No spark 55 HP Evinrude triumph 1969

sad boater

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Let me start by saying that the boat prior to a burnt connection to the stator it was running great. I was a mechanic of car and stuff but honestly boats confuse me a little.. I do have the repair manual but I don't own the tools needed for the tests. So what I have found was the stator short overloaded the rectifier and ignition coil causing cracks in both. My question is about the amplifier is there a way to test it with modern equipment? It is a 3 wire amplifier and I do have the 12v incoming voltage. I was able to do the ohm check for the stator I got 1.0 ohms and no sign of short to ground. Second question what else should I check? I'm kinda lost on this.....

Thanks for any help, the sad boater
 

Crosbyman

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post exact mdl ans ser#... if the kill circuit is not the cause the " amplifier" is suspect according to Chat...
this may.. help but if you have no tools to test ....shop time may be on the horizon. techs for 1969 engines are getting rare..and $$$$
 

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sad boater

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No this doesn't help it's a completely different system than the video shows. From what I can tell there is no kill switch circuit on my boat. Never has been. That was the first thing I searched for. The model number is 55973A serial number J11067. It ran before the stator wires burned up, bad connection. After that I found both my rectifier and ignition coil cracked. I'm assuming I fried everything. I replaced the rectifier and ignition coil. I get 12v to the amplifier but only 5v coming out going to the points. The attached file does give me a couple ideas to check. I did all the tests I could in the book. There is no signs of stator overheating or short. It has 1.1 ohms when I checked the two yellow wires and neither showed short to ground.

Thank you
 

sad boater

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post exact mdl ans ser#... if the kill circuit is not the cause the " amplifier" is suspect according to Chat...
this may.. help but if you have no tools to test ....shop time may be on the horizon. techs for 1969 engines are getting rare..and $$$$
The only thing I can't check is the amplifier. It is available but cost is $400 not trying to throw $400 darts at y boat.....lol I was a diesel mechanic for 20 years but honestly that means nothing when I look at the electrical system on this boat motor.
 

sad boater

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No. Not that I can tell. I did the test in the book and I have no visible spark from the coil. It is new as is the rectifier. I was really hoping that was all it would be. I'm not that lucky. It ran great when I had it out.... until it didn't.
 

racerone

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The stator and rectifier are only part of the battery charging circuit.---Anti reversing spring checked?----Part # and source of coil?
 

sad boater

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No I haven't pulled the flywheel off and checked anything underneath it. I was hoping to avoid that. Marineengine.com part number 0502882. The day the wires burnt it only started for a second then died. Still cranks just fine. The battery is new.
 

Crosbyman

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wild guess again ( I admit not knowing your engine but yout mdl # shows it to operate with a break point)

reading other sources indicates that if you simply tap a quick GRD on the wire from the breaker point the"amplifier" should fire the ignition coil and you should
see spark. all the breaker does is provide ground pulses to fire the coil.


?? is this your engine......the main ignition coil should at least show a HV sent over to the distributor if plugs are to fire. It happears to be the main origin of high voltage.
if you don't see HV there I would work backwards. Pulling the FW may show something.

did you inspect and clean up all connections in the fat red connector ??


1774409987647.png
 
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racerone

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????---You have to pull the flywheel.-----Check breaker point gap.----Clean rotor and distributor cap.---Check anti-reversing spring.
 

sad boater

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Yes this is my motor. I recently purchased the boat. I did all the pre-water maintenance like cleaning the carburetors and changing the oil in the lower end. I fixed a lot of wiring before the engine, there in no actual plug on my boat the harness runs through from the key switch to the engine. I did not do a good enough job looking at the wiring on the engine. I'm sure I would have noticed the plug becoming weak. Excitement got the best of me. I had it running and spent hours on the lake. I did not do the tap test, I don't have the 12v that wire is supposed to have I only have 5v. So I never tried it because I figured it wouldn't do anything. I will try it tomorrow before I remove my flywheel.
????---You have to pull the flywheel.-----Check breaker point gap.----Clean rotor and distributor cap.---Check anti-reversing spring.

????---You have to pull the flywheel.-----Check breaker point gap.----Clean rotor and distributor cap.---Check anti-reversing spring.
That's the plan today as long as the weather stays nice. I will pull the flywheel and post my findings here. Thank you for the help and advice. Hopefully I can get It figured out.
 

Crosbyman

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5v heading back to the breaker point may in fact be normal voltage... That wire is there only to "sense" the ground furnished by the points. I have no info or voltages specs on the internal desing of that " amplifier box" and how it increases the voltage burst going to the main ignition coil.

One alternative here is if someone had an identical engine and could test the voltage to the points. but only few options will come out of this...

  • 5v is normal yet the amplifier does not fire the ignition coil
  • points are not functionning properly ( hence a tap test to simulate them)
  • the ignition coil is bad
  • distributor is bad
  • wiring to the plugs is bad
 

Crosbyman

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here is one comment from an intelligent source....subject to approval.. :)
flywheel

On your 1969 Evinrude 55 HP (model 55973A) you do NOT have a steady “voltage feed” going to the points like on a simple automotive ignition.
That system is a battery-powered CD ignition with breaker points acting as a trigger, so what you measure depends how you measure it.

What you should expect on the wire going to the points (under the flywheel)​

  • Static / key ON / engine not cranking:
    👉 Typically little to no steady DC voltage (often near 0 V)
  • While cranking (with a normal multimeter):
    👉 You may see only a few volts or erratic readings (this is misleading)
  • Actual signal (with proper peak-reading/DVA meter):
    👉 A short pulse signal, not continuous voltage
    👉 Roughly 0.5 V to a few volts trigger pulse (points open/close event)

Key point (this is what trips people up)​

  • The points do NOT receive power to fire the coil
  • They only trigger the amplifier (power pack)
  • The amplifier then sends high voltage (~200–300 V pulses) to the ignition coil (you won’t see that at the points)

What voltage should be present elsewhere (for reference)​

  • Feed from key switch to amplifier:
    👉 about 12 V (must stay above ~9.5 V while cranking)

Practical diagnostic takeaway​

If you're probing the wire going to the points:
  • Seeing 0 V steady → normal
  • Seeing low/erratic voltage → normal
  • What matters is:
    • Points open/close mechanically
    • Wire not grounded accidentally
    • Amplifier gets full battery voltage

Simple test (more useful than voltage reading)​

Disconnect the points lead from the amplifier and:
  • Tap it to ground while key ON
    👉 You should get spark each time it makes/breaks contact
    (This simulates what the points do)

Q: so basically the wire to the breaker points is a "sense wire" checking for ground taps as the points open and close... tellingthe amplifier to fire the ignition coil

Yes — that’s exactly the right way to think about it.
On your 1969 Evinrude 55 HP, the breaker points wire is essentially a trigger / sense line, not a power feed.

What it’s actually doing​

  • The wire from the points to the amplifier is:
    👉 Grounded when the points are closed
    👉 Open (no ground) when the points open
  • The amplifier is “watching” that line:
    • Closed (grounded) → it charges / prepares internally
    • Open (points break contact) → it fires the ignition coil

In simple terms​

You can picture it like this:
  • Points closed = “hold” / charge
  • Points open = “fire now”
So yes — it’s basically:
a ground-interrupt signal telling the amplifier exactly when to fire

Important nuance (worth knowing)​

It’s not just “any ground tap” — the timing of when the ground is removed (points opening) is what matters. That moment defines ignition timing.

Why your voltage readings seemed odd​

Because:
  • The wire is not supplying voltage
  • It’s just switching between:
    • ground (0 V)
    • floating/open (which a meter can misread)
 
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