Monmouth's 1979 Starcraft Kingfisher Rebuild

[Monmouth00]

According to my guy, and literature he gave me, it has minimal off-gassing. The only real smell was from the MEK.

The real concern would be if it was atomized. I didn't spray it, I rolled it.

My exposure was limited to about an hour over a whole day.

Thanks for your concern, but I don't think I'm in too much trouble.

 

[Watermann]

PPE is pretty cheap, pick up a respirator since you have more toxic work to do. Dust masks won't help much. ainkiller:

 

[MD28]

You could always smoke a cigarette seeing as they have filters. Nice work so far! Mind if I follow along? Im redoing my splashwell now in my 18 superfisherman. I like the idea of the acces door on the top.

 

[66Holiday924]

A 3M Respirator with the pink filters rated for particulate are about $10 on eBay and you can buy the filters 30 at a time cheap on eBay also. I would invest in a respirator if you do a lot of DIY type projects. This one project probably won't hurt you. It's the project every other month or so for thirty years that starts hurting you. for $20...

 

[Monmouth00]

You could always smoke a cigarette seeing as they have filters. Nice work so far! Mind if I follow along? Im redoing my splashwell now in my 18 superfisherman. I like the idea of the acces door on the top.

No problem, please come along for the ride. I'm not sure how much you'll learn from me - I'm a total novice who doesn't even know when to use PPE.

I'm not sure I'm doing the access door at the back anymore. The fellas have me worried about ventilation. I may leave it open, I may not. Once the floor is re-installed, I'll meet with my metal guy and see what's possible.

I want the boat to be nice, but also am trying to stick to a budget. I have to be real abut the fact that it's only ever going to be used on flat water for lazy fishing. It really doesn't need to be all that fancy.

 

[Monmouth00]

Alright, everyone - help me solve a problem.

I've bought some very nice Nautolex vinyl for the floor. They recommend using the Nautolex 88 adhesive, which I've just been told by the manufacturer won't adhere well to the Suprasec floor.

How do I get my vinyl glued down?

I could theoretically used industrial strength double-sided tape to hold it in place while I stretched and stapled it on the underside. Then, when it goes into the boat, it's going to be screwed to the floor at each stringer end, and down the middle. Is this going to keep in from bubbling and wrinkling over time? I'm not convinced.

It's a light grey, so I'm concerned about using something that will leach color through over time.

Any suggestions from those much more experienced than me?

Thanks,!

 

[Decker83]

Some of the guys have used the contact cement. Check with watermann, he used a spray on glue that he liked really well.
Take a piece of plywood scrap and coat it with the Suprasec and try different glues and see with one works the best.
Make sure it doesn't stain the vinyl or destroy it..

 

[Watermann]

I used the 3M 80 for rubber and vinyl. I would try it with a scrap piece of the stuff and a piece of the vinyl just to see how well it adheres. I guess you could ask 3M but I'm pretty sure just like Nautolex they have no idea and say that it won't adhere well as to be on the safe side.

 

[Monmouth00]

I used the 3M 80 for rubber and vinyl. I would try it with a scrap piece of the stuff and a piece of the vinyl just to see how well it adheres. I guess you could ask 3M but I'm pretty sure just like Nautolex they have no idea and say that it won't adhere well as to be on the safe side.

Awesome. I'll pick up a can at Home Depot and give it a shot this weekend.

How many cans did it take to do your floor?

$14 a can. Another unexpected expense! Good thing I tore up my budget spreadsheet a long time ago.

 

[Watermann]

I think the base deck took 2.5 cans, it total I think I used 4 cans between upper and lower decks. I would make sure it works good enough for you on the surface, the cans are big though but yeah 15 a can.

 

[Monmouth00]

I'll start with one can for a tester. I have a small section from the bow that I can test it on.

Fingers crossed that it adheres, and doesn't stain through my nice new vinyl.

 

[Watermann]

The 80 adhesive won't bleed through, at least mine hasn't. Make sure you have a good vinyl roller and when you have wrap pieces, don't do the warp over and stapling for at least a couple hours to keep the vinyl from bubbling.

