New guy, floor repair questions

[Racer223]

Mandatory restoration reading in the stickies.

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

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read links 14, 15, 18, 13, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b (preferably in that order). look at tall the pics, watch all the how-to videos.

Yes! It is the one listed, Sprint 143BR, it says the boat is worth $1700 and the motor is $660 but I think the motor is worth more than the boat, seen similar BF50 sell for $2k.
Trailer is 1971, their book doesn't go older than '75 and this trailer is in great shape, probably hasn't been used much, definitely never see salt water, neither did the boat.
I'll create a Google album with photos and post a link shortly.

 

[Racer223]

Here's an album link, photos taken as I was working on the boat over the last few weeks (got it July 2nd or 3d) ended up ripping carpets out only a couple weeks ago and that's when I saw the cracks, one on either side.
Damage at the back near the drain plug is from the trailer being too long, boat was sliding too far forward past the rubber roller and riding on a metal rail, I moved the part with the winch further back so the boat sits on the rollers now, also had to readjust the bunks (I think that's what you call the long boards with carpet) but still have not repaired the damage because it doesn't seem to ever be dry.
Planning to bring the boat inside the heated shop for the winter, I should be able to make space for it, if any work gonna get done it will be in the dry heated space, although I anticipate that if it's waterlogged it will smell like hell and now having second thoughts about fixing it

Boat

27 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Scott Danforth]

those cracks look like freeze damage. most likely the foam and wood under the fiberglass is saturated with water. hence the reason it never dries.

do a few test drills and core samples

 

[TripleJGraffis]

Nice pics!!! Gorgeous boat with potential! That being said.....Please heed my advice. I was you 8 months ago......except I have 2 working shoulders. I bought a boat that I thought was going to run for me and very little needed to be done. I was convinced I knew what I was getting into. After continuing to work on this boat all these months, and all the knowledge I have gained in that time, I am 95% certain about a few things, that other more advanced members in this thread have already mentioned, and even warned me of when I started this journey. I still consider myself a NOOB, so if I am incorrect in my statements, someone please correct me so this gentleman can get the correct information.

So here is my 2 cents.

This is more than just a floor job. You are most likely looking at a full cut and gut project. Once you cut out the floor, you will most likely find water logged foam. After removing that, you will find rotten stringers and most likely a rotten transom. This poor old gal has either been mistreated or left uncovered for far too long exposed to the elements. The prior owner of my boat pulled the floor and replaced it.....Never fixed the real issue deeper down. Just put a band aid on a wound that required major surgery and called it a day......Now here I am, trying to fix his mess the right way.

If your shoulder is as bad as I am reading into, you WILL NOT get this boat fixed any time soon by yourself. There are so many things to consider here with a full restoration and boats are ridiculously uncomfortable and sometimes even painful to kneel, sit or lay in when you don't have a flat floor surface wo work on. You think your shoulder is bad now without working on the boat? You are going to do worse to it if you try, and then the boat will sit forever until you are better.

If you want something fun to play with now, then pull that engine, if you are well versed enough in fixing it, sell the hull for whatever you can get, and put your money into a decent, structurally sound boat. Slap that motor on and enjoy what time you have left before you need to start recovering.

 

[Pmt133]

^× 1000000

He is right.

A simple hull restoration is about $4000 with today's prices ,(no motor or interior)

Shoot, I spent nearly that much in resin, foam and glass alone!

 

[airshot]

Yes! It is the one listed, Sprint 143BR, it says the boat is worth $1700 and the motor is $660 but I think the motor is worth more than the boat, seen similar BF50 sell for $2k.
Trailer is 1971, their book doesn't go older than '75 and this trailer is in great shape, probably hasn't been used much, definitely never see salt water, neither did the boat.
I'll create a Google album with photos and post a link shortly.

Be rest assured that your boat has O value in it's present condition. Even after you do a thorough overhaul, it still won't sell for anywhere near that much !
The real truth is you just paid someone to get rid of their junk....no offense meant here, just getting you to see what your in for. Been in your shoes on the shoulder issues, it will be a full year after surgery before you have full use and comfort with it...

 

[Racer223]

Be rest assured that your boat has O value in it's present condition. Even after you do a thorough overhaul, it still won't sell for anywhere near that much !
The real truth is you just paid someone to get rid of their junk....no offense meant here, just getting you to see what your in for. Been in your shoes on the shoulder issues, it will be a full year after surgery before you have full use and comfort with it...

TBH I suspected that boat might be worthless, so I knew I was buying the motor... This is the only reason I bought it. If it was an old clapped out engine I would have passed, but figured this Honda is worth what I paid for the boat

 

[KJM]

TBH I suspected that boat might be worthless, so I knew I was buying the motor... This is the only reason I bought it. If it was an old clapped out engine I would have passed, but figured this Honda is worth what I paid for the boat

Take everyone's advise and ditch the boat. I'd also get aluminum if I had my time back as suggested above.

