turns with my torque wrench so as it was hitting the bunk boards.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240210_220255620.jpg
    PXL_20240210_220255620.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 15

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,564
I would use the electric burp gun unless I had the compressor running.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
@Chris1956 Let me borrow your back then. I was using breaker bar but I can get a turn on the breaker bar. I been using the torque wrench and ratchet.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240211_193011268.jpg
    PXL_20240211_193011268.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 8

rxl650

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
75
Cut the bunks back to get better access? I'd carefully nip off the ubolts with an angle grinder if you need to. My wife and I flipped my trailer over onto crates after removing the winch tower and guides. Aluminum trailer and smaller though.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
@rxl650 @dingbat Yeah I realized that on Saturday that I need to cut the bunks off. I did not want to remove them from the middle until I got all the ubolts on the center bunks. That was my plan but it sucked.
I measured the angle of the center boards. I will just remove the swivel brackets and pull the whole board and brackets up since I am not using the brackets again. The swivel brackets are starting to split in layers. I thought I would be able to clean up but glad I bought some.

Once those boards are removed it should be a breeze. I may put 2 axels on this thing. That torsion arms has me suspicious.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Got the 2 starboard side boards and swivels removed. Started wire brushing the removal area and now ready for some paint. I measured the boards angle before removing @ 20 degrees my hull is @ 18 degrees. The swivel was so rusted that I did not need a wrench on the other end to remove. I will set @ 20 and leave. Then loosen them when the boat is on the trailer to adjust then re-torque. Hope this will be a game changer for me loading this boat back on the trailer!
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
This may be a dumb question but I need to ask. I test fit on board over top of the swivel brackets to only see the middle swivel is not touching the board only the 2 on the ends. See image.
I thought just need to adjust the height on the one. But then I test fit on the other 3 with a different board and all brackets in the middle do not touch the board. Only the 2 end swivels are touching the boards in all 4 bunks. Is that suppose to be mid-ship weight having it lower or should they be even?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240304_175747043.jpg
    PXL_20240304_175747043.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 14
  • PXL_20240304_175851542.jpg
    PXL_20240304_175851542.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 14

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
15,506
This may be a dumb question but I need to ask. I test fit on board over top of the swivel brackets to only see the middle swivel is not touching the board only the 2 on the ends. See image.
I thought just need to adjust the height on the one. But then I test fit on the other 3 with a different board and all brackets in the middle do not touch the board. Only the 2 end swivels are touching the boards in all 4 bunks. Is that suppose to be mid-ship weight having it lower or should they be even?
My bunks are 4" x 6". They don't bow between the heads and ends of the bunks.

I would run a straight edge cross the brackets width wise in all three locations and measure the distance from the bunk to the frame to compare.
Could be a frame has bowed in the center over time.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,336
My bunks are 4" x 6". They don't bow between the heads and ends of the bunks.

I would run a straight edge cross the brackets width wise in all three locations and measure the distance from the bunk to the frame to compare.
Could be a frame has bowed in the center over time.
Depending on hull shape, sometimes the bunk being bowed adds more support. To ridged in spots could cause dents....can't tell about your situation so just offering some food for thought....
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Depending on hull shape, sometimes the bunk being bowed adds more support. To ridged in spots could cause dents....can't tell about your situation so just offering some food for thought....
I was thinking similar which brought me to ask the question since the entire middle column is slightly lower.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
15,506
I was thinking similar which brought me to ask the question since the entire middle column is slightly lower.
Then the question becomes....does the bunk make full contact with both sides of the hull in that location?

FWIW: Grady wants the stringers sitting on the bunks. I would image most other boat builders do as well.
Where are your stringers in relation to the bunks?
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Then the question becomes....does the bunk make full contact with both sides of the hull in that location?
Yes the old set made full contact with the hull. The two bunks are between the stringer.
 

rxl650

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
75
This might be long winded and not apply, but it seems like you might be where a friend once was. Been here before. Dont want to throw a grenade, but it could be a pain in the azz to get it right. After an experience years ago, I ALWAYS start on flat surface, level trailer and take plenty of measurements checking for a straight frame first followed by hardware measurements. Adjustments can be made with the bunks to correct if there are minor issues.
Soooo, buddy bought a boat {21' glass} on cribs followed by a trailer and stripped it. He soon discovered that the hull had a un upward sweep that was going to need your type bunks vs the ridgid and straight 4x4 type. He asked for help, but I really had no idea.
Off I went like a thief to the boat launch and watched for a simular boat to roll in. Asked permission to get measurements once they launched and got a baseline to start with, set the trailer up and loaded the boat onto it. We followed this by using any means at our disposal to lift the weight of the boat off the bunks by maintaining level conditions and making the required adjustments from there. Success in the end, but a bit of a workout. If you still have all your bunk supports on the trailer then you can skip to getting it on a flat surface for measurements. Do the work and make adjustments afterward. Hopefully someone can point to an easier way.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
You know now that I have taken items apart and starting to put back together I have a better understanding how this trailer should work for the boat when on the ramp.
First I don't think my old swivel brackets moved they were so rusty and broke off when I lifted them up. Also the rollers were seized making it difficult to retrieve. I suppose my winch was just pulling all boat never made contact with the keel rollers.

Now I think the bunk boards will angle slightly down when when the bow comes threw allowing the keel to hit the rollers making it easier to pull up onto the bunks. As it comes out of the water onto the bunks, the angle will adjust to the hull pulling off the rollers.
 
Top