My first Starcraft I just picked up

[SHSU]

That is similar to what I did on mine between my flooring sheets. But I used 1 1/2 SS screws and not T-Bolts. T-bolts will be stronger I think.

SHSU

 

[oldhaven]

Nice to see another Chief on here. You will really enjoy her. Mine has been dry docked for a year or so while we built a new house, but I fired her up a few days ago. Yours seems to be in a lot better shape than most of the previous Lazarus cases we have dealt with. I’ll be following along from here..

Ron

 

[Fpscabs]

Oldhaven
Thanks for the welcome. The desert temps have put the old gal on a back-burner for a bit. It is hard to work in 110+ daily temps even after the sun sets for the day. But, I will splash her in a bit and enjoy the reward of all the sweat filled eyes. The worst part of a delay, which seems par for this Covid year, is all the micro projects that keep popping up. I do need to find some Teak, but so far the price has been a bit steep.

 

[Fpscabs]

Time to get this project completed!!!! Making myself a punch list in a sense.
Do to screwing up my shoulder, (something about moving 3/4 marine plywood sheets on a windy day with my T-Rex length arms) I want to get my old gal splashed and usable. My goal is to have her running well by the 1 year anniversary of ownership in May.

My lists of to-dos:
1. Finish replacing the center floor
a. epoxy edges and back seam.
b. reinforce seat mounting areas
c. install the tiedowns as planned
2. Install seats and seat storage boxes
a. Build the seat boxes: Passenger side will have raised box with storage underneath for tackle boxes and gas cans
3. Rebuild the steering consul
a. Adding new gauges, switches and 12 v outlets.
b. I would like to add a fuel gauge be able to see fuel level without having to get down on my knees to see it on the tank. Trying to figure this one out on how to put sending unit in tank and gauge in
c. Add some LED underlights for night use
4. Install Sirius radio and speakers
5. Inside cuddy ( I will be sleeping on board overnight many times)
a. cut and mount 3 center seat poles
b. Install LED lights: Strip under front and overhead
c. Make screens for sliding windows: sides and door
d. Make sun screen or shades over windows
e. Make a practical porta-potty
6. Install all those items acquired or purchased last year for boating fun
a. Downrigger
b. Anchor mounting moved to the bow area
c. fire extinguishers
d. fix horn
e. remote spot light mount
f. cup holders

Currently, the center of the floor (4'x 6') removed and the new fiber-glassed plywood ready to put down between the metal supports. After reading many posts on other's projects I wonder if I should just put her in the Lake before installing the new floor to test for leaks. Plus, test the bilge system too. I am only 1 1/2 miles from Lake Mead

Should I keep the original styrofoam pieces between the supports or replace with another type?

Thanks to all the posts that have been a huge help so far

 

[Watermann]

Good plan to make a knock out list and marking them off as you go.

 

[Fpscabs]

So the previous owner carried six 5 gallon gas cans. I would like to increase the size of the 6 hp tank from 2 gallons to 12. The main tank is a nice 15 gallon metal low profile tank. My plan, unless advised against it, is to move both batteries up to the Cuddy area under the front point box from the stern area (next to the fuel tanks now). I am figuring the 60 lbs of batteries will offset the increased tank weight. I will just run the wiring down the side to the battery switch.

 

[MNhunter1]

Biggest issues with the battery and fuel placement will be balance and appropriate cable size. Sounds like you've taken into consideration the balance, just make sure your battery cable is sufficient for the length of run back to the motor.

 

[Fpscabs]

Biggest issues with the battery and fuel placement will be balance and appropriate cable size. Sounds like you've taken into consideration the balance, just make sure your battery cable is sufficient for the length of run back to the motor.

So a run about 12 feet, just a good guess, would need what gauge wire?

 

[Watermann]

Cranking battery should be as close as you can get it to the motor with as short of cables as possible. Lots of angst and worry has gone into battery placement over the years here and really for no good reason unless it's a 14'er

 

[Fpscabs]

Cranking battery should be as close as you can get it to the motor with as short of cables as possible. Lots of angst and worry has gone into battery placement over the years here and really for no good reason unless it's a 14'er

curious about why cranking battery needs to be close to motor? I will keep it close, but am wondering about it's placement. Thanks for the info

 

[Watermann]

curious about why cranking battery needs to be close to motor? I will keep it close, but am wondering about it's placement. Thanks for the info

Current drop and resistance is the main reason, loosing amps makes for hard starting motors if they loose rpms when cranking.

 

[Fpscabs]

Current drop and resistance is the main reason, loosing amps makes for hard starting motors if they loose rpms when cranking.

makes sense. I understand basics, but like to know theory or reasons for doing things.

 

[Moserkr]

Been following along quietly watching you progress! Love seeing the big older boats being brought back to life. Keep up the good work before the hot weather comes back!!

 

[motley crew]

are you in water yet ? i had room in back of my starchief for 12 gal tank and my starting battery i nstalled two big rv batterys in very front of cuddy underneith cushions hooke up to harbor frieght solar panel mounted on front hatch this lets me run everything in cabin t/v lites without worrying about starting batt when i spend nite also the batts up front balances boat out nice