New to Volvo family

[ESGWheel]

Definitely a learning curve for me.

This is one of those areas where there are varying theories. The theory I hold to is that the Raw Water Pump (RWP), as a positive displacement pump, will suck the heck out of anything in its path. The nature of this pump makes it self-priming which is why it’s used in marine applications. And because they can pull a significant vertical column of fluid they get used in applications where that is needed. Here is a neat video on how these marvels of engineering work link.

And I should add testing this theory to my list of projects: I have a spare RWP and the capability where I work to set it up and test the vertical draw of these pumps.

 

[tfret]

This is one of those areas where there are varying theories. The theory I hold to is that the Raw Water Pump (RWP), as a positive displacement pump, will suck the heck out of anything in its path. The nature of this pump makes it self-priming which is why it’s used in marine applications. And because they can pull a significant vertical column of fluid they get used in applications where that is needed. Here is a neat video on how these marvels of engineering work link.

And I should add testing this theory to my list of projects: I have a spare RWP and the capability where I work to set it up and test the vertical draw of these pumps.

Seems like simple experience would indicate whether or not muff cooling is adequate or not. I mean it either works or it doesn’t. Guess I’m unclear on what the debate would be.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The raw water pump is not self priming. No mater what you read.

They are pushers.... Not pullers. Under way, they require the positive head the pickups provide

 

[tfret]

The raw water pump is not self priming. No mater what you read.

They are pushers.... Not pullers. Under way, they require the positive head the pickups provide

How does it work while idling or in reverse?

 

[Scott Danforth]

How does it work while idling or in reverse?

You are not on plane in reverse. So the raw water pump is 8-10" below the water line

 

[Bondo]

How does it work while idling or in reverse?

Ayuh,.... As Scott says, when the boat is in the water, the water level is above the impeller pump,....

Impeller pumps are a flooded entry pumps, which won't pump water, unless below the water level 'round the boat, or force fed by good fitting muffs, 'n decent water pressure, hopefully fed by a 3/4" garden hose,....
'n when on the hose, turn it on full blast,..... let it leak, once the motor starts, you'll need most of that excess water,....

 

[tfret]

You have the infamous plastic distributor housing. There are several fixes. One is getting the Dorman 90449 Vortec Distributor Repair Plate (link). I personally do not like this option as you can lose it into the bilge during cap replacement. But it works. Two: if the holes are not too baldly stripped out and cracked, another option is to carefully thru tap the housing with something like a 8-32 and use a machine screw to hold down the cap (they were originally held down with a screw with sheet metal like threads). I was able to do this with mine and it’s working great. Three: replace the dist. but need to be carful to ensure its SAE J1171 certified. I am doing some investigation on the aftermarket replacement distributors (I have a 5.0 GXi-E) but have not finished it yet (but will post it when done). In the meantime, know there are supposedly “marine” distributors out there that are not. If pulling the dist, be careful of the clocking and if unsure what that means, PM me and I can guide you with that.
And Welcome!

Ayuh,.... As Scott says, when the boat is in the water, the water level is above the impeller pump,....

Impeller pumps are a flooded entry pumps, which won't pump water, unless below the water level 'round the boat, or force fed by good fitting muffs, 'n decent water pressure, hopefully fed by a 3/4" garden hose,....
'n when on the hose, turn it on full blast,..... let it leak, once the motor starts, you'll need most of that excess water,....

I understand. Thanks!

 

[tfret]

You have the infamous plastic distributor housing. There are several fixes. One is getting the Dorman 90449 Vortec Distributor Repair Plate (link). I personally do not like this option as you can lose it into the bilge during cap replacement. But it works. Two: if the holes are not too baldly stripped out and cracked, another option is to carefully thru tap the housing with something like a 8-32 and use a machine screw to hold down the cap (they were originally held down with a screw with sheet metal like threads). I was able to do this with mine and it’s working great. Three: replace the dist. but need to be carful to ensure its SAE J1171 certified. I am doing some investigation on the aftermarket replacement distributors (I have a 5.0 GXi-E) but have not finished it yet (but will post it when done). In the meantime, know there are supposedly “marine” distributors out there that are not. If pulling the dist, be careful of the clocking and if unsure what that means, PM me and I can guide you with that.
And Welcome!

