Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

[jbcurt00]

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Of course based on CW's experience w/ ProCraft, and his post in your other ProCraft thread, my previous post may prove incorrect about factory vs previously re-done:

Ahhh another ProCraft from the "presoldout" era. My favorite boat. 1/2" plywood is fine for all the deck work. All the ProCrafts I've done have had 1/2" from the factory. I personally don't see the need for the extra weight of the 3/4" plus it won't match what was there.

As far as leaving the cap on....that will prove to be a challenge to get a good job. It's tuff to fit the new deck in and under consoles, storage lockers, etc. And I'm not real crazy about the idea of splicing it in to "a little left" of the old deck, but your choice.

The stringers in your boat are either 2 x 6's or laminated 3/4" plywood to make the 2x stringers. Either way they are not for say "glued in", but glassed to the hull. You'll have to grind the glass tabbing loose and they should come out rather easily. I've had a few where I had to pry a little but they'll come out. Again this will be tuff with the cap on since the stringers run the full length of the hull.

CW

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

jbcurt00,
thanks for the reply, I've uploaded some closer shots of the stringer that I took today and that I removed, doesn't seem to be laminated together but a solid piece of lumber. But you can judge for yourself. I don't much about the boat, I bought it from a guy out of Va. and he got from a guy from NC, where I live. The title to the boat says 1976. Very hard to find any information on this boat or Pro-Craft of yester year or I'm just not looking in the wrong place. So I have no guide to go by, just the expertise of you guys.



The paint or gelcoat what ever it is pretty easy to sand (but i was using a 9" grinder with 24 grit pads too, that will cut through anything quick). When i get done it'll be all gel coated and a totally different design. I don't like how they designed it so since I'm an engineering designer (just not nautical), got some ideas.

Question: Since I don't know the original stringer design, If I add more stringers and braces, can I go back with 1/2"? I tore of 1/2" from the deck but it was soft and rotted. From the stringers that I took out, It seems the width between the stringers versus the thickness of the 1/2" wood made the deck mushy and not stiff. Even on the solid part of the deck was not stiff to me. I'd like to go back with 1/2" because to me that 3/4" is heavy. Just a thought....of course you guys know more on this than I do, so I value all you guys expertise and opinions.



And check these out:



Guard dog on duty, Guard dog off duty...LOL Won't bite butter...give him a treat and he'll want to play with you....LOL

BV

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

In '76 they may have used anything, cheap 2X4's and cardboard were common items used as a core. Not many people will fix one of these old boats, so the chances of it being worked on before is slim to none. As long as you at least build it back to what it was to begin with it will hold up, anything you do after that may help, or it may be just added weight, time and cost. Foam was typically used to help support the floor, so for many years it would hold up fine, if the foam breaks down or becomes waterlogged then it will start to flex if it wasn't supported well enough.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

BV,
Ondarvr is spot on here, a 36 year old boat could be most anything. As far as a layout, well the center stringer is quite obivious, and as far as additional they generally lay on the chines. (each side of the center). To get a height, you can lay a straight edge across the hull and place the stringers even with it and glass them in. Also, they don't need to fit perfectly to the deck, actually a slight gap is better, you can fill the gap with a resin mix, PL adhesive, or do like the factory and put nothing at all in there, just bridge the gap with some 1708 about 8" or so to the hull and up the sides of the new stringer.

Once you've got the deck in place, just drill some 2" holes and fill the cavities with foam. You'll be better than new and have plenty of life left in her. (There are plenty of details on here for foaming, or I'll be glad to walk you thru it if need be)

CW

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Re: Can Someone Answer This?

Ondarvr and Cadwelder,

Thanks for input, I took out block looking,water soaked, foam pieces, nasty. I think the water got in through the port side strake. As you can see in my pic, it's a 2x6, notched and chamfered. I don't know how they even got the thing to fit, not bedded, heavy ***** woven roving was just barely holding it. Gonna do what you guys do and laminate some ply together and go from there. If I knew I would have all this to do, I would have bought an aluminum boat...LOL Need to hit that lottery, far as i know its up to 425 million. Which basically equates to a $278,300,000 cash payout if you take lump sum. Funny how Uncle Sam and Aunt State get theirs isn't it. Anybody got any lucky numbers i can play? Be glad to share in the wealth!!!

Cad, I'm still undecided on that foam, seems to me it just adds weight, yeah it may make it stiff and i like that, and floatation, but what i don't understand is how it adds floatation upside down, but does nothing for floatation right side up. It seems to me if it's enclosed, it should work both ways, but I'm not a nautical engineer either, just rational thinking i guess.