 

[aspeck]

The boat has some nice lines and there is nothing sweeter than a restored antique boat. However, antique boats aren't worth much, but are expensive to rebuild. If you rebuild it right, you will have a nice boat that will outlast you, so the money you put into it is irrelevant if you plan on keeping it.

You have a girlfriend with a kid. That means friends over to boat also as they grow. You will soon want a bigger boat and the money you invested in your lifetime boat will be wasted.

So, for those reasons (as well as the upcoming surgery which will stifle your rebuild), my recommendation is to scrap, sell, or give the boat away and keep the trailer and motor for use, trade bait, or sell for your next bigger, better, boat.

 

[Racer223]

I do want a bigger boat, thought a 14' was enough, and it is OK for 2, but with 3 of us and a Husky it is cramped...
It'll do for now, my kid is almost 16, will have his license soon and I suspect will not be around much once he gets his freedom.
Also the season is coming to the end, prices will drop once the lakes freeze, or even sooner once all the tourists leave, might find some newer, nicer, but I got to watch the expenses since I'll be out of work for a while.
I really wanted a Lapstrake Pen Yann or something like Chris Craft, but those either $10k or need a lot of work while I needed something that is ready to go so I can enjoy the summer.
I'm not giving up the idea of a wooden boat, seems the insides are easier to access to inspect or repair, no foam or fiberglass to cut out (no nasty fiberglass to breathe) also they look way better and I'm guessing have more value down the road.
If I had funds and space I would get couple different ones (same as I do with bikes) something to go fishing that is easy to clean the fish guts out of and another to cruise around the lake, and maybe even a pontoon, aka floating cocktail longe, for when friends come over...
Few years ago when I got tired of constantly fixing everything I own (because everything I buy is usually a basket case pile of parts that I rescue and restore) I bought a brand new Yamaha that is simple, reliable and can go to the ends of the earth, still have most of my older bikes that I enjoy for different reasons, form or function (seems impossible to combine both)
I also have several vintage scooters, real deal from the 50's and 60's, thiose are in a way like wooden boats, lot's of work, nowhere near the same performance of a modern bikes, but I enjoy putting around town on or even take on longer rides because I rebuilt every part of them and some can reliably cruise at 70mph (on 10" wheels!)
I love fixing things and riding bikes, some people pay $$$ to lay on a couch and complain to a stranger, I find it therapeutic to take a pile of worthless parts and make it a functioning vehicle.

 

[airshot]

Have owned a number of wood boats, biggest was a 16' Lyman. Wood boats are a lot of work and maintenence, but no where near as much work as reconstructing a rotted out fiberglass boat.

 

[Lectro88]

Hello Everyone. !

I have ben M.I.A. a long time.
But I just happened to stop by and I had to reply to this.
You have been given as good advice as possible by some of the Best and These guys have been there done that, got the T-shirt and membership cards.
1st. you are not the only one this has happened to.
My guess... about 99.8% of the "free boat" "good deals" end up about word for word of what you posted.
I have tackled a project fully knowing what I was in for.... started 5 years ago.
Shattered my ankle, both bones, 12 screws, (2) 3" long deck screws holding the ball in place.. And a 10-12" plate, About 2 year recovery.
So I get it...
My project was/is and forever will be, a 19' CConsle Mako 1969(same age as me)
I pulled out 600+ lbs of soaked/saturated, wet foam in gunnels and under floor. my transom was shot but the stringers were only wet, not rotted, But I am laying new beside existing and re-covering with more fiberglass and epoxy. rather than remove and distort the hull.
But I am Beefing everything up to to be extra safe.
My boat lasted 50 years and I would claim the way I'm doing things it will last another 100....,,,, If I Ever get it done.

I am no expert, but here goes.
If you had 400 lbs soaked foam that is part of you total payload that you failed to mention.
I think you hit it when you said it would sink with 2 more people on board.
There is a very good clue. The boat is warning you...
Take Those Thoughts To Heart and REMEMBER Them.
You "Could" have 0 capacity left with just you and the Dog.
Not wanting to get on plane is a dead giveaway of being overweight, engine trouble, underpowered,. or all 3.
Last thing you want to do is have things let go and something bad happen that involves a lot of water swallowing your vessel. with 3 people struggling,. (and a dog)Get your dog a life-vest too, I have 2 for Mine.
There is nothing wrong with a full restore,. If you truly love the boat.
In my case, the boat and me hatched the same year, so I had a strong connection to it.
Did I mention I have been on my project for 5 yrs and probably have 5 left rebuilding 2 ocean runnner 150's.
These projects seem to loom on forever, an ole lady starts gripping, kids need college or a car,. or new hobbies take higher rank., the house needs work,
or
3 clients filed 13 or B.rupsy, (been there seen that)
Watch 2 movies and these will ring very close to true.
The Money Pit, with Tom Hanks. and
The Never Ending Story, Disney.
Slow down and drive that boat like you are hauling dynamite,
If you see high wake or waves, I'd slow down rather than slam into them.
I know that's a buzz kill.
But safe is better than sorry.

