Mercury 2+2 introduced?

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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May 12, 2014
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In the market for a HP upgrade from my 1982 70hp Mercury. 705lb hull is rated to 115hp. What is the late 80's/early 90's preferred 90-115hp option. I hear mixed reviews on the 2+2 models and would prefer to stay away from them. Have also heard about a 3cyl 90hp, but not sure what model years that would be referring too. Looking for a reliable outboard for an early 80's 18' fishing boat. Thanks!
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
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15,904
2+2 are good motors as long as propped correctly and used for light water sports. Riding and fishing they are great.
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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Well I bought a 2002 90 in 2004 and kept it about 12 years and gave it away....local fire rescue team. In deciding I wasn't out of boating after all, year before last I bought another 2002 rig, this time with the 2+2 115. I did my usual diddling with things to suit me and I am extremely happy with it. Part of the bad reports you hear about them is the operator's doing.....understanding how they work and in doing so, developing an operational methodology that works in tune with how the engine operates. I see no reason why water sports would be any problem...again, operator understanding how things work. I'd use mine for skiing in a New York Minute....that's a Texans joke as our experience with NY natives is that they are in a hurry, especially in lip movement and you have to keep slowing them down so that you can understand what they are saying.......Grin. Course the Meterologists on Dish channel 215 can probably flap their yappers as fast as anybody.....I can't believe how many words those folks can get out in a heart beat. Grin #2.

I think these engines are about as bullet proof as you can get. Nice and simple, reliable design, long production record, lots of cheap parts out there, owner can maintain it with minimum tools and all.....
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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May 12, 2014
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So consensus would be to not shy away from a 2+2 model if I found a good motor. I'm looking for a 90-115hp around '83-'84 or newer. My understanding is the 115hp went prop rated sometime in '83 (SN above 5829464) and the newer integrated power trim unit came out in '84. 90hp prop rated around '82 (SN above 5299506). Sound about right?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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37,818
They marketed the 4 cylinder 2+2 for quite a few years.-------If there was something wrong it would have had a 2 or 3 year production run.-----But the selling / installing dealer needs to be aware of this motor.-----Perhaps not the correct motor for say a pontoon boat where owner might select 1600 / 1800 RPM cruising speed.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,666
The engine runs on 2 cylinders operating while at the lower speeds. I assume the designers designed this function for Great Lakes trolling or such where the majority of the outing is trolling....fuel economy in mind. The lower 2 cylinders get fuel mix but not enough to light off and produce power....just lube.
The spark/fuel linkage is setup to bring all cylinders on line, providing power, at around 1800-2000 RPM. Depending on several things, the transition could be hardly noticed.

As Faztbullet said, you need to under prop...use less pitch than you would use under identical circumstances with a regular 4 cylinder engine, to get your engine RPMs up before you really need full power. Hole shot needs to be firewalling the throttle with the engine "tucked in" go help in getting the bow of the boat down to bring the stern up to aid in acceleration until you get the skier up on the water. Then you can cut the throttle and trim out to a position that brings the bow up slightly for best performance. Speed depends upon the qualifications of your skier and other non related things.

Being under propped, expect to hit your 5250 RPM revolution limiter ( a little module in the engine in the 4 cylinder engines) at a lower speed than would be the case if you had a prop installed for a non-water sport application and lightly loaded boat. It only takes a few minutes to change props so having a "speed" prop handy isn't unusual...I have such....and prop nut torque is 55 ft-lbs.

Other thing on the prop is the design. You want to get through the transition region as soon as possible to get all 4 cylinders on line in addition to getting RPMs up as fast as is reasonable considering other things. One thing that helps that is to get a "ported" prop...holes in the barrel just under the leading edge of each blade. In aluminum, Turning Point Hustler makes such...in SS, lots of folks. Porting the prop gives the advantage of exhaust gasses added to "new water" in the prop slipstream reducing the resistance into which the engine is trying to accelerate allowing it to accelerate faster.

Since HP is {Torque X RPMs)/5252 you want your RPMs up fast to cause both to rise fast and get your skier up out of the hole and on the water fast. Once up and running, the holes will seal off with flow by water pressure and your RPMs will drop down as your speed is increasing, prop locking in, and then increase as speed increases just like the holes weren't there. I think a 3 blade ported prop would be your best option, diameter is determined by your lower unit size....13 to 13+" on that 115 lower unit, and pitch to suit your usage... on a 750# hull and a couple of folks with a 3rd in the water, a 17-19" pitch leaning toward the 19 for your application would be a good starting point if I were doing the buying. The Hustlers sell on this site for about a hundred bucks. You can miss your target and redirect without spending too much money on a closer guess if you miss....performance testing is the only way to really know what prop works with what engine/boat/usage situation. Just remember for the holes to work best for you, when the skier gives you the nod, engine tucked in, and FIREWALL the throttle.
 

MercGuy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 20, 2006
Messages
195
So consensus would be to not shy away from a 2+2 model if I found a good motor. I'm looking for a 90-115hp around '83-'84 or newer. My understanding is the 115hp went prop rated sometime in '83 (SN above 5829464) and the newer integrated power trim unit came out in '84. 90hp prop rated around '82 (SN above 5299506). Sound about right?

I bought my 1998 115 2+2 new in 1999 as a package on my 18 foot SeaRay bowrider.

I have over 1,300 hours on it and as others have said, it has been bullet proof. The only thing I've ever done that I would consider out of the ordinary is I replaced the exhaust cover gaskets. Other than that a few impellers and a few sets of spark plugs is it.

There can be some stumbling during the transition from 2 to 4 cylinders. The primary cause of this is when the user slowly opens the throttle. There is an accelerator pump to juice #3 & 4 and the throttle needs to be moved aggressively for the pump to be effective.

There is also a speed where the engine simply can't decide between running on 2 or 4 cylinders. On my boat, with my prop, that is right before coming up on plane, so it isn't a speed I would want to maintain anyway.

With a crisp push of the throttle it will generally light up and go. If your engine isn't in tuned properly there can be hesitation while 3 & 4 stumble for a second.

Having said all that I have had times where I plunge the throttle wide open and it stumbles and bogs for a second and then catches. That problem seems to happen more often after long periods of trolling at slow speeds before opening it up.

One thing that I have noticed is that this engine seems to be sensitive to restrictions of the fuel flow. Once I changed the fuel line from my built in fuel tank to the engine and I left a coil of 3 or 4 extra feet of line down at the tank. I noticed that it stumbled more frequently during the transition. Cutting out that extra line made a noticeable improvement.

I'm happy with my 2+2 and I'll continue running it as long as it will continue to provide reliable service. If I had to replace it I wouldn't hesitate to get another 2+2
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
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Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,150
I was basically given a '01 125 2+2 for a small fee and basically getting it off the owners boat so he could put a 90 'zuki on his boat.. He hated the 2+2 and the surge when the other 2 cylinders lit up. He could not troll the way he wanted to with it.. I never ran it before making a little money on it. Too big for the boat I was going to use it on
 

huggyb1972

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 1, 2013
Messages
237
I've had 2 of them one on a 89 searay 160 and the other was a 93 that I put on a engine bracket for a 19' aluminum. The 89 is a mid 50 mph boat but you'll kill a skier when the power kicks in and it rips the rope from your hands. The 19' was a 42 mph boat completely different so smooth the 1st skier I tried with it had never skied before and was on the water the 1st try. That 89 I've literally had time to gather rope after popping up just trying to maintain speed waiting for it, then bam!
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
Messages
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I bought my 1998 115 2+2 new in 1999 as a package on my 18 foot SeaRay bowrider.

I have over 1,300 hours on it and as others have said, it has been bullet proof. The only thing I've ever done that I would consider out of the ordinary is I replaced the exhaust cover gaskets. Other than that a few impellers and a few sets of spark plugs is it.

There can be some stumbling during the transition from 2 to 4 cylinders. The primary cause of this is when the user slowly opens the throttle. There is an accelerator pump to juice #3 & 4 and the throttle needs to be moved aggressively for the pump to be effective.

There is also a speed where the engine simply can't decide between running on 2 or 4 cylinders. On my boat, with my prop, that is right before coming up on plane, so it isn't a speed I would want to maintain anyway.

With a crisp push of the throttle it will generally light up and go. If your engine isn't in tuned properly there can be hesitation while 3 & 4 stumble for a second.

Having said all that I have had times where I plunge the throttle wide open and it stumbles and bogs for a second and then catches. That problem seems to happen more often after long periods of trolling at slow speeds before opening it up.

One thing that I have noticed is that this engine seems to be sensitive to restrictions of the fuel flow. Once I changed the fuel line from my built in fuel tank to the engine and I left a coil of 3 or 4 extra feet of line down at the tank. I noticed that it stumbled more frequently during the transition. Cutting out that extra line made a noticeable improvement.

I'm happy with my 2+2 and I'll continue running it as long as it will continue to provide reliable service. If I had to replace it I wouldn't hesitate to get another 2+2
"Having said all that I have had times where I plunge the throttle wide open and it stumbles and bogs for a second and then catches. That problem seems to happen more often after long periods of trolling at slow speeds before opening it up."

I solved that problem by tilting the engine up slightly when running on 2 and replacing the OEM plugs with NGK Iridiums (NGK BPR6HIX, NGK Stock # 4085). How much tilt? The engine tells me...10-15* does it. I say I'm doing something and cut back to slow speed, idle or thereabouts the engine has a slight mechanical back and forth vibration, not much but it's there....it IS an alternate firing twin at that speed you know. I tilt the engine up a few degrees and it smooths out such that if you didn't hear it and see the prop wash, you'd swear it wasn't running. Seems years ago Mercury proved that tilting prevents pooling of unburned fuel in the area of the spark plugs and reduces fouling.

The Iridiums don't foul like the conventional gappers do from running on 2 so there is no cleanup once on plane.

On the throttle positioning, I usually run in the 25-25 MPH area. On the hole shot, I advance the throttle to probably ¾ position, let the boat come up on plane, nice and smooth, moderate RPM buildup, and as the bow drops, I cut the throttle back to around 2500-3000....nice and smooth process.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 8, 2014
Messages
8,092
I had my 125 2+2 motor for 15 yrs. I propped it to hit 5250 rpm and never had a problem with it. I used it for skiing tubing and fishing and never had a problem with the transition
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,666
So what was the first production year for the 2+2 ?
I'd say a production run of 17 years with minor upgrades (for that whole series of engines....60 HP Jet thru 125 HP pretty much defines the word "Quality"......survives the test of time...... and electronics (fuel injection and EPA) shut it down....opinion. I accidentally purchased an Optimax serv. manual when I bought my engine and went back and got the right one. Looking at the differences for a shade tree mechanic that I must be, I'll take that sucker any day.
 

Johnson110

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 31, 2003
Messages
640
I thought that the first 4 cylinder 115 hp was in 1989, The 1988 list a six cylinder!
 

MercGuy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 20, 2006
Messages
195
"Having said all that I have had times where I plunge the throttle wide open and it stumbles and bogs for a second and then catches. That problem seems to happen more often after long periods of trolling at slow speeds before opening it up."

I solved that problem by tilting the engine up slightly when running on 2 and replacing the OEM plugs with NGK Iridiums (NGK BPR6HIX, NGK Stock # 4085)....

The Iridiums don't foul like the conventional gappers do from running on 2 so there is no cleanup once on plane.

Thanks for the tip Texasmark. I notice that the OEM plugs (BP8H-N-10) are a heat range 8 vs the plugs you recommend are a heat range 6. Is there anything to be concerned about with that difference ?

I looked at the NGK website and they mentioned that going colder is safe, but going hotter can be dangerous. The BPR6HIX is hotter than the OEM BP8H-N-10
 
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