Monmouth's 1979 Starcraft Kingfisher Rebuild

[Monmouth00]

Can you post a picture or two?

It's all taped up because I'm painting right now. Once it's unmasked, I'll snap some pictures.

Thanks!

 

[Watermann]

Remove center cap, back off the center nut but leave a few threads on, grasp and pull on the wheel while someone raps on the center nut with a hammer. The steering wheel should pop off. Careful when taking the wheel off not to loose the woodruff key if so equipped.

 

[Monmouth00]

Unfortunately, there's no center cap. There's no way to pry that up, and I'm afraid if i try I'll damage it.

There's a small opening at the back of the column where it looks like there may be access to hardware, but I don't see any. I'll try to get a better pic when it's unmasked.

You can see underneath that there are three bolts holding the wheel on. They spin freely when I try to remove the bolts.

Any thoughts?

 

[66Holiday924]

There has to be a seam or something somewhere so that you can pry that center piece off. Once you do that second me on what Watermann said. make sure you are hitting the backed out nut and not the threaded stud. bang it a few time and it will break loose.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah there's a way, that is the same center cap on my original SS wheel. The tabs that hold it in are on the ends so there should be a pry spot on the end at the center where you can get a thin prying implement in.

 

[Watermann]

Well looking closer, I'm not sure they wheels and caps are identical, but they are similar. Mine has a SC logo on it.

 

[Monmouth00]

Well looking closer, I'm not sure they wheels and caps are identical, but they are similar. Mine has a SC logo on it.

Pretty sure that center piece is solid all the way around, without any place to pry it up. But I'll look again.

I'm less concerned with removing it if I could just make it look nicer while it's still attached.

Can I sand it? Oil it? Anything to make it look like it's not 40 years old?

 

[Watermann]

Not that I know of, plastic of that era deteriorates and will continue to do so. I don't know about oiling a steering wheel, it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I started work on my old one too and gave up on it as it just looked old no matter what I did.

 

[Decker83]

Try looking under the steering wheel and see if there is some attaching screws or some type of tabs..
The nut that holds the wheel in place is behind the center piece..

 

[Monmouth00]

I haven't gotten a chance to screw around with the steering wheel much since my last post. I think I'm just going to clean it up as best as I can. I don't need to be adding to be "to do" list right now. If I want the boat back in the water by spring, it's going to take a pretty good effort anyway.

I've hit a design problem that I'm still working through. The original plan was to keep the front bench in place, and put a flip-up top on it. From there, a raised casting deck (flush with the underside of the rails) would extend to the bow. I bought two really nice flush mount doors that were supposed to go on top of the casting deck - once for the anchor and line, the other for throw floats and vests.

Well, my wife and kids go into me about not having a seat in the bow. My 4.5 yr old and my wife particularly, who don't see the point of having a boat if they can't ride on the bow as we're motoring around.

So, I thought maybe I'd just lower the casting deck to the same height as the bench, but after installing a pedestal for the seat, I won't have room for the $120 worth of doors that I wanted to install. (they look really flash!)

I'm set on keeping the flip-up storage bench. I need storage for tackle boxes and vests. I hate tripping over stuff on the floor. I also want to keep the family happy - it's the least I can do since they've been so patient an understanding since I started obsessing over this project.

All this to say - anybody want to buy some doors?

The floor should go in this weekend (weather permitting), which will allow me to better visualize/measure the layout.

Fingers crossed that the 4.5yr old princess gets her throne, and Daddy gets to keep his doors.

 

[Monmouth00]

Oh, and I was hoping for some help, of course.

I need to replace my capacity plate. Mine got sandblasted to h*ll when they stripped the boat.

I found these guys: https://garzonstudio.com/boat/capacity-decal.html but they need a picture of a Kingfisher data plate.

BWR1953 - you don't happen to have a picture of your capacity plate, do you?

Many thanks!!

 

[BWR1953]

Oh, and I was hoping for some help, of course.

I need to replace my capacity plate. Mine got sandblasted to h*ll when they stripped the boat.

I found these guys: https://garzonstudio.com/boat/capacity-decal.html but they need a picture of a Kingfisher data plate.

BWR1953 - you don't happen to have a picture of your capacity plate, do you?

Many thanks!!

Here ya go! Brand new fresh pic for ya.

 

[Monmouth00]

Here ya go! Brand new fresh pic for ya.

YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

Thanks so much, BWR! Much Appreciated!!!

 

[Watermann]

Not sure that the KF boats were ever though of as a bowrider type craft, more so a fishing boat. Bow riding can be dangerous, especially for a small child with nothing to keep them in when you hit a wake and the bow gets a double or triple jarring bounce. It's enough to send them over the side and there's no way to avoid running them over. It's a horrific thought I know but I've seen the sight and it scares me when I see people in bigger bow riders letting their small kids ride up in the bow. My .02 anyway on that subject.

 

[BWR1953]

YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

Thanks so much, BWR! Much Appreciated!!!

My pleasure!

