Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Don S

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

All threads regarding your stringer and transom rebuild have now been merged into a single thread.
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Ok, im back and all my threads have been merged, so sorry guys for my rookie mistake. Im about to put in my new transom but there is a large gap from the boards and the outer skin. The gap is about an inch wide and was wondering if filling this gap with puddy would be a bad thing to do structurally




I can sand down the boards till its pretty flush but i what there to be a good thinkness to it. Right now i have three 3/4in boards glued together and ive been sanding the inside part down but i dont want to sand it down too much. Im thinking of filling in the gap.... Any Suggestions?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

How large its that gap and how thick is your transom right now?
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Right now the transom is 2.25 in thick and the gap is 1in between the outer skin and the transome. I am thinking of sanding it down till i get the transom as close as possible. I think if i have to sand the transom down to much ill add another 3/4in pice to it.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I would attempt to shape it as much as possible to make it conform to the boats outer skin. How big of a motor are you planning on putting on the boat. Most boats transoms are only 1.5" thick unless they are I/O's or have twins.
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I would attempt to shape it as much as possible to make it conform to the boats outer skin. How big of a motor are you planning on putting on the boat. Most boats transoms are only 1.5" thick unless they are I/O's or have twins.

That is what i will do, i will shape it as much as possible. Im not sure what im getting for power. Im thinking 150hp, 175hp, or 200hp. It depends on priceing, but nothing less than 150hp
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Will you be adding any knee bracing to the transom?
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

im am shaping it down the most possible to have it fit as best as it can to the outer skin. Im not sure what hp im getting yet but its between 150hp and 200hp but not less than 150hp.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

The knee brace(s) strengthen the transom and are cheap insurance against stress cracks developing in the transom.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I'm thinking 2 mounted on the stringers. Something like this... It would greatly enhance the strength of the transom for the big ole' Outboard to hang on and tie it to the hull.
kneebraces.jpg
 

jigngrub

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I'm thinking 2 mounted on the stringers. Something like this... It would greatly enhance the strength of the transom for the big ole' Outboard to hang on and tie it to the hull.
kneebraces.jpg

Looks like a winner to me! A couple pieces of fir 2x6 laminated together and bonded to the stringer and transom with PB or PL on each side, then glassed in to the stringer and transom would make a transom stong enough to tow a battleship back to harbor.
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Thanks for the suggestions, ill start on the braces and send you all some pics as i get them ready to install
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I'm thinking 2 mounted on the stringers. Something like this... It would greatly enhance the strength of the transom for the big ole' Outboard to hang on and tie it to the hull.
kneebraces.jpg

Wood, you're getting pretty fancy with those graphics! What's next? Animations?

:laugh:
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Every Dog Finds a Bone once in a While:eek:
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

Ok, i have put in the transom.



After the transom was set, i went back to fill in the sides and round off the sides so that when i put my tabbing in i would not have a hard time with bubbles. I used poly and cabsol to thicken but no chop strand and im seeing some cracks appered as it was hardening.







Will this be a problem? Should i go back and chip it away and redo it with chop strand or can i just start putting in my tabbing?
 

Bomber Goober

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I may be wrong here but the adding of CS is to give it strength when under load or stressed after cured. The cracking as it hardening to me sounds like it shrunk excessively from either not a good enough mix or to much MEKP. This is based totally off of opinion and in no way do I have any scientific evidence to back it up.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I think the 'wrong' mix of poly resin & filler was used. Although Cabosil & resin will make a filler, it is 'thin' and better suited to filling small areas: chips and dings, not large, deep & wide areas adjacent to the transom ply. Typically, 'hairy' PB is used for structural applications, and filleting the transom ply would definitely be structural, IMHO.

I would remove the filler in the areas that cracked as best you can, completely would be best. Make structural filler w/ chopped strand, cabosil & resin and redo your fillets.

Save your fiberglass scraps when you glass other stuff. Cut it up into small 1/4" +/- pieces of chopped strand and use them to make your fillet filler.

You may want to try & make smoother fillets when you do it this go around, nice, smooth curve to allow the glass to roll up & over them should make the transom glassing go much easier when you do the tabbing & the follow up layers of glass out on to the hull sides.
 

Captpacu

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Re: Rebuilding Transom and Stringers...

I think the 'wrong' mix of poly resin & filler was used. Although Cabosil & resin will make a filler, it is 'thin' and better suited to filling small areas: chips and dings, not large, deep & wide areas adjacent to the transom ply. Typically, 'hairy' PB is used for structural applications, and filleting the transom ply would definitely be structural, IMHO.

I would remove the filler in the areas that cracked as best you can, completely would be best. Make structural filler w/ chopped strand, cabosil & resin and redo your fillets.

Save your fiberglass scraps when you glass other stuff. Cut it up into small 1/4" +/- pieces of chopped strand and use them to make your fillet filler.

You may want to try & make smoother fillets when you do it this go around, nice, smooth curve to allow the glass to roll up & over them should make the transom glassing go much easier when you do the tabbing & the follow up layers of glass out on to the hull sides.

Thanks, ill go back and remove all that i can and redo with CS. I have plenty of scraps i can use. I appreciate the info guy, since this is my first time...:confused: but all the suggestions have been lots of help:D Ill post new pics of the redone product.
 
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