My first Starcraft I just picked up

[Fpscabs]

UPDATE: According to the special page used by the NV Dept of Wildlife when I finally could go register my Starcraft, I now have a pre-1972 Starcraft Starchief.

 

[SHSU]

Nice!!!!

I didn't do Varnish on my project but have on other stuff. With that said, don't envy you and completely understand the early start.

SHSU

 

[Fpscabs]

After many early morning coats (5) of satin spar varnish, I can go forward with the floor. Before and after pics.

 

[SHSU]

Improvements!!!

Side note, dig the radio

SHSU

 

[Fpscabs]

Thanks,

On Lake Mead, the canyon walls block most radio service, so I opted for getting an extra Sirrus account and they gave me a boom box docking station, with the radio head, which works great until I hook up my own radio. It sits on the old owners extra gas can holders. Just wait until I have this cool teak consul to install up there.

I Picked up a teak speaker box(freebie), that is under the wheel in the after photo, which will be mounted somewhere after a few more coats. I wanted to varnish at 5:30 this morning but temp was already 93. Only 117 now outside.

 

[Fpscabs]

Finished the gas tank screens. Nice to be able to work in the living room with the A/C and TV instead of outside in the 110+ temps we have had out here last week. They should make varnish scented air fresheners. Just sayin. House smells really good. The before picture was taking around 9:40 pm and it was still 107 out.

Started to get the old floor out. Will have some extra work in getting the new one in tight. Plus, after sunset, I had to pull off the old decals in prep for the new Nevada ones,

One nice thing about working in triple digit temps, even after the sun goes down, I get to take some breaks. sit in the boat and think about all the little ideas to trick the Chief out. I got the poles ready to put in the 3 holes to hold up the back rest cushions (had them on the floor to see if they fit the cuddy space) making the cuddy a solid bed. I will have to figure out the best way to redo the steering gauge section.

 

[classiccat]

Way to adapt to this oppressive heat. Splashwell doors look really sharp! :thumb:

 

[Fpscabs]

thanks Classiccat. I couldn't find a proper name for them, Splash doors sounds good. Out here, I figured more like 'shade doors'.

 

[Fpscabs]

What is the best way to deal with the vinyl covering over the Cuddy area? I hate black, but want to keep the old gal looking good,

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The cushions in that boat a really interesting and look brand new. If I ever own one of these boats it would have to be an outboard like yours. I want all that open deck area. Does not seem to be that many outboard models out there at least in my area

 

[SHSU]

What is the best way to deal with the vinyl covering over the Cuddy area? I hate black, but want to keep the old gal looking good,

Is it really Vinyl? That sounds like a pain if you want to replace it...

SHSU

 

[Fpscabs]

I do not know, It sure seems like vinyl. I really do not want to replace it, but I do want it to look better. It reminds me of a vinyl roof that use to be on cars back in the day. I never had a car with that kind of roof, so I was wondering what is the best way to deal with it.

 

[Watermann]

What is the best way to deal with the vinyl covering over the Cuddy area? I hate black, but want to keep the old gal looking good,

Most of us have stripped off the ratty vinyl and it's adhesive from the cabin sides and painted rather than replacing. Mine was falling off already. The thing is the edges of the vinyl go under all the trim so...

 

[Fpscabs]

Since my vinyl is still in great shape, I am going with Meguiar's RV vinyl cleaner. When it gets bad, then I will remove and deal with it

As to the floor: My thoughts are as follows: (I am not planning on tearing everything out and doing a full on restoration at this time)

1. I am going to cut out a 4' center part from Cuddy to Splash Wall and put in a never used fiber-glassed piece of 3/4 ply I found in the old marine shop. One side is smooth glassed,the other has the textured side. On each edge, about 6", I want to put in a rib that will be under the edge from the hull up to the base of the plywood. I would like to put in an expanding closed-cell foam to help with support and added buoyancy. I want to bring up the cut edge to the height of the 3/4 on a slope. Then I plan to epoxy resin with glass to seal the transition joint.
2. I had bought two sheets of 3/4 marine ply which I could use if the above fiber-glassed piece should not be used.
3. I am planning to cover the floor with marine carpet. Out here in Nevada, things get really hot to touch in 110 degree temps. I got blisters grabbing a tool last week fixing a broken water pipe in 115 degree temps bare handed. Unless the wise Sages' here think another surface would be better.
4. Under the seat bases, I plan to use a steel plate with the nuts attached (I was thinking of tapping the holes for the base screws, but did not think enough material to hold the plate on) for added support for my heavy self. Like an 8" square. The previous system used steel stripes with nuts JB welded in place

In all, I am new at boat restoration/repair. My gal seems to be in very good shape compared to some I have seen in the many posts I have read. The white tapered edged foam pieces are in fairly good shape I saw after cutting out the center piece of flooring. The flooring had popped a few rivits and anded in some spots.

