Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

nurseman

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One of my brothers took a leak on our dad's electric fence once.:eek: Turns out, my brother could dance! Who knew!
 

gm280

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Well you will know the dogie got into the electrified setup IF he starts barking in a high pitch like a chihuahua. :eek: :facepalm: :faint2:

I have to say that wood has some very nice color and grain. I have never used any of it before, but may have to look into it now. :thumb:
 

archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
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The clear coat epoxy dried overnight despite the weather. I did a little more this morning and finished up the first coat on everything tonight. I also cleaned up the shop, which took a while with all the saw dust and mess from putting on the veneer. I also fiddled with the fuel tank and think I figured out where I am putting it. I made the hold down clamps out of some 1/8" x 2" aluminum bar stock.....got lucky with a really nice fit on both of them. The rubber under the straps is a garage door bottom and the rubber mat is a door mat from home depot. Tomorrow I need to make the hard points and get them epoxied in place.





 

sphelps

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Nice tight looking bends on the straps ! Did you need to heat them up or just use the sledge ?
 

gm280

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I like it. Nice to use things around the house. Amazing what you can find and use when designing things. :thumb:
 

archbuilder

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Thanks JB. Sam, I just clamped it down tight between the angles and delicately bashed it with a 4 pound hammer. Works well as long as you have it clamped tight. Thanks GM, I had more of a learning curve on Miss Morgan, this time I knew what to use.
 

gm280

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Arch, I like that wood so much I am thinking about buying some to make some furniture from. Where did you get it and what is the rough board foot cost?
 

archbuilder

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Thanks Pat! GM, I bought it locally at a hardwood dealer. Its been a while but I want to say about $6:50ish a BF.....maybe off a little on that.

I had a few chores the last couple of nights. I did cut out seacast, but forgot to get a pic. I will do that tomorrow night. Its in the 50s tonight but I started putting on a second coat of epoxy on the back seats and over the veneer on the front seats. I sanded the veneer with 220 first, it took the second coat nicely. Tomorrow its back up into the 70s, so I am going to do a little more epoxy work and layup some glass to reinforce the seacast hard points. I promise pics GM! lol!
 

archbuilder

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Ok so here is my how to build compoiste hard points 101, round 2.

This is the brownie out of the pan, somewhat like rough sawn lumber.....kind of square and kind of flat.



I CAREFULLY cut it down in to smaller pieces and flattened them out some with the belt sander.



After that I cut them to size VERY CAREFULLY....I'm sure there is a circle with a slash through it some where showing this....but with the smaller pices and the bottom flat is was stable on the table saw.



At this point they are basically cut to size and sanded.
 

archbuilder

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Next I filled in the low spots on the top side with bondo and rounded over the upper shoulders on the bevel cut.



The bondo is the darker blue stuff. After that a layer of 1708 on the top side.



Finish sanded.

 

archbuilder

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Next I drilled a pilot hole through the center from the top on the drill press.





Next I drilled the counter sink in the back side and enlarged the pilot hole





Threaded the bolts in (the hole was the same size as the bolt.

 

archbuilder

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Put some thickened epoxy around the bolts to bed them.



tapped them in with a hammer (seated the shoulder on them)



Done other than letting the epoxy set up.

 

sphelps

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Gotta love the smell of freshly drilled smurf brownies in the morning ! ;)
Was gunna question the epoxy and adherence but then I remembered epoxy sticks to poly but poly don't like sticking to epoxy ..
So as Gildna Radner say's "never mind " ...
 

archbuilder

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Sam, Seacast says not to use epoxy with it, but it seems to work fine from my experience....It would take an elephant to pull the hard points on Miss Morgan off. Anyhow these will be epoxied to the deck, then tabed in. No holes in the deck and more than enough strength to keep the tank in place.
 

archbuilder

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It does have a distinct smell to it.....even drilling it. By the way, a plastics steel blade is a no go on cutting seacast. Tried one for the fun of it, got it hot enough after a short cut that it actually warped! I used a 32 tooth 10" carbide blade, no problem. Just run it through slow and steady. The counter sink was done with a paddle bit and all the other drilling was completed with normal twist bits. They both worked fine.
 
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