Old Ford engine help

[redneck joe]

not an engine guy much, can do the basics but don't know enough to troubleshoot. I do have 'a guy' that is a diesel mechanic by trade and he can do most but there are times when we both have need to research but regardless I like to know what I'm talking about when I'm talking about it.

So - got an old ford about a year ago. 96 with a 351 5.8, injected.

I've replaced a bunch of stuff but in this scenario I think what matters is it has a new distributor. Was running OK since I bought it other than a pretty good knock after if warmed up. Was talking to my guy and we realized we had not yet changed the plugs and wires. After laughing about it I ordered plugs and wires in and did the replacements about a week ago along with a new air filer - threw away the KN and dropped in a paper one. Runs way better and the knocking is almost gone.

But....

New thing is it like to just die when I'm coming to a stop or almost like for going into a turn - that's not fun fighting the non powered steering in a turn. Fires right back up with no issues however when just sitting there it can start to sputter then surge quite a bit like if I didn't have a good foot on the brakes it could lunge into the car in front of me. I've never had it stall at idle, just when coming to a stop. Lunge only when at idle (that I feel anyway).

I gapped at .44, I did one wire at a time so didn't cross and besides if I did would it even run at all?

What would make this new change happen?

 

[over_head]

Figures my first post on a boat forum would be a non-boat topic . For the record, I do have a boat and I am working on it, I have just been able to find all the answers I needed searching...anyway Some vehicles will run with crossed wires, but that does not sound like what this is. If you want to test that you can pull each wire one at a time and see if it changes the idle. If two of them are crossed the idle will not change when one of those is removed, but again, I don't think that is the issue. My guess with the information provided would be either a dirty or bad MAF sensor. Especially considering you said it had a KN filter. People tend to over oil those and the MAF's do not like that much. I would suggest cleaning it, which is pretty simple. If cleaning does not work and you have a basic understanding of using a multimeter you can test the MAF, instructions can be found on Youtube. *Edit MAF=Mass Air flow Sensor*

 

[FunInDuhSun]

not an engine guy much, can do the basics but don't know enough to troubleshoot. I do have 'a guy' that is a diesel mechanic by trade and he can do most but there are times when we both have need to research but regardless I like to know what I'm talking about when I'm talking about it.

So - got an old ford about a year ago. 96 with a 351 5.8, injected.

I've replaced a bunch of stuff but in this scenario I think what matters is it has a new distributor. Was running OK since I bought it other than a pretty good knock after if warmed up. Was talking to my guy and we realized we had not yet changed the plugs and wires. After laughing about it I ordered plugs and wires in and did the replacements about a week ago along with a new air filer - threw away the KN and dropped in a paper one. Runs way better and the knocking is almost gone.

But....

New thing is it like to just die when I'm coming to a stop or almost like for going into a turn - that's not fun fighting the non powered steering in a turn. Fires right back up with no issues however when just sitting there it can start to sputter then surge quite a bit like if I didn't have a good foot on the brakes it could lunge into the car in front of me. I've never had it stall at idle, just when c

What would make this new change happen?

Maybe you inadvertently pinched or disconnected the vacuum advance??

 

[Sprig]

That is a tough one, there Are dozens of possibilities. As already mentioned a dirty MAF which is easy to clean, a dirty/clogged fuel filter, idle adjustment, dirty fuel injector, faulty sensors, blocked catalytic converter, blocked EGR valve, vacuum line, faulty cpu.......... sorry I know that is not much help but it could be so many different things. It’s hard to diagnose without in person hands on

 

[redneck joe]

Figures my first post on a boat forum would be a non-boat topic . For the record, I do have a boat and I am working on it, I have just been able to find all the answers I needed searching...anyway Some vehicles will run with crossed wires, but that does not sound like what this is. If you want to test that you can pull each wire one at a time and see if it changes the idle. If two of them are crossed the idle will not change when one of those is removed, but again, I don't think that is the issue. My guess with the information provided would be either a dirty or bad MAF sensor. Especially considering you said it had a KN filter. People tend to over oil those and the MAF's do not like that much. I would suggest cleaning it, which is pretty simple. If cleaning does not work and you have a basic understanding of using a multimeter you can test the MAF, instructions can be found on Youtube. *Edit MAF=Mass Air flow Sensor*

welcome to the forums.

so would new plugs/wires make this start to happen? Thats the odd thing, started the day after I did those.