BV

 

[blkvyyper]

3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

hello guys,

Has anyone used this product: 3M Imperial Hookit II

please check out this link and tell me what you think....3M says it also works on gelcoats and primers. There is a guy on bbcboards.net that used it on his boat and said he didnt have to wetsand it after using it. here's that link also.

97 Triton Restore, Need Help - Page 3

3M Guide Coat Kit Howto - YouTube


Give me your opinions on this product

Thanks... BV

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

I rarely wet sand, but there are areas where you need to be very careful with a DA, or not use one at all, any radius is a likely spot to sand through with any type of power sander, even by hand you may sand through.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Ondarvr,
Thanks for the reply,
I'm trying my best to keep from doing it myself. I understand about the radius, since i learned that lesson the hard way with my boat. But I thought it would be worth a try to try this stuff, just wondering if anyone else on the forum has used it.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

I think the Imperial ( the purple labeled ) stuff stinks. It wears way too easy and too fast.

Any DA stickit will work just fine. I like to cruise over it with wet just so I dont have to press so hard on the buffer.

YD.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
Thanks for the reply. That's why I posted to see if anyone had used the stuff and to get their opinion on it. So you recommend just doing wet sanding then? It seemed like a good idea when i read about it, to easily show you the high spots and it says it fills in and makes it smooth.

But you guys have more experience than i do with all this so what you guys say is greatly respected.

BV

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
Thanks for the reply. That's why I posted to see if anyone had used the stuff and to get their opinion on it. So you recommend just doing wet sanding then? It seemed like a good idea when i read about it, to easily show you the high spots and it says it fills in and makes it smooth.

But you guys have more experience than i do with all this so what you guys say is greatly respected.

BV

No . I recommend if you can handle a DA sander to do most of your sanding with power.

Im suggesting that the Imperial is not the best buy for your buck when buying paper.

Wet sand on the last coat before you buff.

YD.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
Thanks for the reply,
No disrespect but I think that the Imperial I saw was a powder not paper. It's a powder that is spread on then sanded off to fill in imperfections and see low spots.

3M Guide Coat Kit Howto - YouTube

Its a guide coat if i'm understanding it right.

BV

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
Thanks for the reply,
No disrespect but I think that the Imperial I saw was a powder not paper. It's a powder that is spread on then sanded off to fill in imperfections and see low spots.

3M Guide Coat Kit Howto - YouTube

Its a guide coat if i'm understanding it right.

BV

You are correct sir about the 'guide' coat 3m stuff. I think its basically graphite or something. Yes I have used this and it works great ( Not better than acetoned Dykem for a guide coat ).

I guess I got confused from your other post up there ..

hello guys,

Has anyone used this product: 3M Imperial Hookit II

please check out this link and tell me what you think....3M says it also works on gelcoats and primers. There is a guy on bbcboards.net that used it on his boat and said he didnt have to wetsand it after using it. here's that link also.

97 Triton Restore, Need Help - Page 3

3M Guide Coat Kit Howto - YouTube


Give me your opinions on this product

Thanks... BV

So .. which product are you asking an opinion on ? .. the sandpaper or the guide coat.

Regardless .. at this point I think you have your answers for both .

The Imperial sandpaper stinks. The imperial compound is great. The guide coat stuff works good ( but expensive ).

YD.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
My apologies, maybe I said it wrong. I was thinking about the guide coat stuff. Didn't pay attention to the paper, but it now. I was looking more at the guide coat than that paper.

Hadn't priced the guide coat, Is there anything else you can use in place of the guide coat since you say it's so expensive?

thanks,

BV

 

[jimmy wise]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

yd and i have the sand paper discussion before. he likes psa paper, he can cut better with it. i think its because its firm to the pad on the sander. i use velcro backed paper with a foam interface pad on the finer grits. but on the glass work i use no interface pad. the interface pad cuts flatter and removes orange peel. a tip for sanding with da. tape all the sharpe edges with 3/4 tape and hand sand the edges. as for 3m its huge money. its good but it is spendy stuff.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

Re: 3M Product- Give Me Your Opinions

YD,
My apologies, maybe I said it wrong. I was thinking about the guide coat stuff. Didn't pay attention to the paper, but it now. I was looking more at the guide coat than that paper.

Hadn't priced the guide coat, Is there anything else you can use in place of the guide coat since you say it's so expensive?

thanks,

BV

You can magic marker your surface and then wipe with acetone .. or you can use Dykem ( mixed with acetone about 20% Dykem ) and rub that around. ** warning .. if you have perosity in your gel it will NOT come out **.

I really like the Dykem coat .

YD.

 

[blkvyyper]

Posted a new thread

Posted a new thread

I posted a new thread for some free online outboard motor stands. Hope it will help someone who needs some new ideas on how to build them.

BV