Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Thanks guys. We had freezing rain and sleet last night, so I told my office to stay home today. I could probably make it in, but the roads will be full of idiots that think you can drive 50 on ice......ask me how I know, lol! One of my trucks had a dent to prove it! I'm thinking of going out to the shop and building a stand for the drive. Now that its ed-greased, I need to start getting the corrosion off and cleaning it up. I was wondering if you can remove the gimbel bearing with a press since its off the boat? That would make that process a lot easier than a puller and hammering it back in. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to take a look at it this afternoon to see if it looks feasible.
 

boatnut74

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
1,835
If the gimbal is off the boat you should be able to drive the bearing out from the back side with a hammer and big punch.
 

Pmccraney

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
1,734
Hey Arch.
Been awhile since I've check in around these parts. Seems like been doing a little grinding while I was away :) Congrats on the milestone.

Good to see you on a project. Always enjoy your work and commentary.

Take Care,
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Thanks boatnut....I just have this aversion to beating things out....not that I haven't done it, the press just seems like a "less likely to bend something you don't want to method".....granted you can bend things with it for sure. Guess we'll see what I end up doing.

Thanks PM, looking forward to putting it together.

I spent some time on the motor tonight, seems like baby steps. I was going to put the front motor mount on but I forgot to paint the water pump pulley,(actually idler that replaces the automotive water pump), which I wanted to put the alternator on first, since the belt goes behind the motor mount...anyhow I got the pulley painted, waiting for it to dry. So maybe tomorrow......

I finally got the right distributor cap, put the new rotor bug on, then the cap wouldn't fit, wrong rotor bug, it is too tall.....back the the parts store.

Went to put the lifting eye on, it was in the wrong place.....didn't have the correct size bolt for the new location!

I wanted to find TDC, so I could time the distributor (at-least close) but the pulley / harmonic balancer is press on, no bolt to put a break over on and rotate the assembly. Guess I will have to wait till I have the starter on and bump it over till I get to TDC

So I sort of made progress on the motor.....I guess, lol!

I did some poking around on the drive too, apparently the early drives used a different hinge pin between the bell housing and gimbal housing than the later models. The later models have a torx head type bolt, set in loctite. I was looking at this hinge pin tonight thinking what the ?????



The hinge pin is in the middle, with a small internal threaded hole in the middle (and the weird smaller hole off to the side of the pin). Below seemed to be a pin, which I was guessing had to do with securing the hinge pin from rotating / backing out. But, it wasn't a cotter pin or a roll pin, so I was wondering what it was and how do I get this apart?

I did some research on the Mercruiser section tonight, and apparently the pin, is actually a 16 penny aluminum nail! the opposite end of it it bent over to prevent it from sliding out (not sure how you get to it yet, haven't been back out to the shop). It holds the hinge pin in and keeps it from rotating, much like a roll pin is typically used. Once you remove it, you take the hinge pin out with a 1/4" bolt and a dent puller. The bent nail seems awfully Okie engineering to me, lol, trust me I know, lol!
 
Last edited:

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
Yup you got it right Arch, the end of the nail pin is bent into a slot in the front side of the bell housing. The original pins were stainless steel and are NLA. You can get in the slot with a small flat screw driver to straighten the pin, the problem is the slot goes up and down from the center of the hole and figuring out which way the last person bent the pin is the first challenge.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
thanks for the info Dozerll, sounds like a fun challenge, lol! At least now I know what I'm dealing with, I'm sure I'll figure it out the pin thing one way or another!
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
I made a little progress on the motor today. I was planning on putting the carb back together, but after close inspection, I found some deposits in the bottom of the accelerator pump bowl. So back in the cleaner she went. I think everything else is ready to go once I get that cleaned up. I also got the alternator, belt, front engine mount, and new thermostat installed.

I cross referenced the oil pumps and found out the old 4 banger uses the same oil pump as the new 6. Which means the bottom of the distributor shaft should be the same on both of them (the distributor shaft drives the oil pump, both are turned by the camshaft, via a gear on the distributor shaft). So assuming the shaft lengths were the same, I figured I could use the 4 banger distributor to prime the oil pump. They were the same length, so I drove a roll pin out of the 4 bangers shaft and off came the gear, Without the gear, I was able to turn the shaft and thus the oil pump. I drilled out the center of the rotor but and put a bolt through it. I put it on a drill and turned the shaft until it was primed and the pressure came up. That stripped out the key on the plastic bug.



After that I just turned the shaft with a big flat blade screwdriver. I looked in the oil filler hole in the valve cover, and could see fresh oil that was pumped up. So I think she is primed. I was able to put the gear back on, so the 4 banger distributor is still good other than needing a new rotor bug!.

After that I turned her over by hand till I found TDC on number 1. (I put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders a week ago.) I tweaked the timing as close as I could guest-a-mate it, then put on the distributor cap, wires, coil and plugs.

I also started tinkering with the wiring harness, but its steak time, lol I get back to that tomorrow!


!
 
Last edited:

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
shes starting to look like a new engine!.....are u gonna start it on the stand, or wait til install?
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
I'm going to bolt it to a pallet and get her running Zool....I don't want to change up the motor mount in the boat only to figure out I have a dud! I may get her dropped onto the pallet tomorrow, also need to finish the carb and extend the wiring harness.....what happens depends on how clean the carb is and if I have the wire, I was hoping to get her going this weekend, but I'm not to optimistic about that right now. The crud in the bottom of the carb kind if threw me for a loop.....best plans of mice and men right? :D
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
The engine is looking good. I know how frustrating it can seem when you feel like your crawling along, but you do tend to prevent allot of later frustration by taking your time. I think having the engine running before you start to plan for your motor mounts is a good idea, and Making sure the carb is spotless before reassembly is gonna save you the frustration allot of us :)frusty: ) have gone through. Nothing like a bad running engine to make for a hard day. Looking forward to hearing that 6 banger purring like a kitten.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Taking my time with the carb for sure. Man it was nasty! I have a feeling I will spend a lot of quality time with an Ohm meter, butt connectors and heat shrink today! today's high is at 7 this morning and falling. I'm pretty much ready for winter to be over!
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
The old six looks a heck of a lot better with years and years of dust gone. I bet she fires up for you, Arch.
 

dozerII

Admiral
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
6,527
Motor is looking real good Arch, the bottom of the acc pump seems to be the worst for collecting crap in a carb.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
thanks, GA and dozerll. She has cleaned up pretty nicely. I didn't get a lot done yesterday ended up watching the Daytona 500. I did order an ultrasonic cleaner, they are supposed to work miracles on carbs. I figured it would be nice to have around for small parts cleaning also.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Look what showed up in the mail today!



I've been looking for a dipstick and tube for the 165.....which is harder than you might think! Mark72/233 was kind enough to send me one of his spares! Thanks Mark!
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
I scanned back looking to see if you found out what that vacuum thingie is on the side of the block. Did you get an answer?

Nice dipstick, Arch. It takes one to know one! :facepalm:
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
lol GA! I didn't figure it out other than this weekend I started to take it out and oil came out. Looks like its in an oil passage, not a water jacket as I previously guess. It didn't leak when I primed the engine, so it isn't an outlet for a mechanical oil pressure guage. Only thing i can think of is a low pressure shutoff, but why would that be vacuum?
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
That thing does get stranger as time goes by. The only thing I can think of is a cut-off for an electric fuel pump. But that has wires, not tubes. Even an oil pressure sender is wired. Hope you find so we can find out. :smile:
 
Top