My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

[Woodonglass]

Well then, That oughta be there fer a while!!! Are you gunna do any Zolatoning???

 

[sphelps]

Looks good ! But your 3/16 off your original green marks ! Sorry your gunna have to tear it out and start over ...

 

[Corjen1]

Well then, That oughta be there fer a while!!! Are you gunna do any Zolatoning???

No sir.....actually the only parts that will be visible to the casual user are the unpainted parts. Everything aft of the paint is behind the seat/under the splash well. Personally Im not a fan of the Zolatoning,it oK, but not for this boat. I just finished cutting the carpet that will go in, Not yet, but its ready for install when the time comes.

 

[tpenfield]

I'm enjoying your top quality work. :thumb:

 

[Corjen1]

Looks good ! But your 3/16 off your original green marks ! Sorry your gunna have to tear it out and start over ...

Sam....yes, I gambled with it.....

the top is mate to the hull againg for the final time!!!! (I hope)









Turns out the 3/16ths didnt matter.....





Had I been off another 3/16th... it would have been a revolting development!!!!!

 

[Corjen1]

OK...some questions...the steering wheel....are they all the same, as in how the attach? The teleflex cables are stiff, can I soak them with penetrating oil or just replace them?

 

[Woodonglass]

If the sheathing is still all good and not cracked then I'd disassemble and form a funnel from some plastic and duct tape around one end, hang from the ceiling in the garage and pour some brake fluid in the funnel and try and work the cable back a forth and see if you can get some lube down in it. If so you'll be good to go. Laying out on the driveway in the hot sun will make it all flexible again. Some simple green and a stiff bush should clean that wheel up nicely. You can get a New Rotary system with a New wheel for $155.00

 

[Corjen1]

If the sheathing is still all good and not cracked then I'd disassemble and form a funnel from some plastic and duct tape around one end, hang from the ceiling in the garage and pour some brake fluid in the funnel and try and work the cable back a forth and see if you can get some lube down in it. If so you'll be good to go. Laying out on the driveway in the hot sun will make it all flexible again. Some simple green and a stiff bush should clean that wheel up nicely. You can get a New Rotary system with a New wheel for $155.00

Get new from where?? Im not married to using the original wheel....

 

[sphelps]

Yep ! You got away with one this time .. That 3/16 could have come back ta bite ya ..
the original wheel looks in good shape .. No cracks or anything . Maybe clean it up and paint it .. Unless ya find a style you like better ..
Btw , With the cap back on I just remembered how freaking COOL this boat is !

 

[Woodonglass]

Get new from where?? Im not married to using the original wheel....

Evil Bay...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teleflex-SS...EEL-/400585102433?hash=item5d44bb9461&vxp=mtr

 

[ahmincha]

Wow cor your work is super i am with sphelps I forgot how cool that boat is

 

[Mark72233]

Yep, I agree. Let's start the voting. This is one of the top ten coolest boats on the restore thread and top five for outstanding work.

 

[archbuilder]

Looks really cool Cor, nice work. I went with a new on mine.....old cable was toast. I went with a rack and pinion (the rotary wouldn't fit). I also got the no feed back version, worth the money considering the beast you are hanging on back. You can point the boat in one direction and take your hands off the wheel....it will keep on that track until you turn it. I used to have one without it, and I hated how you had to counter the prop torque by putting constant pressure on it. Speaking of motors, the steering assemblies have HP ratings, some may not work with the motor you are hanging on the back.

 

[Corjen1]

Thanks all for the compliments!!! Im a bit confused on the teleflex cable lengths.....the link Wog posted says: Measure cable routing path in boat as follows: A= Center line of wheel to gunwale. B= Dash to transom. C= Gunwale to centerline of cable connection at the center of the tiller. For Tilt Tube Mounting (TUBE ON THE MOTOR), add A, B & C + 6", round up to next even foot. For Transom/Splashwell/Stringer Support Mounting, add A, B & C, then subtract 6" and round up to the next even foot.
Measure Existing Cable as Follows : Measure plastic cable jacket (casing, dimension "Y") in inches, add 30", and round up to the next even foot.

18" + 6' + 3' = 10'5".....- 6 in (for transom mount support) = 9'11" round up to next even foot = 10 ft

I measured the existing plastic jacket.....its 6 ft long, + 30" =8.5 ft, round up to next even foot = 10 ft ?

I need a 10ft long one correct?? Or would I need a 9ft??

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, In Okieland, we'd get a 9 footer!!! (8.5 + = 9')

When I got mine, I measured from the center of the wheel mount, over to the gunwale and back to the stern, then in to the center of the motor and added 1 foot. My measurement doing it like that was 12'. That's what I ordered and it installed and works perfectly.
Arch makes some good points about the NFB steering. With you and your kids it would be nice to be able to turn around and not worry about steering drift. Those systems, (Rotary or R&P) with a new wheel, run a little less than $250. I got the standard rotary for the BF and the big 85hp and if I let go of the wheel she will drift. But being a C.O.B. I didn't want to pay the extra $100 bucks. MoMo can watch the kids for me!!!!

 

[Corjen1]

Thanks Mike, I couldn't understand why they were saying to round to the next even foot....

 

[Corjen1]

Not too much activity the last couple days.....one of my 3 petrie dish children polluted the house.....It got me first, now the Admiral. Body is out of commission, brain still grinding away..... went to doc today, hope to be functional again tomorrow....

Where did you guys get your replacement motor well boots? Im not really having any luck finding what Im looking for . Was hoping to find them in white with a supported mounting ring. Need 2, 3 inchers....

Also, are teleflex cable rods the same size? I need to get a clevis that threads to the rod end and attaches to the ToP...I have the pivoting Motor side... (male side i think)






Decided to go with a new teleflex steering system. Arch/WOG, tips were appreciated, I got the rack/pinion NFB system and a new steering wheel. Once the wheel get here, Ill post pix.....they seem to generate some good debate!!

Now the bad news......I am going to have to lift the top one more time......Like a giant bone head, I failed to refresh my pea brain memory banks on the exact location of the fuel cell. I located the mounting studs 3 inches too far aft!!!!! now the tank hits on the bow closeout panel (yes there was a good bit of stomping and cussing in the garage. I knew I would have to relocate the fill hole to align with the new tank...the only way to really fix this properly is to cut out the mount studs and reinstall the in the correct position. It could probably be done with out lifting the top, but will be much faster and easier to do it opened up. As my Dad likes to say "This is a revolting development"!!!!







Thanks All

 

[Tnstratofam]

Sorry to hear you all caught a bug. I so dislike getting sick in the spring and summer especially when it's something the first mate drags home from school. He's 16 and still manages to bring home at least one or two bugs a year. Sucks about having to remove the cap as well. I'm real good about taking things apart because I tend to have to do it over and over because of all the spare parts I find laying around after a project.:facepalm:

 

[ahmincha]

Sorry to hear you under the weather. not bad enough being sick but while on vacation that stinks.
About the cable I think they mean even as no inches not even odd but thats only my guess.
Hope you feel better soon!!!

 

[Corjen1]

I couldnt stand laying around anymore today..... so I popped the top...cut out the fuel cell anchors. Fabbed new one PB'd, tabbed in the new location.











Since I had the top lifted, I took the oppurtunity to rough route the wireing for the fuel sending unit, horn and nav light. Much easier to route down the gunwale.....






Now...back to the couch!!!