New project.

froggy1150

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Do your fillets and all your tabbing at the same time. Your bubble roller will make a good radius and the hard to reach stuff just use finger
 

Rranger

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Got old engine mounts cut out yesterday, and started on removing transom wood which is proving to be tough stuff. Where there is no rot it is well glued and taking a lot of work to bust it loose.
 

88 Capri (2022 SOTY)

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Got old engine mounts cut out yesterday, and started on removing transom wood which is proving to be tough stuff. Where there is no rot it is well glued and taking a lot of work to bust it loose.
One of the most time consuming aspects of a project such as this was getting the transom area clean and removing any old gelcoat but it is so critical for the reconstruction phase. I could not wait to get past the grinding!
Like KC said we like pictures!
 

Rranger

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A little tardy on the pics. One pic shows the front end where I need to clean off the glued wood stuck to the top of the fiberglass stringers, tidy up my cleanup for peanut butter down the sides, and for cloth overlap of the floor. Will have to put a couple cross members in the middle where the sheets of decking meet in the middle. At the stern need to clean Up old engine mount base. Continue the middle stringer to the back and tie all three stringers into the new transom. Will leave a little gap on the bottom of the stringers meeting the transom for drainage to the bilge. Which it never had before which is very strange. Meanwhile have to givertomorrow on the transom cleanup. .
 

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Drivewayboater2

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Looks like you’re getting after it. Getting the transom wood out is a bear. I used a circular saw set at 1/4” and made small 6” squares all over the transom. Then was able to chisel them out one by one. small steps will get you there.
 

Rranger

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Looks like you’re getting after it. Getting the transom wood out is a bear. I used a circular saw set at 1/4” and made small 6” squares all over the transom. Then was able to chisel them out one by one. small steps will get you there.
Yes I find if you try to remove it a sheet at a time it goes better than trying to pry parts of two sheets at a time off. Will put some more time in today. I'm dealing with I/O hole patch job also. Hope removing plywood doesn't affect outer skin over the old hole.
 

kcassells

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A little tardy on the pics. One pic shows the front end where I need to clean off the glued wood stuck to the top of the fiberglass stringers, tidy up my cleanup for peanut butter down the sides, and for cloth overlap of the floor. Will have to put a couple cross members in the middle where the sheets of decking meet in the middle. At the stern need to clean Up old engine mount base. Continue the middle stringer to the back and tie all three stringers into the new transom. Will leave a little gap on the bottom of the stringers meeting the transom for drainage to the bilge. Which it never had before which is very strange. Meanwhile have to givertomorrow on the transom cleanup. .
When I got that close to skin I used a multi tool with flat toothed scraper. Then rolled into a sander of choice with 180, 220,380 grit. Sander made fast work of it. Scuffs up skin for good adhesion later.
 

Rranger

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When I got that close to skin I used a multi tool with flat toothed scraper. Then rolled into a sander of choice with 180, 220,380 grit. Sander made fast work of it. Scuffs up skin for good adhesion later.
Got some time in today and pretty much down to skin other than the thin stuff left. Thanks for the tip to get rid of it. I will get the rest of transom cleaned up tomorrow.
 

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froggy1150

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When I stripped mine... saw, air chisel with a 8" wide blade I made, multi-tool and when I got to the sanding part I started real coarse.... 16 grit resin pad. Because I had a bunch. Then stepped up from there. I just had to be SUPER CAREFUL. Trimmed all of the tight areas with a die grinder with sanding disks and a 3/8" belt sander
 

Rranger

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I used one of those 80 grit sanding discs on my grinder. It went well 95% done just one little bit left in a top corner. Finish it off in the morning, do a clean up, and check for any other grinding or cutting and get that done tomorrow also. Getting some 2” by 6”cedar for floor joists at plywood joints so can start thinking about glassing them in along with getting a transom cut and glued.
 

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kcassells

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Looks real good. When I was this far, I just hosed out the debris and also used bleach to kill bs in small pockets. Yours looks darn clean. Prior to glassing wipe it down with acetone.
Cheers!
 
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Rranger

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Looks real good. When I was this far, I just hosed out the debris and also used bleach to kill bs in small pockets. Yours looks darn clean. Prior to glassing wipe it down with acetone.
Cheers!
Yes I'm pretty happy about how it went and what I got done. Finish the one corner, then make sure floor and transom edges are smooth and ready for glassing, clean off top of stringers, and can probably get after putting it back together.
 

Rranger

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Pretty much done prep sanding and grinding. Got to sand the gelcoat off the gunnels in front of the transom on each side for glassing the corner strips, and that will be it. Plan is to start on transom tomorrow. Get it glued together, then installed first. Then attach stringers to it allowing for drainage to the bilge. The center stringer extention should be adequate for floor support over the bilge area. Then I need a couple supports 8‘ from the rear to support the joint of the deck plywood sheets. Then glue and screw the floor on. Oh and kudos to kcassels for the wash out tip. Got that all done and it’s looking ready, after an acetone wash. .
 

Rranger

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Some pics
 

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Rranger

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This piece on top of the old engine comparment floor is annoying me. Has edges that would interfere with water getting to the bilge. Anyone ever dug one up to get to the boat floor? Probably just a can of worms I don't need to get into.
 

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Rranger

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I’m probably cutting it out. Another issue transom was 1.5” thick. Even with the rot in it no movement when hand flexing on the outboard. Is it thick enough with a 3/8” thick aluminum bracket that goes on the inside and across top bolts for the pod. Motor would probably never be bigger than a 150hp (I have a 125hp) and a 9.9 kicker. Or glue two sheets of 3/4” plywood together, and stick them in, do corner strips, then a layer of cloth and a sheet of 1/2” plywood clothed twice and done. The extra 1/2“ seems like overkill.
 
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