I agree with WM about the bowrider aspect. Please don't. These little KF boats are not designed for passengers up front. And the hull design is very "tippy" from side to side. Not a good combination in a bowrider.

My $0.02.

 

[fishrdan]

Not sure if you have the deck panels down yet, but the finishing washers you showed have a sharp outer edge, might cut a nice hole in your new vinyl... I used truss head screws.

I used 3M Laundau top and trim adhesive for my vinyl, you need a cup gun to shoot it, sprayable, comes in gallon and 5 gallons. I used 3-4 gallons on my boat (bought 5 gallons), but I have a lot more vinyl.

My capacity plate was missing too. I ordered a brass plaque through Staples or Office Depot with all the info, cost $6-8. Hit it with a couple coats of clear lacquer, still looks great 7 years later. It doesn't look like a "manufacturer" capacity plate, but I have been inspected several times and the LOE's didn't complain about it.

 

[Monmouth00]

My pleasure!

I agree with WM about the bowrider aspect. Please don't. These little KF boats are not designed for passengers up front. And the hull design is very "tippy" from side to side. Not a good combination in a bowrider.

My $0.02.

Thanks, Gents. I understand what you're saying, and appreciate the concern.

So, here's the compromise that I've come to: There will be no casting deck. The front bench will remain, on top of which I will place a seat. It will be centered in the boat, and well below the rails. If my kids do happen to tip out of it, they'll land in the boat for sure.

Keep in mind that I have a 25 hp O/B (masquerading as a 9.8) and am rarely ever up on plane. The inland lakes I fish on are hp-restricted to 9.9 hp, and in order to not draw any attention to myself (and my obviously oversized O/B), I putter along from fishing spot to fishing spot. My wife and daughter only ever join us now and again, and when it's just me and the boy, he rides next to me.

Elimination of the casting deck does a lot for the timeline, and for the budget. Keeping the front bench is the best solution. And truthfully, we'd never really use the casting deck. I don't bass fish much. There's no real structure in the lakes I fish, so the bass are hard to find anyway. Fabrication was going to mean a lot of money for angle aluminum, time wasted in engineering and construction, and even more time wasted cutting, sealing and carpeting a deck.

It also solves my problem about the storage. I can hinge the front bench with the seat on it, and still have a beam-width of storage underneath. An angled piece of ply under the existing Kingfisher nose cap will leave room for my anchor and line, and allow me to use at least one of the fancy hatches I bought.

Feeling a bit better about how it's progressing. Look at this next post:

 

[Monmouth00]

The floor got laid in the boat! I'm so excited. I really feel like the project has turned a corner. I feel like I'm building now, rather than fixing.

Fishrdan, I haven't screwed her down yet, but I'll keep an eye on the vinyl as I do. It's pretty tough Nautolex, so I don't anticipate too much of a problem. Fingers crossed the finish washers don't cause any damage.

I have 23/32" plywood, and opted for 1.5" stainless sheet metal screws. I'm going to pre-drill before sinking the screws, and make sure everything is coated really nicely in 5200. Hoping that 1/2" of grab into the ribs will be enough to keep everything in place. I could have gone longer with the screws, but had nightmares about driving them right through the bottom of the boat.

Unfortunately, we're in the midst of a 5" snowfall in NJ right now, so I don't know when I'll get to it. It'll be sunny and mid-30's tomorrow, but the 5200 doesn't flow well in cold weather.

I just want to get this think off to the metal guy for the rear bench fabrication!

Thanks, Guys!

 

[66Holiday924]

That looks sharp! I would be feeling good too.

 

[BWR1953]

Thanks, Gents. I understand what you're saying, and appreciate the concern.

So, here's the compromise that I've come to: There will be no casting deck. The front bench will remain, on top of which I will place a seat. It will be centered in the boat, and well below the rails. If my kids do happen to tip out of it, they'll land in the boat for sure.

Keep in mind that I have a 25 hp O/B (masquerading as a 9.8) and am rarely ever up on plane. The inland lakes I fish on are hp-restricted to 9.9 hp, and in order to not draw any attention to myself (and my obviously oversized O/B), I putter along from fishing spot to fishing spot. My wife and daughter only ever join us now and again, and when it's just me and the boy, he rides next to me.

Elimination of the casting deck does a lot for the timeline, and for the budget. Keeping the front bench is the best solution. And truthfully, we'd never really use the casting deck. I don't bass fish much. There's no real structure in the lakes I fish, so the bass are hard to find anyway. Fabrication was going to mean a lot of money for angle aluminum, time wasted in engineering and construction, and even more time wasted cutting, sealing and carpeting a deck.

It also solves my problem about the storage. I can hinge the front bench with the seat on it, and still have a beam-width of storage underneath. An angled piece of ply under the existing Kingfisher nose cap will leave room for my anchor and line, and allow me to use at least one of the fancy hatches I bought.

Feeling a bit better about how it's progressing. Look at this next post:

Sounds like a plan to me! Win, win, win all around. And your kids always wear their PFDs, right? I make "the boy" wear his all the time. Well, he likes wearing it, even when it's stifling hot. :joyous: