Newbie Questions About Project Boat

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...lly-started-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Here is the pic where I drilled into the transom. As soon as my bit penetrated the fiberglass, it jumped a 1/2" gap and hit something, I am thinking the transom. I am perplexed by the gap. I tried another location, same thing. What it hit felt solid so I stopped, not knowing how deep to go and fearing I was getting close to the fiberglass of the other side. Any input?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Back off a bit so we can see exactly where you're drilling.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Back off a bit so we can see exactly where you're drilling.

This is about two inches below and in between the motor mount bolts. I'll post a better pic as soon as I am back of the boat.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Back off a bit so we can see exactly where you're drilling.

I took this pic before I drilled. The location in the close-up is 3" to the right and 3" below the left motor bolt. In the close-up, you can actually see part of the washer. If I was at the boat I would just take a better pic but this is what I got right now.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

It's hard to say for sure, but...IMHO that area should be SOLID with no voids. The transom should be 1 1/2" to 2" thick from top to bottom and the Inner skin should be firmly attached to it. It appears it may be de-laminated. This could be from water penetration or poor layup from the factory etc... Further investigation is required. I'd prolly drill/cut a larger hole to try and see what was going on.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Thanks Wood. What doesn't make sense is that the motor seems solid when weight is put on it, suggesting that it's not completely rotten. It seems to me that in order for their to be a void due to rot, that most of the transom would have to be rotten to the point of seeing some major flex when weighting the motor. Guess I really need to do some more inspection, next time I'm there I am going to try a smaller bit and go in further with it to see what kind of wood comes out. These are easily patchable if I end up getting lucky and don't have to do a replacement, right?

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

I'm reading a lot of older threads about voids between inner/outer skin and transom wood. A remedy seems to be to inject epoxy in these areas. How can I tell if I have a situation that can be remedied in such a way? I assume first determine the quality of the transom wood itself, but is there anything else I should be checking?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

It all depends on what the issue is. Again, Further investigation is warranted. Are you planning on removing the Fuel Tank? Are you saying with the motor raised up you can stand on the lower leg of the motor and bounce up and down on it and the transom does not have any flex in it? From the looks of the deck and stringers in your other pics, I find it hard to comprehend that the transom could have survived with all the other problems this boat has. Since you have to remove and replace the entire deck anyway, I'd concentrate on that so we can get a better look at the lower regions of the inner transom.

 

[bakerjw]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

If you can lift the cap, it will in all likelihood make replacing stringers and bulkheads much easier. With the cap out of the way, you can certainly get a real good look at the transom construction as well. Getting the transom solidly attached to the hull and stringers is an absolute necessity.

Many people will cut the old transom out and either replace it with new wood or build up an inner wall of fiberglass and use spacers before pouring in SeaCast or one of the other products. I just went with wood for the one that I replaced on my boat. It is sealed up tight and will outlast me. Mine also suffered from some bowing. I removed at least a 1/2" bow when I clamped it all back together.

Another gotcha to keep in mind. The factory used screws to hold my transom boards together. They will wreak havoc on a chainsaw like nothing you've seen before.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

I'm definitiely gonna take the fuel tank out. I did a core test next to it and the deck was dry. It's also dry near the edges of the boat. At this point it seems the water damage is isolated to the center stringer bays, between the fuel tank and the threshold to the bow.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

I have also found DRY foam in the outer stringer bays and near the bow threshold. There is no foam at all in the center stringer bays where the standing water and extreme rotting was found. Where the foam is located, the rotting is not nearly as bad. Not what I would have expected at all.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

What you're describing leads me to believe the boat was stored Bow up, but exposed to the elements. this would allow the deck to rot in the areas it has. I still think you will find the transom will need to be replaced. You did not answer my question about Transom Flex.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

It all depends on what the issue is. Again, Further investigation is warranted. Are you planning on removing the Fuel Tank? Are you saying with the motor raised up you can stand on the lower leg of the motor and bounce up and down on it and the transom does not have any flex in it? From the looks of the deck and stringers in your other pics, I find it hard to comprehend that the transom could have survived with all the other problems this boat has. Since you have to remove and replace the entire deck anyway, I'd concentrate on that so we can get a better look at the lower regions of the inner transom.

I didn't go that far with it but I put a lot of weight on it and didn't detect any flex. As soon as I can get over there when my brother can hold the tongue down, I will do as you said and bounce my full weight on it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

That should tell the tale. It should not have ANY flex. None. If it flexes even just a little bit IMHO it will need to be replaced and if so, then again, my opinion, you should de-capitate the boat to make things a lot easier.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

That should tell the tale. It should not have ANY flex. None. If it flexes even just a little bit IMHO it will need to be replaced and if so, then again, my opinion, you should de-capitate the boat to make things a lot easier.

Thanks for your input Wood. I looked under the bump rail and saw rivets, a lot of rivets. I'm assuming the cap is removed by drilling those out, one by one. Is that the case and what kind of a job is it to put that back on?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

You're correct and it's a necessary PITA!!!!! 3/8" Drill and appropriate sized drill bit. Going back on Pop Rivet Tool makes it pretty easy.

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

Sounds like a definite PITA. Avoidable with Seacast or Nidabond, correct?

 

[NickMcCabe]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

My partner and I are trying to add up estimated costs to determine if we should continue on with this project. We have $500 into it including purchase price. With that we have a running Johnson 50 (don't know how it runs in water obviously) and a running Johnson 15. We have a definite stringer and deck job and probably a transom job. The boat will need new seats and carpet. We would be happy if we sank another $2000 in and had a reliable, safe boat to fish and have some fun with for 5 years. Are we being realistic moving forward on this?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Newbie Questions About Project Boat

NidaBond or Seacast would Not solve the rivet issue. You would Bust Your budget big time if you used it. If you do a Normal Stringer, Deck Transom job using the normal materials, Poly, Plywood and Paint, You should have No problem having an extremely seaworthy fishing boat for a $2,500 investment. If you're careful prolly more like $2,000.