What does the -E signify? I’ve seen other suffixes as well. Not sure at this time which mine is.

 

[Donald0039]

Oh wow so no impeller in the drive itself? Ok that’s different to me. I need to collect all my serial numbers. All I know at this point is it’s a SX.

With the raw water pump being driven by the engine it's about 15 minutes to change the impeller. And no hassles with pulling the lower unit off the outdrive to change the raw water impeller.

 

[ESGWheel]

What does the -E signify? I’ve seen other suffixes as well. Not sure at this time which mine is.

See this link for the VP engine designations

 

[tfret]

See this link for the VP engine designations

Ah, very informative thanks!

 

[tfret]

Is the flush port inside the engine bay just a standard hose fitting? Nothing special needed to connect a standard hose?

 

[BRICH1260]

No need for muffs, use the blue port on the engine. Just start the water flowing before starting the engine. The port works well. Just remember to tighten the cap down good when done.

 

[tfret]

No need for muffs, use the blue port on the engine. Just start the water flowing before starting the engine. The port works well. Just remember to tighten the cap down good when done.

Understood, just making sure I don’t need anything special to connect the hose. I’m just not familiar with it and European stuff can be different sometimes.

 

[Scott06]

While learning my way around the engine bay, I discovered the distributor cap is held on with zip ties because the little screw holes are stripped or broken. Im not even sure it’s a traditional distributor but that’s what it looks like. Not sure how to address this but definitely don’t want an ignition component held together with zip ties!

No elegant but zip tie will be fine for years to come , it just sits there. I had a rubber band on my Datsun Z years ago, metal spring clip broke off.

 

[tfret]

No elegant but zip tie will be fine for years to come , it just sits there. I had a rubber band on my Datsun Z years ago, metal spring clip broke off.

Yeah so long it works and is reliable.

 

[Scott06]

Understood, just making sure I don’t need anything special to connect the hose. I’m just not familiar with it and European stuff can be different sometimes.

Volvo outdrives for us market are made in TN and the engine is a chevy so not as imported as you think.

 

[tfret]

Volvo outdrives for us market are made in TN and the engine is a chevy so not as imported as you think.

Yes I know it’s a GM engine. Just need to know if my standard garden hose will connect directly to the flush port without an adapter or something.

 

[ESGWheel]

Yes it will…

 

[muc]

STOP!
You haven't given us your exact engine/drive model.
The people giving you advise are well intentioned but could be very wrong.
Volvo's can have 2 different flush systems. one of them can only be used with the engine off! You will burn up the impeller in the raw water pump if you run the engine while using this style.
I'm sorry but even though I worked on Volvo's for over 30 years "07 Hurricane 202 with 5.0gXi" really doesn't mean much to me. Really need more info to help.
The muffs I saw posted earlier won't work with an SX. Use MerCruiser muff. Put then on from the front or back, however they fit best.
If you have an engine mounted flush connection, yes it will be a standard garden hose connection.
But you can use muffs on all Volvo Penta sterndrives. The pump on your engine will suck up hill if it isn't shot. You may have to increase RPMs to 1500 if it's weak (but that's always a good idea when you first start an engine on muffs). Of course these pumps don't "have to be below the waterline or force fed" other wise how do all the wake boats and large yachts that have the raw water pump above the waterline work?
Read your engine owners manual! If you don't have one. they are a free download from --

Manuals & Handbooks | Volvo Penta US

Workshop manuals, owners manuals and service protocols for your engine. Get your manual and service protocol here.

www.volvopenta.com

Use your serial number to get the right one.