My New 16' 1977 Ski Barge

[spanky543]

One last try...

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I see them!! LOL.

 

[ezmobee]

Those Cushions look just like mine did. Perfect candidates for the vinyl paint.

 

[spanky543]

Those Cushions look just like mine did. Perfect candidates for the vinyl paint.

I am going to try it on this cushion on my swing back first. I am going to try to repair the cooler cracks to see if I want to try to save the cushions on it first.

 

[spanky543]

OK so I am trying to see if this will support my hull to start the interior repairs. (I borrowed a picture from the forums to illustrate...this is not my boat)

If I run cmu block with wood at the red lines and then 4x4 post at the yellow lines...wold this support my hull? 4x4s will run along the garage floor...not vertically.

What spacing can I put the blocks? And 4x4s?

 

[Woodonglass]

That should be more than adequate. Your Semi Tri Hull structure makes it a very bottom stable hull. The area of concern will be the flexing and outward movement tendencies of the sides of the hull. A couple of Nylon Straps wrapped entirely around the hull should keep that from happening.

 

[spanky543]

Awesome thank you for the info. I think I am going to put it on some furniture dollies under it so I can roll it into the garage.

So I found some used plywood on Craigslist...and it says it weathered...I talked to a fiberglass boat guy here in town and he said that older dry weathered wood would be better since it will hold the resin better. Is this true? Here is a picture of the plywood. Its 3/4"...could I use 1/2"? Let me know your thoughts.



And should I use 2x s for the stringers?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I like dealing with new wood since it's straight, flat, and wouldn't have nail holes. I'm not sure how older wood would hold resin any better than dried new BCX. Once the resin soaks in and fires off its permanent. I would also be concerned of contamination in the outermost layers of the used plywood. I would want to thoroughly sand it prior to doing any layups. I'd also pass on any dark stained plywood as a sign of oil intrusion.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm, IMHO I would not use the pictured plywood. I AM a C.O.B, but...In this case I would also recommend using 3/4" NEW plywood laminated for the stringers and 1/2" plywood for the deck.

This might be helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[archbuilder]

That kind of looks like it might have been used for forming concrete. If so it will be covered in oil and the poly won't bond. I would stick with new material so you know what you are working with.

 

[spanky543]

Uhmmm, IMHO I would not use the pictured plywood. I AM a C.O.B, but...In this case I would also recommend using 3/4" NEW plywood laminated for the stringers and 1/2" plywood for the deck.

This might be helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms[/URL]

Got ya. When you say 3/4" laminated are you talking about 2 layers stuck together?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Laminated plies to form 3/4", not OSB. Use exterior grade sheathing plywood such as BCX. It can be found just about anywhere. Don't use treated plywood.

 

[ezmobee]

My transom is two sheets of 3/4" plywood laminated together with TiteBond 3 wood glue.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Oh, I missed understood your question.....:behindsofa:

I built my transom with two 3/4" pieces of plywood laminated together. I used PL construction adhesive since I have time to kill while waiting for it to gas out.

 

[spanky543]

I am going to get my transom tested by a fiberglass boat guy here local this week. Hopefully this weekend :-D I have to finish my lights and installing the tongue coupler lol.

 

[gsxrdan]

test transom urself with a 1/4 drill bit - drill some test holes and study the wood shavings that come out (or in my case, the wood pulp that comes out).

 

[spanky543]

test transom urself with a 1/4 drill bit - drill some test holes and study the wood shavings that come out (or in my case, the wood pulp that comes out).

What should I be looking for? How do I plug the holes? Peanut butter? I have some motor mount holes I need to fill in also... would that be the same way...with the pb?

My transom looks like it's about 2" thick and solid with fiberglass on each side. I am guessing it's plywood encased in fiberglass.

 

[archbuilder]

You are correct. most likely there are two layers of 3/4" plywood inside your transom. You can patch the holes several ways, PB or a thickened epoxy works too. You can always fill it with pb, and put a small piece of fiberglass over it for belts and suspenders. You will want to sample low, the water usually ends up at the bottom of the transom and it rots from there up. If the shavings are dark and wet you have a problem. If they are light and dry you are good. You can fill the motor mount holes the same way.

 

[archbuilder]

Also be careful not to drill through the glass on the other side. You can put a piece of masking tape on your bit about 1" from the end for a dept guide. You can usually tell when you hit glass anyhow its a lot harder than the wood. The test is really easy to do.

 

[spanky543]

Where is the best place to get the fiberglass, resin, and the stuff to make the PB? I am in Houston...or would it be cheaper online?