Replacing all of the bellows for my outdrive.

achris

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I linked the factory manual in post #5. If you want a printed copy, just print out the sections you need. It's only a dozen or so pages.

Drive gear is the one that comes from the engine, the one on the end of the yoke. It is the one that drives, hence the name. Driven gear is the one in the bottom of the housing. It is driven by the drive gear, hence the name. If the drive gear has 19 teeth, the driven gear WILL have 17, that is the only combination with a 19 tooth drive gear. (they are not 'mix and match').

You can't assume there's a small spacer just because it was tight. The nut will be tight for the rolling torque set up too.

Shims. Order from Mercury, they come in a pack of various sizes. Order one pack for each bearing location and you'll have all you need. Finding the required shim thickness is dead simple.
1. Drop the shim tool into place.
2. Measure the clearance between the tool face and the gear tooth face (once you get the tool in you'll see very quickly what that means, it's easy).
3. Clearance needs to be 15 thou. If measurement is more than 15 thou, add the difference between the measurement and 15 thou. (if you measured 22 thou, add 7 thou). If the measurement is less than 15 thou, remove the difference. (if you measure 12 thou, remove 4 thou. Or remove 5 thou and add 1 thu)

Shim pack numbers.
For under the outer race of the small bearing on top of the upper drive shaft (sets the upper drive shaft pre-load) - 15-45691A1 (about $9 for the full set)
For the inside of the front of the drive housing to set the drive gear depth . 15-35980A1 (about $12 for the full set) and with that one, make sure the ring is in place. (looks like a piston ring)

For the beaing preload, it's a little harder. Mearue the rolling torque. If the torque is too low, ad a small shim to the underside of the bearing outer race in the top cover and recheck. If the torque is too high, remove a small shim and recheck.

You are going to need a few tools for the job. Shim tools you already know about, you'll also need a rolling torque indicator. Not, a torque wrench will not do the job. The best rolling torque indicators I have seen are these -> http://www.seekonk.com/prod-24-1-100...30-in-lbs-.htm

Chris..
 

glennj3

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I can't believe I am spending all this money on tools I may use once, but, at least I will have them and the job will be done correctly, I did not pay a mechanic that dose not even do this! We only have two mechanics in this town and I am not crazy about either one of them.
How do I know which shim tool to order, I saw several different styles?
 
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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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At the moment there are about 4 people just on this forum rebuilding drive uppers. I'm sure you'll have no problem selling the tools, or hiring them out. ;)

Supply the serial number of the drive and I'll find the right tool for you.

Chris.....
 

johnkom

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Wow! What an interesting thread. Thanks all. I've learned a bunch. Maybe even put it to use some day.

JK
 

glennj3

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Just got home from wonderful trip to Florida. Now to refresh my mind on how and where to start on this job. I will get the # for you Chris!
 

glennj3

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I got the # off of the outdrive though it was difficult. AZ489374. The Z could be a 2.
 

achris

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I got the # off of the outdrive though it was difficult. AZ489374. The Z could be a 2.

OK... We're looking for the number to be of the format '0Axxxxxx, or '0Bxxxxxx''... I've tried some combinations of the number ^, but it doesn't 'fit'.... :)

Chris......
 

glennj3

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This is the # that was located on the side, left upper of the upper drive housing. Should I look at another place?
 

achris

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Under the decal. Should be stamped into the metal.
 

glennj3

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The decal is gone and that is where I got this #.
I will start working on the bellows today, hopefully get them on before it gets too hot for me.
I think I am barking up the wrong tree anyhow on the torque on the outdrive. I think it requires the 80 ft lbs since it was and has always been very high torque and worked fine.
I will look at the bearings again today or tomorrow to verify if it has the small spacer or not spacer and look at the instructions again.
For clarity, if it has the small spacer it requires the high torque and I don't have to measure anything??
Thanks,
 

glennj3

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Sorry, I just read the instructions again, small spacer low torque. No small spacer, high torque.
But I still need to measure the distances on the bearings?
 

achris

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Small spacer, nut to 80 lb-ft. No small spacer, bearing rolling torque 4 to 6 lb-in.

Chris....
 

glennj3

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You may see my new thread on replacing the bellows and shift cable. I got the old one off and I have the new cable and housing. The bolt that turns in the bell housing to remove the cable housing, 9/16 inch, stripped smoothly. I have drilled it to the point of not getting the threads.
I guess I need to drill it out and put in a heli coil?
What size drill bit and heli coil should I get?

Thanks,
Glenn
 

glennj3

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Thank you Chris, that must be an unusual size thread? NAPA auto parts do no carry it! I may have to order it!
 

glennj3

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I removed and checked the bearings on the out put roller bearings (going to the yoke). It has a small spacer only, no smaller spacer. I removed the not and re torqued it with my torque wrench.
Had to order the heli coil tool .
My engine is a 165 MC, so I think the #'s are correct.
 

achris

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If it only had the large spacer but no small spacer, then you need to set it up with the torque indicator, not a torque wrench.
 

glennj3

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The U joint assembly has the large spacer.
What is the difference in a pinion nut and the lock nut? They must be the same thing the directions seems to use it interchangeably.
So to be clear for me, the torque indicator actually measures the tension or "pr-load" on the bearings, while they turn, correct?
Just wondering what the actual torque in ft lbs would be at the required 5 in lbs of pre-load?
 
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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The U joint assembly has the large spacer.
What is the difference in a pinion nut and the lock nut? They must be the same thing the directions seems to use it interchangeably.
So to be clear for me, the torque indicator actually measures the tension or "pr-load" on the bearings, while they turn, correct?

Correct

glennj3 said:
Just wondering what the actual torque in ft lbs would be at the required 5 in lbs of pre-load?

You can't get there from here. There is no torque setting for the nut that will correspond to 5 lb-in preload. You need to go through the correct sequence and measure the rolling torque. You increase the tension on the lock nut/pinion nut until the rolling torque is 5 lb-in. Every drive will require a different tension on that nut to produce the same rolling torque.

Chris......
 

glennj3

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No one has heard of an 18 size thread around here.
The only ones I see are on line and cost around $120 to $160 ! Am I missing something? Maybe someone has some spares around they would let go of?

Thanks,
 
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