What area of the boat are you glassing? Normally PCs is not required for structural glass work. Normally used for gelcoat application
Thanks Scott. I think I'm ok now with the unwaxed resin. Why mine did not get tacky, I don't know. Maybe because it was old resin; 18-24 months old likely. Anyway, you can read my post below and thanks for your reply. I too am a grumpy old guy. Maybe that's why one of my favorite movies is Grumpy Old Men.
Lectro88, I'll continue to post as work progresses. With Indiana winter coming and my work is in the garage where my furnace is, I have to be very careful with dust (furnace off basically). But I'll be working both inside and out as weather permits. Grind and cut outside, scratch head inside. But I'll post as I'm able. Thanks for your reply.
I have pondered clearing out the basement, but just have a hard time tempting that demon, for several reasons....
Years ago I was spray painting either in my unattached garage or outside (forgot) that was at least 50 feet from the house and one day I looked up at an upstairs window air conditioner. To my surprise, I saw yellow paint on the air conditioner filter. That taught me a lesson about airborne stuff. Anyway, as I grind (mainly sand and use an oscillating cutter/scraper/etc.) outdoors now, I am still amazed at how much dust collects on nearby equipment. I even shut my furnace/air off while I work outdoors because I know some of the dust is going to make its way into the garage furnace. So I can appreciate what you are saying; fiberglass everywhere.
Thanks Froggy. I purchased my resin from a well known boat resin supplier, but the resin was old (maybe 2 years, or so) and I thought that might be part of the issue. However, the container was clearly marked as unwaxed. Since I used this old resin for the under-carpet boat lids, etc., I figured it was not going to be a big issue since there is not much structural pressure involved beyond wave banging and vibration. That lid work is now pretty much completed and things seem fine at this point. I even used up some old waxed resin, knowing another layer was not going to be applied and that too seems fine. But I did sand everything prior to laying the glass.
Work is progressing. All of the deck lids are now glassed and ready for carpet on one side and renewed gel on the other. Basically had to waterproof the old deck lids with new wood and some glass. Still need to touch-up some yet, but they are 98% done with glass at this point. Motor is removed and sitting at the boat motor repair facility - Merc 800 Thunderbolt - getting repaired. Picking the boat up today, minus the motor, and will start on the cap removal. I've been scratching my head about the cap removal and here's my idea at the moment. I'm planning to drill through the garage ceiling rafters and hang HD threaded eye bolts in the ceiling of the garage. I can also lay reinforcement 2x4 or 4x4's across the floor in the attic to spread the load out a bit more over multiple rafters. Doubt that will be necessary, but it is an option. I'm thinking 2 or 3 centerline ceiling eye bolts (rings), fore and aft, but might use 4 or 6 if necessary for better weight distribution for the cap. Once lifted, I can frame the top cap to keep it from warping, spreading, etc. With a block and tackle or pulley system, I think I can make this a one or two man job. I can also suspend the top cap inside the garage and still open the garage door, provided I keep the eye bolt hangers short of the opened door and the cap lower than the open door. I'll have about 12" of extra room after lifting the live wells, etc., high enough to clear the hull. Hopefully the fore-aft center of gravity is not too far forward (and interfere with the garage door) since the boat will be backed into the garage. But I guess I could hang a counterweight at the rear of the boat if necessary. The boat weighs 600 pounds dry without a motor. I'm guessing the top cap with live wells, steering box, etc., all still attached, the weight might be 250 pounds, or so. My other option is to take the top cap to an empty 10' x 30' storage building, but moving it seems like it would be more trouble than hanging it in the garage. Sound too crazy? Opinions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. I'll attach more pictures soon.
Thanks for your help. This is my first go at this. I really appreciate your comments. I worked like the devil trying to get the steering supports and carpet loose in that area. Problem was nuts on the back of bolts with virtually no access. Ended up cutting them all loose. Was going to add new wood anyway, so no problem. I now have all the rivets out of the rub rail and have started to lift the cap. Each corner had been glued and the rear port corner is stuck in one small place. I used some heat on it today, but no luck. Hopefully, I don't have to cut it loose and re-glass that area. I added my first ceiling hook, attached a small block and tackle, plus some hydraulic jack pressure underneath, but still no luck in one small area. The rear starboard corner came loose after some mild and over time persuasion with a hydraulic jack. As you can see from the hole displacements in the pictures, the sides are free and both rear corners are free with exception of the one spot. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to try to crawl (tight) back to the transom and see if I can find some adhesive to remove. Thanks again for your help and, as always, comments are greatly appreciated.
