Replacing all of the bellows for my outdrive.

[Rick Stephens]

That's a pipe thread. All 1/4 inch pipe threads are 18 per inch. Straight taper cut here.

Only thing I can think of that should cost ~$140 is an inch pound dial torque indicator.

 

[glennj3]

Thank you, so you think I can just order that tap and just put new threads through the drilled out hole?
Why do I have to use a strait cut vs a tapered?
You have done so good, can you locate a helicoil 18 for me? !!

 

[Bondo]

Why do I have to use a strait cut vs a tapered?

Ayuh,.... Because a tapered thread won't work,....

Ya need to cut straight threads with one of These,....

I've never heard of a heli-coil in that size,....

 

[achris]

If all else fails, here's an idea that might work.

Tap out the hole to 3/8" NPSF. Obtain a brass 3/8" to 1/4" bushing. Make sure the 1/4" internal is straight thread not taper. Very carefully cut the hex section off. Thread the remaining section onto the shift cable, then Loctite the bushing external thread and screw it into new 3/8" hole in the bell housing.

Chris.....

 

[Rick Stephens]

I can't believe you would not be able to drill the hole to the size listed on the straight taper 1/4 18 tap and just tap it out. Should just chip the soft brass left in the threads.

 

[glennj3]

These things keep slowing me down for sure. I should be able to locate the tap local, I had been looking for a tap and heli coil set.
The one listed on ebay etc is from China, takes to long to ship.
I have it drilled pretty close to the threads now, I tried to chip the brass away with no luck. Hopefully the tap will remove the brass and I can use some lock tight or seal to help hold it.
Will see, thanks!

 

[achris]

I can't believe you would not be able to drill the hole to the size listed on the straight taper 1/4 18 tap and just tap it out. Should just chip the soft brass left in the threads.

My understanding was that the thread was stripped. If it's not, then being VERY careful he may be able to rethread along the same cuttings as original and recover the thread that way. Else, revert to my suggestion.

 

[glennj3]

Rich had it correct. The threads never moved, the socket turned on the head of the bolt, the bolt head rounded off. I have drilled it out down to the threads.
I would think a tapered tap would work best at getting the threads lined up, no?

 

[achris]

Definitely do NOT use a tapered tap. If you do, throw away the bell housing a buy a new one (as per the Merc bulletin that came with the introduction of the new style cable. ) Was the old cable in from the front of the housing, the old method, or from the back, the latest method?

 

[glennj3]

Thanks, looks like it will work, I was able to start the threading of the new cable, so I stopped until I get ready to put the bellows on it,crazy why the entire cable has to turn in order to screw it in.

I started putting on the bellows and a storm came in so I stopped. I put the exhaust bellows on first, I may have over tightened the clamp, the lip of the bellows crimped up some, should I loosen the clamp?
Looks like the order would be to put the bellows on at the transom side first, then the bell housing last, sound right?

 

[glennj3]

Too late to edit. The exhaust bellows slipped off. I have put it back on and use less tension on the clamp. I understand why people don't use the glue.
I started running the shift cable through the transom, pretty difficult to move it around underside of the engine. I have it pulled up near the center back right now.
It does not look like it will go much further until I get the bell housing much closer. I now have to have 2, 9/16 long sockets welded together in order to turn the brass cable. Exactly how or where do I pull the shift cable through to best situate it on the left side of the engine?
Wondering do I need to pull the cable out of the transom in order to tighten the shift cable into the bell housing (since it turns with the screw part)?

Thank you so much

 

[achris]

Shift cable should be coming up the right side of the engine. Here's a diagram of how the cable should be routed.



Once you have the cable in the right position, but NOT attached to anything, give it the final tension in the bell housing. BTW, you did clean out ('chase') the threads with a correct tap before putting the new cable in, right? You need to have someone in the boat helping take the turns out of the cable as you thread it up.

With bellows I like to put the exhaust bellows on the gimbal housing and the uni joint bellows on the bell housing first. I find it easier to push the uni joint bellows onto the gimbal housing (after puttting the glue on) from the inside of the bellows, than to pull it onto the bell housing, which is flopping around. Once the hinge pins are in, I pull the exhaust bellows onto the bell housing as per the manual (using the special tool I built, from instructions on iboats, for $4 ). The shift bellows I slide onto the cable as I install it and do the final positioning once the cable is fully in and the other bellows are finished.

Chris.......

 

[glennj3]

Yes I did Chris! The carburetor is on the left side of the engine, so the cable comes in on the right side them over the top of the engine to the control unit??

 

[glennj3]

I have been holding off completing my outdrive due to waiting for the arrival of my inch dial wrench.
Also trying to figure out which shimming tool I need. From the book for the(late) 165 MC looks like I need the C91-60523 for the drive gear and C91-60526 for the driven gear?

 

[achris]

I have been holding off completing my outdrive due to waiting for the arrival of my inch dial wrench.
Also trying to figure out which shimming tool I need. From the book for the(late) 165 MC looks like I need the 91-60523 for the drive gear and 91-60526 for the driven gear?

And a set of feeler gauges.

Chris......

 

[glennj3]

Are those special, long feeler gauges or something?

 

[achris]

Nope, just normal length, and slender fingers.

 

[glennj3]

I keep reading and trying to understand all that is required to check the pre load of the upper gears in the outdrive.
The upper drive shaft preload. I need to use the drive shaft to check this. I don't have a spare laying around, that means I would have to remove mine from the lower unit!
This all sounds a bit much to perform!
There are no shims in my upper gear at all. The only shims are in the ujoint housing.
Oh I get so frustrated sometimes!

 

[achris]

See if your mechanic friend has an old drive shaft laying around that you can borrow for a day.

 

[glennj3]

He may have one. I may just go back with the boat to him and work on it with him or his help. I just can't get the bellows on far enough, tough small and dark areas to get to!
Earlier I said there is something broken, the flange that the large bellows slides onto in the front has about a one inch broken area. If I can explain this, the flange has an outside lip, then an inside lip, both look like they need to have the bellows over them. I can't get the bellows on much past the broken part which is about half of the lip on the bellows itself.
I am pretty sure I need to remove that flange and get a replacement. Any idea on what to call this flange so I can get one and what to remove it with?

This has to be one of the longest posts!