 

[redneck joe]

oh, and there are two vacuum lines that are not connected to anything, but again didn't do this previously. Also forgot to add that the battery light comes on after I restart. The gauge shows fine however and it kicks over just fine as well

I'll start youtubing the vacuum lines.

 

[redneck joe]

this one looks promising

Site Suspended - This site has stepped out for a bit

and am picking up the MAP cleaner today after I spend some time in the chair of death this morning.

 

[over_head]

welcome to the forums.

so would new plugs/wires make this start to happen? Thats the odd thing, started the day after I did those.

I don't think new plugs and wires would make that happen. But I believe the MAF on those motors is in a housing which is directly connected to the airbox and would likely be moved around to replace an air filter. Combine that with the symptoms and the fact it had an oiled K&N filter and the conclusion I would draw without looking at the vehicle is the MAF or the connection to the MAF is the place I would start. It is an easy thing to clean and check with a meter, and worst comes to worst it is not an expensive part nor is it difficult to replace.

 

[redneck joe]

i did battle the airbox to get it back on securely. It wouldn't close right with the KN either, not sure why but I left it until i replace with paper and even at that I had to trim a bit off the rim of the new filter to get the whole thing closed properly so that and maybe running with a slightly open box not not has changed the dynamics that it might have been tuned to previously.

 

[Scott Danforth]

get a can of electrical contact cleaner and clean the mass air flow sensor. there is TSB on it from ford. known issue. dirt and pollen coat the hot-wire sensor and throw the readings off. the K&N didnt help with this issue either.

 

[Scott Danforth]

here is the TSP from a quick google search. https://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB982310MassAirFlowContamination.htm

what the TSB says is replace the MAF (increases parts sales). what the ford garage guys did was spray brake clean on the sensor, let sit on the tool box for about 5 minutes for the brake clean to flash, then re-install.

common problem on the 3.8 5.0/5.8 as well as the 4.6 in the crown vics

 

[redneck joe]

sweet. didn't get out yesterday, but will today for sure - the frame for the table build is supposed to be ready and i'm up to 320 grit so ready for it.

 

[redneck joe]

soaked it today, funky screws that i could not take out so just did it after removing from the big pipe thing.

drove about a dozen miles and seemed better but still stalled a couple times; and i tried to stall it a bit.

per the TSB, should i clear clear it ie disconnect to unlearn everything and start from scratch?

 

[Scott Danforth]

it should clear up and start adjusting after a few miles.

 

[over_head]

soaked it today, funky screws that i could not take out so just did it after removing from the big pipe thing.

drove about a dozen miles and seemed better but still stalled a couple times; and i tried to stall it a bit.

per the TSB, should i clear clear it ie disconnect to unlearn everything and start from scratch?

Probably torx head, I have a set but only because I have a 2007 HD motorcycle and it seems Harley loves them. You can do the reset, but if it is not urgent I would just do what Mr. Danforth suggested.

 

[PITBoat]

welcome to the forums.

so would new plugs/wires make this start to happen? Thats the odd thing, started the day after I did those.

Is the ECM not throwing any code(s)? I'm not too familiar with Fords, but I did a tuneup on a '93 Caprice that began running badly (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and it ran well after that, but would periodically just die (which didn't happen before).

It was occasionally giving a DTC related to the ignition control module (under the distributor cap) or circuit afterwards, and I thought I'd messed up a wire or connector since I had unhooked it during the tuneup.

I had the ICM checked at AutoZone and it tested good, but I replaced it anyway since the cap was such a bear to get off, and have had no problem since.

My long story short point is that the code led me apparently, right to the problem. Although I did chase codes/possible component probs on a '90 ex police Caprice once, and the trouble turned out to be the fuel pump, lol.

 

[redneck joe]

yeah I have torx set for when I had the Dodge (tail lights) but this also has a center thingiamajig in it.

And one of them looks like its filled up with something; can't even see the torx teeth

 

[redneck joe]

and what is this thing? It is on the side of the air box, under the filter if I remember correctly

 

[matt167]

Is this an F150 or F250/350? It only matters because on 1996 they have completely different ECU's

That thing is an intake temp sensor, and the screws on the MAF are security screws.. Harbor freight has a security bit kit for $10

 

[redneck joe]

150 and I'll run by my oil and brake guys place, he'll have one i'm sure. No need to buy more tools I'll never use more than once....