Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

jbcurt00

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Yep. Once and done. Esp w isolation from any penetrations of the deck.
 

archbuilder

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Pusher, it doesn't rot, or degrade with exposure to water. its basically a light weight fiberglass. It weighs about the same as wood, doesn't absorb water and is much stronger than wood. Its primarily used to replace transoms, stringers and bulkheads. I use it for all of the structural parts on my boats.
 

Pusher

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I get the sense you are going to sink nuts onto the bolts (studs) from above... With my luck, I'd over tighten and break the stud loose. What's your secret to locking them permanently into the casts? You used dome heads not hex heads also so I have a hunch you lock them in place with some voodoo magic.

I think I've learned more about boats from everyone on iboats in a year than I did in the past five years. I guess we have nothing that wasn't​ already given to us right?
 

jbcurt00

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Those thru bolts were carraige bolts, so the square shoulder under the smooth head digs into the seacast just like they would on a wooden deck post.

And of course the added epoxy under and around the bolt doesnt hurt.
 

sphelps

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Yep ... A tee bolt, if you could find one that size, would probably work well also ...
 

gm280

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Actually that idea works very well. I did pretty much that same idea with my trailer bunks. And the cartridge bolts, once epoxied in place, are not going to move either.
 

archbuilder

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Pusher, once they are tapped home like JB mentioned and epoxied, I don't expect to have any problems with them spinning. The tank is plastic, and the friction from the rubber mat under it and the rubber under the straps do most of the work. The straps don't need to be that tight, and even if you cranked down on them you would probably just crush the tank. As you can see in the mock-up, even if it spins, you could put some vicegips on the bolt below the strap to keep it from spinning. The nut will never make it down that low because of the limits of the strap.



I think I have the tank situated where it needs to go. I need to drill a hole in the deck for the filler :faint2: hope it ends up in the right place......then put down the hard points.

After I mocked it up I tweaked the swim latter so it would fit better, took a couple of hours of fussing, but the fitting are now flush with the deck and it shouldn't rub on the rub rail like before.

 

gm280

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Nice work and ideas there arch, as usual. Are you going to cut down the long threads on those anchor bolts? Just wondering. Know how I do things, those long bolts would be the very first thing my hand would get cut on reaching in there. :eek:

Another idea, if you even care to do it. You could cut the top of the threads bolts flat from both sides to allow you to use a vice grip or even a crescent type wrench to hold them so you don't booger up the treads if you have to remove the tank. The nuts will spin off without any problems then. Just a suggestion while there are still unmounted and handy.

I do like how you made the metal and rubber straps. Very nice.
 

Pusher

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You sold me on the vicegrip. Nice setup all around! Continuing to look great.
 

archbuilder

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GM, good idea on the cut down shoulder, but I don't think I will go that far. I will probably have to cut them off to get the tank in, but more than likely I will run a die down them to chase the trread and pic up some off those rubber end covers at ace. And most likely I will bleed before the tank is in for the last time!

Sam, everyone knows aliens did that........have you even noticed that Woods pics are kind of ghost looking.....like there is some magnetic field or something around him......oh never mind

Thanks Pusher, made some progress today!

I spent some time at my parents trying to get the poorly designed cellar door my uncle had built installed....punted till later this week, looks like welding and a lot of tweaking to get it to work. I also did some work on their roof. But in beteween I got a lot done on the boat.

I temporarily mounted the swim ladder (after battling the spring gardners at ace....all I needed was some hardware.....the checkouts were 8 deep!)



After that I carefully laid out the tank, hold downs and filler location....fingers crossed!



I had to ream it out slightly, but it fits nicely.



Project engineer


He seems stressed out...

I also put some 1708 on the splice for the side panels, they will be coming out soon and getting ready to go in for the last time......that is looking like another chore!



And I bedded the hold downs on one side. I changed plans, wet out two layers of CSM and squished the hard points down into it. Should work nicely and it was easier than messing with the epoxy. Tomorrow I will do the other two, and tab them in.

 

sphelps

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Hey I think your engineer and mine are related ... They both supervise the same way ....
Good thing we don't pay em much !
Swim ladder re-fitment looks good !
 

Pcolafisher

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Arch, are you sure that wasn't the project architect/manager rather than the engineer? The engineers are usually pretty detail oriented!
Cheers
 

archbuilder

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Pcola, the engineer has expressed up most confidence in the project architect.....so he is leaving it to me. Other than details like the automatic steak dispenser, he will apparently be supervising that.
 

gm280

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Arch, I said it before, but it needs restated, you do very good work. It always looks well thought out and and nicely executed. Or should that go to the engineer? :noidea:
 

mickyryan

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my supervisor would like to "gnawl on said steak dispenser plans" great work man fun to watch :)
 

archbuilder

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Thanks Micky, sounds like the chief engineers are all hungry lol!

Tonight I was pondering the gauge layout. Most of the factory gauges I have fit in the original bezel. The exception being the 4" speedo. I think I will leave the 4" tach in the instrument panel, since it is really more relevant to everyday function and put the speedo on the right in the new single 4" bezel.



That leaves me with needing a new fuel gauge and depth gauge.



I think those will go on the left and probably be Ferrari gauges.....I have been very happy with them in Miss Morgan. Sorry should have outlined my paper templates, they are kind of hard to see. I'm thinking the switches will go under the main gauge cluster on each side of the wheel. or maybe next to the throttle, perpendicular to the gauges.
 

gm280

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I agree with you on the tach and speedometer. The tach is way more important then the speedometer in my opinion as well. I'lll have to see how it comes out.
 
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