Replacing Keel rollers

[demarko210]

Hello,

I am looking to replace my keel rollers on my bunk trailer. I have 4 of them the, all need to be redone. Hopefully it will make the boat easier to load. I have a couple of question that I need answered before I can move forward with confidence.

First question, should the boat be resting on the keel rollers while on the trailer? As you see here it is not. Second question being that the rollers are old and cracked would the new rollers make up the space or should I adjust the height of the roller braket.


Also in this image the little nubs on the end of the bracket do these need replaced also? Or can they just be removed? I do not see a purpose for those.


Also the keel rollers I am replacing with are the self centering versions. Do I need all 4 to be self centering or just the first 2?

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, Remove the rollers and wire brush and paint the trailer with cold galvanizing paint. Brushing it is best, if you can find it in a qt can. Spray is easier and more available, but not as good a rustproofing. Also, I will bet some of the ubolts will break when you try to remove them.

Check over the u-bolts and other parts of the trailer for rust damage. Replace all that are bad. It doesn't look like the height of the rollers is easily adjustable, so the same diameter is probably best.

Get some new indoor/outdoor carpet from the Home Despot to replace the bunk carpet. Use stainless steel staples to attach it.

Get all new self-centering rollers. I doubt self-centering vs plain rollers would make any difference in the centering of the boat, as that usually is influenced by the bunks.

The weight should be shared by the rollers and the bunks.

Rollers and ubolts are widely available, however, prices vary widely. You might check the large online places like eastern trailer

 

[redneck joe]

Get bunk slicks as well if you want easier loading.

 

[stresspoint]

keel rollers are not so important with bunk trailers .
most of the time they are just used to guide the boat on , after that the bunks take the weight.

 

[demarko210]

@Chris1956
I purchase 3 entire bracket with the roller attached. I will go with 3 instead of 4. I was purchasing everything individually and it came out to be about 10 buck cheaper to buy the entire bracket with the rod and roller. From the looks at my roller rod it is bolted on not press like the new one.

Also when you say paint the trailer you mean the entire thing or where I remove the bolts (crossmember)?

 

[demarko210]

Get bunk slicks as well if you want easier loading.

May be difficult as I have bottom paint on the boat. Not sure if they would be as effective.

 

[demarko210]

keel rollers are not so important with bunk trailers .
most of the time they are just used to guide the boat on , after that the bunks take the weight.

I think if the boat was on the rollers more it would glide right up/down the trailer when on the ramp.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I think if the boat was on the rollers more it would glide right up/down the trailer when on the ramp.

that would mean the boat isnt sitting on the bunks then.

rollers only get contacted during loading as the keel chine moves aft on the boat.

 

[demarko210]

that would mean the boat isnt sitting on the bunks then.

rollers only get contacted during loading as the keel chine moves aft on the boat.

Picture is above the boat is resting on the bunks flush but not in contact with roller once mounted on the trailer. I was thinking the boat should be in contact with the rollers and the bunks as Chris mentioned which visually thinking about it, should roll off/on easier. I could be wrong. I was thinking since the keel is the strong part of the boat it should rest somewhat on them. Its off about a half inch.

 

[redneck joe]

Resting on them no, touching them ok. The hull will flex a bit in a big bump in the road, then using the keel for additional support.

 

[Scott Danforth]

additionally, back the trailer in deeper to help load.

 

[demarko210]

@Scott Danforth @redneck joe Thanks. I will not move them up at all then. Should be better with the new bunks and carpet and new rollers anyway, it cant be worse!

 

[redneck joe]

do you need the bottom paint aka are you mooring in summer then trailer for winter? If full time trailer don't worry about bottom paint rubbing off and i'm no expert but the carpet is prob harder on the paint than slicks.

On my 26' it made a HUGE difference in loading by winch. Plus you can upgrade to a two speed winch to help if needed.

 

[Chris1956]

I would remove the old rollers, and replace any bolts or ubolts that are pretty rusty. Now wire brush any rust spots, and apply cold galvanizing paint to the entire trailer.

Now bolt on the new rollers, with new hardware, install the new carpet and that should extend the life of the trailer for some years.

 

[dingbat]

Thanks. I will not move them up at all then. Should be better with the new bunks and carpet and new rollers anyway, it cant be worse!

While your at it, when was the last time, if ever, the bunks where adjusted for the boat?

The hull isn't sitting on the outside, starboard bunk in your picture. Would suggest that the bunks are out of alignment and or not the boat is not loaded properly.

I would call Seafox and see if they have specifications for the locations of the bunks specfic to your boat.

Grady sent me a drawing showing the center of gravity for the boat, two possible bunk locations based upon the locations of the stringers, and the buttocks lines of the hull to be able to adjust the bunks accordingly

Made sitting up the trailer much easier. Boat loads and unloads as it should

 

[airshot]

By all means replace with the yellow type rollers, not the black ones !! The yellow type will last many times longer and I haven't saw one split open like the black ones do. When my boats sit on their bunks or rollers, the keel rollers just carry a little weight, only the rear keel roller is a couple inches below the keel....this needs to be your centering roller. This allows the V to get onto the trailer and lessens the boat from tipping side to side until the flatter part of the hull reaches the bunks. Can't tell you how many black rubber rollers I have replaced over many years, but never had to replace a single poly (yellow/ translucent) roller !!

 

[demarko210]

The hull isn't sitting on the outside, starboard bunk in your picture. Would suggest that the bunks are out of alignment and or not the boat is not loaded properly.

The bunk is split the reason it look out of align. The carpet is what holding that small section of wood that is broken. Boat sets flush on all four bunks!

 

[demarko210]

By all means replace with the yellow type rollers, not the black ones !! The yellow type will last many times longer and I haven't saw one split open like the black ones do. When my boats sit on their bunks or rollers, the keel rollers just carry a little weight, only the rear keel roller is a couple inches below the keel....this needs to be your centering roller. This allows the V to get onto the trailer and lessens the boat from tipping side to side until the flatter part of the hull reaches the bunks. Can't tell you how many black rubber rollers I have replaced over many years, but never had to replace a single poly (yellow/ translucent) roller !!

I order the a few of these. Almost went with the black ones when I was buying the items separately.

 

[Chris1956]

The price is criminal, IMO, but they last forever.

 

[demarko210]

I would remove the old rollers, and replace any bolts or ubolts that are pretty rusty. Now wire brush any rust spots, and apply cold galvanizing paint to the entire trailer.

Now bolt on the new rollers, with new hardware, install the new carpet and that should extend the life of the trailer for some years.

Meaning all the ubolts around the trailer?