Cheers, Peace Out, and good luck.

 

[Racer223]

Thanks Lectro, some solid advice!

I'm quite familiar with broken ankle routine, broke mine in '99 racing motorcycles, what you described is exactly what mine looks like, drywall screws through the tibia ball and plate+screws holding fibula together, 25 years later it's still pretty good, much better than the other ankle I broke, but didn't have the surgery on. It was a relatively easy recovery but I was 25 then, you're couple years older so I'm sure it's not as simple...

First things first, our doggo always wears a vest, even in a canoe, she's a goos swimmer, but better safe than sorry.
I don't know what the weight of the boat should be nor do I have any way to weigh it, but I suspect there is a "few" pounds of water soaked in somewhere, I guess no way to test it without cutting it open?
Engine runs good, with me and the kiddo weighing little over 300 lbs combined it gets up and goes, it will cruise at 33 mpg (on GPS) at about 5,700 rpm with BF50AW, although I prefer to keep it around 20, seems more enjoyable. With girlfriend and dog it's usually much mellower ride, just above headway speed watching a sunset or something...

We usually use it in a smaller lake, it's closer, more familiar with it because that is where we usually canoe/kayak and only about 5 miles long so not a lot of wake (jetskis seem to be the biggest source of it)
Big Sebago has Big waves but also full of weekend warriors and credit card captains, been reading about all kinds of stupidity on one of the local groups so I've only been out on Sebago only once, just to try it out and It has it's appeal but I didn't feel safe on it.

 

[Racer223]

Still can't upload pics so here's a link to the photo of the transom, boat was too short for the trailer and it was sitting too far forward, on the metal rail past the rubber roller. I readjusted the trailer and that's when I saw the damage, wasn't visible when I bought the boat.
I had it draining for a week, then went out on the lake for couple hours and maybe 2 ounces of water came out, so I know it doesn't leak much, still I want to fix it.
I got some Polyester Structural Marine Repair Putty from Toal Boat (they are few miles from my house but will only ship, no pick ups) so I was thinking about patching this for now, just so I can get out on the water without making it any worse. It hasn't rained in few days and it's probably as dry as it gets, so I'm looking for some pointers about how to do this

New item by Dmitry Slootskin

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Scott Danforth]

the exposed fiberglass probably soaked up some water.

get it dry

down and dirty fix...... mix up some gel with fumed silica into a paste and smear over the chips. spray over with PVA to allow to cure. dress as needed.

 

[Racer223]

the exposed fiberglass probably soaked up some water.

get it dry

down and dirty fix...... mix up some gel with fumed silica into a paste and smear over the chips. spray over with PVA to allow to cure. dress as needed.

How long do you think it's going to take for it to dry? Out of the water since Sunday and I don't think it rained since Sunday either.
What is Gel? Gelcoat? Silica is some kind of thickener? Is that what they call peanut butter? I might be confusing it with something else, been watching too many videos...
PVA is different from MEK?
Like I said, new to this, been reading/watching a lot, too much info all at once, IIRC there are some compatibility issues with polyester, epoxy and gelcoat, one doesn't stick to another?

 

[Scott Danforth]

PVA is mold release
Gelcoat is just colored resin
fumed silica can be used interchangeably with cabosil (same stuff, different name)

epoxy sticks to nearly everything...... not much sticks to epoxy.

 

[Racer223]

PVA is mold release
Gelcoat is just colored resin
fumed silica can be used interchangeably with cabosil (same stuff, different name)

epoxy sticks to nearly everything...... not much sticks to epoxy.

I guess this is why I didn't get the epoxy, can't put gelcoat over it... but I was planning to paint it anyway.
I have the Polyester putty from TB:
"2-part, high-strength, fibrous polyester structural bonding and marine repair putty contains long strand milled glass fibers for strength and dimensional stability. Use above or below the waterline. MEKP catalyst included."
it came with MEK which I thought it was the activator, but then I bought PVA as well, not sure why...
It has fibers, so I still need to add the silica?
Do I have to prime/paint this immediately or can I just fix it and use the boat for a weekend? If so how long before it can go in the water after I apply the putty?

 

[KJM]

I guess this is why I didn't get the epoxy, can't put gelcoat over it... but I was planning to paint it anyway.
I have the Polyester putty from TB:
"2-part, high-strength, fibrous polyester structural bonding and marine repair putty contains long strand milled glass fibers for strength and dimensional stability. Use above or below the waterline. MEKP catalyst included."
it came with MEK which I thought it was the activator, but then I bought PVA as well, not sure why...
It has fibers, so I still need to add the silica?
Do I have to prime/paint this immediately or can I just fix it and use the boat for a weekend? If so how long before it can go in the water after I apply the putty?

I think the putty you bought would do the trick. The container should tell you how long before you can get it wet.