Materials List (First time resto, 92 GW Invader Deck Boat) [Splashed Aug 2019]

[Fcdave]

-hangdogger51.....ya, last place you want water seeping in is the drain, which is alway underwater! Thats why its best to oversize hole and seal endgrain of ply with primer and PB and then drill final hole to fit tube.....the 5200 will seal all the hardware well.

 

[hangdogger512]

Aye, finally back to getting some work done on this project. Family vacation, work projects, and life took the last month by storm! :-(

But, transom is in... went pretty well, but as it was my first time working with 1708, I learned the pains of getting that fabric to lay down and stay down! Seems like it took constant rolling for 8-10min to get it to stay adhered to the CSM layer. And I still ended up with some bubble pockets. :-( Ah well, way stronger than it was.

And Stringers/bulkheads are in now too, with CSM tabbing and the first layer of 1708... I took a lot of time on the layout. First laying everything out in cardboard to get rough dimensions. Then, cut out the ply a little wider than the cardboard to have error room. After that I built a jig to hold everything upright in the appropriate locations using 2x4's supported by the deck edge that I left around the ring of the hull. For templating, I mounted the stringers directly to the bottom of the jig so they hovered about 0.5 off the hull. Then, I used a compass pencil set at 1" to trace the hull shape onto the stringers. Then I cut the stringers at the traced line... thus when set directly down on the hull (w/ an 1/8" spacers underneath) they would end up 7/8" below the 2x4 template deck line... perfect for setting the 3/4" deck down with some fiber layers. This worked out very well, as when I placed the stringers back in, they were perfectly level and I was able to tack them together and remove the jig to bed them in. I used some 1" strips of 1/8" foam to space the stringers up just off the hull bottom for the PB to bed underneath. All in all, took a lot of time, but very happy with the turnout.

Here are some pics:

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you pre-coat all the wood with resin before you applied the 1708? Fabrication looks good!!!​

 

[hangdogger512]

Did you pre-coat all the wood with resin before you applied the 1708? Fabrication looks good!!!​

Ayuh, sure did. The first layer of 1708 went down well actually, it was the second layer that I actually had more issues with. Perhaps I should have rewet the first layer before laying the second layer? ...the first was still tacky, but definitely not 'wet'.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup you Always apply fresh resin before laying glass. That allow resin to come up thru the fabric from the bottom and down thru the top. This keeps air pockets from forming.

 

[hangdogger512]

Makes sense Woodonglass ... Luckily I only made that mistake once, and worked my ass off dumping resin on it and rolling... So I think it ended up alright! Ha.

​

 

[hangdogger512]

I have never been so happy to be done grinding on something... ... it was a solid 94deg weekend here in TN, and I was in my Tyvek suit, full face ventilator, inside a plastic tent, inside a carport grinding away at the deck lip around the hull! Ugh. But alas it is done, and I am probably 10 lbs lighter!

*** Few more bubbles than I would've liked in the stringer sheets, but they aren't as bad as they look. Nice view of the primed cap in the background also

 

[hangdogger512]

Questions on cutting the deck boards and setting them:
- Should I aim for a small gap between the deck and the hull (1/8-1/4" like the stringers) to keep the edges away, and then fill with PB?
- When setting the deck down, should I attempt to reach under the deck board and fillet the underside edges since there isn't a rail to mount to? Or is the PB fillet on the top enough?

 

[hangdogger512]

Any thoughts on the above? Going to attack laying the deck and pouring foam this weekend!

 

[Mad Props]

A smaller gap will take less PB to fill which means less resin... no need to worry about a gap.. the deck can easily flex in its thickness so it won't create a hard spot.

that being said, a small gap will ensure you have room for pb to be pushed into. I'd shoot for perfection and then you'll be perfect when you end up with gaps. :lol:

 

[hangdogger512]

I'd shoot for perfection and then you'll be perfect when you end up with gaps. :lol:

Fair enough! That is a wise statement, thank you sir.

 

[hangdogger512]

OK, been awhile since I posted a progress report... so here goes:

- Deck went down with no issues. 1 layer CSM on bottom, 2 layers CSM/1 layer 1708/1 layer CSM on top, plus 1708 tabbing.
- Drilled holes and foamed the entire hull after the first layer of top CSM went down (took approx 32lbs of 2lb foam)
- Painted the deck and motor well with 3 coats of gel coat. Went on fantastically.
- Test fit the motor and gimbal housing.... no issues
- Engine updates: Replaced all ignition components (coil, dist., rotor, wires, plugs), rebuilt starter and alternator, new belts, added oil drain kit, new oil filter and oil, new fuel filter, new thermostat.
- Painted the cap, seat bases, and consoles (primed, then sprayed 4 coats of enamel per wog's Sticky)... not so pleased with this result. Bought a new HPLV gun and had a hard time getting a good finish, and it still seems very prone to scratching... but I'm picky, it looks pretty good overall. Would do gel coat if I had to do it again.
- Final mounted gimbal and dropped in the motor. Aligned and tightened to spec. Smooth sailing!
- Got the cap situated above the hull, and dry fit the seat bases and consoles.

Next up:
- Paint the hull stripe. Going with enamel again, this time a nice dark blue.
- Then, I'll set the cap and begin mounting everything down.
- Last big repair will be going thru the drive to replace seals, bearings, and water pump.
- Then, adding some Bennett Bolt trim tabs.

Wish me luck... might actually splash this thing before winter gets here! ;-)

 

[kcon]

Wow, look at you go! Killing it, looks great!

 

[hangdogger512]

Thanks kcon

I'm killing something... mainly my weekends and wallet!

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you use the proper amount of hardener in the paint and let it cook per the formula! What Gun did you use? What tip size? How much reducer/Thinner did you use? What thinner DID you use? Has it been in Direct sunlight since you shot it? what was the Temp and Humidity at the time you shot it?

 

[hangdogger512]

Did you use the proper amount of hardener in the paint and let it cook per the formula! What Gun did you use? What tip size? How much reducer/Thinner did you use? What thinner DID you use? Has it been in Direct sunlight since you shot it? what was the Temp and Humidity at the time you shot it?

I used the Majic hardender and the Majic reducer, mixed as follows:
16 oz Paint
4 oz reducer
1 oz hardener

Cook for 20-30min.

After the first two coats taking a long time to cure, I upped the hardener to 1.5 oz. Did better, but not great.

Gun is a Meditool HVLP with a 1.4 tip.

I'm in Southeastern TN so weather has been in the 90's but we have been getting dumped on with rain... So humidity has been really, really high. No direct sun on the cap till last week, since then it has been uncovered.

 

[hangdogger512]

Would love your insight Woodonglass as I am sure it is user error at some stage... Been about 20 years since I last used a spray gun!

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok I see your problem. With the High Humidity and no sunlight it Will take a bit longer for cure. I would recommend using 2oz per 16oz in High Humidity conditions and then get it in the sun ASAP!!

UPDATE: I called the tech support at Valspar and they stated they now recommend a 8-4-1 ratio for the Formula.
i.e. 8 oz of paint, 4 oz of Reducer and 1oz of Hardener. Soooo, My formula is NOT VALID any longer. It should be 1oz of Hardener per 8 oz Cup of Paint and 2-4 oz of reducer per 8oz cup of paint. this could explain the accounts of the paint not properly hardening. I'm Sorry for this and will soon have the mods make this correction on my thread. Please accept my apologies for NOT staying on top of this. Good News is the Paint WILL eventually harden especially in the sun. Just takes longer. :facepalm::frusty:

 

[hangdogger512]

Ok I see your problem. With the High Humidity and no sunlight it Will take a bit longer for cure. I would recommend using 2oz per 160z in High Humidity conditions and then get it in the sun ASAP!!

Gotcha, makes sense on the sunlight... Was trying to keep the dang thing dry, but didn't contemplate the effect on curing.

May try to spray one more coat on the cap then to get it good and set. And will spray the hull this week. Thank you!

 

[kcon]

Ok I see your problem. With the High Humidity and no sunlight it Will take a bit longer for cure. I would recommend using 2oz per 16oz in High Humidity conditions and then get it in the sun ASAP!!

UPDATE: I called the tech support at Valspar and they stated they now recommend a 8-4-1 ratio for the Formula.
i.e. 8 oz of paint, 4 oz of Reducer and 1oz of Hardener. Soooo, My formula is NOT VALID any longer. It should be 1oz of Hardener per 8 oz Cup of Paint and 2-4 oz of reducer per 8oz cup of paint. this could explain the accounts of the paint not properly hardening. I'm Sorry for this and will soon have the mods make this correction on my thread. Please accept my apologies for NOT staying on top of this. Good News is the Paint WILL eventually harden especially in the sun. Just takes longer. :facepalm::frusty:

I can vouch for this lol

Good news is, after a few weeks it hardened up perfectly!