 

[Monmouth00]

The floor was pieced together using some 12" plywood that I had sealed with the Suprasec. I used stainless screws, but forgot about my plan to cover them in 5200 before screwing the floor pieces together. I'm not too stressed. This floor will probably outlast my use of the boat anyway.

Used the 3M 80 vinyl adhesive after a successful test on the small nose piece. I ended up using 4 full cans.Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not thrilled with the way it turned out. I got the garage up to 70 degrees, but probably should have let the vinyl warm up a lot more before gluing it down. There are definitely places where, despite rolling over it with a seam smoother for several minutes at a time, it just wouldn't stay stuck. There are places here and there where, when the light hits it right, you can tell it's not perfectly smooth. Gladly most of those spots will be covered with benches or decks. Still, I'm pretty disappointed I didn't do it right.

Some buddies are coming over to help me lift the whole floor into the boat next weekend.

The plan is to screw it down and get it to my metal guy by Sunday. I found wood-metal self tapping screws from Teks that are supposed to be pretty good. Has anyone used them?

Can I get away with just using regular stainless self-tapping screws? The last guy used them, I think, along with something I'm calling "grommets" (because I don't know what they're really called). Little donut-shaped rings that the screw head rests on? Anyway, can I use stainless with the grommets?

Also, should I sink a few in the middle aluminum that stretches down the keel, or just sink them in the ends of the ribs?

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[MD28]

I suppose the self tappers would work. You just have to make really sure you hit the right spot with them and not miss the rib or stringer. Most of us it seems use counterbore set rivets under the vinyl. You are past being able to do that so have at it with the screws. The grommets are finish washers I bet. They need to be stainless as well. I’d recommend putting some 5200 or 4200 on the shank of your screw to seal it in place and to keep those screws from popping as they seem to do after time. You wouldn’t want water to get in there either. I would definitely run them into the middle stringer otherwise you might get a bounce or a rattle to it in the middle of the boat where you will walk the most.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah 90% + of us use large flange rivets to attach our decking back to the ribs and stringers.

You assembled the entire deck out of the boat and laid the vinyl on, so now you'll lift it in the boat? Never have seen that before, trying to picture it.

 

[Monmouth00]

Going to give it a try with the self tapping screws. The donuts I was talking about are called "Finishing Washers". Go figure.

Yes, the floor is all assembled outside of the boat. The vinyl got glued, wrapped over the edges and glued/stapled strategically.

Two guys on either side will be able to pick the floor up, and approaching from the stern, walk the floor forward before laying it into the boat.

I can't remember where I saw it, but somebody on here assembled the floor before install. It made sense to me, because I hated the gaps in the floorboard, and wanted to wrap the vinly over the edge for a bit more water protection. (which I voided by whacking 250 staples into the underside)

If none of this works, you guys are free to use me as an example of what not to do. Wouldn't be the first time.

More pics this weekend!

 

[Watermann]

Hey it's how you want it to be, I get it some don't like the seams on pre-wrapped vinyl deck sections. I used those finish washers on the top covers of my Chief's seat boxes.

Just make sure you have the rib ends and deck support stringer(s) accurately marked/measured so you don't end up with too many shiners which we all end up doing anyway. :lol:

 

[Monmouth00]

Hey it's how you want it to be, I get it some don't like the seams on pre-wrapped vinyl deck sections. I used those finish washers on the top covers of my Chief's seat boxes.

Just make sure you have the rib ends and deck support stringer(s) accurately marked/measured so you don't end up with too many shiners which we all end up doing anyway. :lol:

Yes! Marking and measuring to the best of my simple abilities! Hoping to hit my mark more than 80% accuracy!

 

[nrf414]

Yes! Marking and measuring to the best of my simple abilities! Hoping to hit my mark more than 80% accuracy!

I'm looking forward to getting the floor in. Measure 3x cut once right? I hope so.

looking good Monmouth00. Soon you will be fishing again enjoying your work!

 

[66Holiday924]

For me it's usually measure twice cut once, ruin the board, go back to the hardware store, get another board, measure five times cut once leaving some Slop, measure again, cut the slop off, drink a victory beer.