Any thoughts or suggestions I am open to hear. I do not want to say, "Well that idea didn't work out like I thought"
Thanks

 

[Michigan Lakes]

I can attest to the carpet being much cooler. Went with Home Depot "Traffic Master" Marine carpet on mine. It's bottom-of-the-barrel stuff and obviously much harder to clean than vinyl, but I don't regret it. Pretty sure boat crew/guests appreciate it too. It certainly gives it less of a fishing boat feel.

 

[SHSU]

We were all new at some point. Its this forum and community that helps give us the opportunity to do these types of projects/restorations.

1. I am going to cut out a 4' center part from Cuddy to Splash Wall and put in a never used fiber-glassed piece of 3/4 ply I found in the old marine shop. One side is smooth glassed,the other has the textured side. On each edge, about 6", I want to put in a rib that will be under the edge from the hull up to the base of the plywood. I would like to put in an expanding closed-cell foam to help with support and added buoyancy. I want to bring up the cut edge to the height of the 3/4 on a slope. Then I plan to epoxy resin with glass to seal the transition joint.

So if I read this correctly, you are going to cut out the center add new wood with fiberglass. Then fiberglass the new center to the old non fiber glassed wood on each side. Do I have that correct? If so, I would be concerned about the strength at the joints, but then again I don't have much if any experience to speak of regarding fiberglass. So that is just my 2 cents...

4. Under the seat bases, I plan to use a steel plate with the nuts attached (I was thinking of tapping the holes for the base screws, but did not think enough material to hold the plate on) for added support for my heavy self. Like an 8" square. The previous system used steel stripes with nuts JB welded in place

I think I used an extra 14 inch square of 3/4 under each pedestal. [USER][/USER] is the one that suggested it to me on my project. So with the extra wood I was able to install stainless steel T-Nuts underneath to secure bolts into.

Hope that helps

SHSU

 

[Fpscabs]

I get the strength of the joint issue. I know under the existing edge is fairly shallow to the hull, so I was planning to put in some sort of base so the joint will be supported on both side, new and old, Attached on both edges so it will stay in place or had a thought of using some closed-cell expanding foam under the joint edges. Just do not know which way would work better. Plus, I plan on building a tackle box storage under the passenger seat which will act like a foot rest too so that part of the edge (5 1/2"aprx) will never have any weight on it. The old floor had a thin alum. band to hold the old floor. It really didn't not give any support towards the edges. I had a lot of flex in the old floor.

I think the extra 14" base with the t-nuts is a great idea.

I like your logic MI Lakes. Even though I will be fishing often, carpet will be cooler or warmer in the winter, I know they PO had carpet over the original vinyl covering. The cleaning issue now grows in my head. So many angles and choices and all I want to do is splash the old gal.

 

[SHSU]

I agree that the aluminum strips between sheets really doesn't do much. Its the cross ways where I see the potential for structural support. Its another point from one side of the rib to the other that helps prevent the hull from deforming under stress. With that said, I don't know how much, if any, it actually provides. So again, just my 2 cents.

Either way, sounds like you got some good ideas to make the boat better for you

SHSU

 

[Fpscabs]

SHSU Thanks. I figure to leave them in, but my two soft spots were at each end of the 4' center floor section seam. In fact the rivets had pulled through at both seam ends. I am hopeful when I get it finished, the floor will be stronger and actually support any lateral movement. I am thinking of having a strip of under-support at the edge that is off set to bring up the thinner edge pieces to the level of the 3/4 new center. This way I will have to use less epoxy resin on the joint to create a smoother transition. The hull side of the old floor would taper down just a bit from the center board height.

 

[Fpscabs]

A basic sketch of my idea