Materials List (First time resto, 92 GW Invader Deck Boat) [Splashed Aug 2019]

[Woodonglass]

You're gunna need a LOT more resin and I'm not sure why you bout a Full Roll of CSM. You're gunna have a lot left over.
It takes 1 gallon of resin to wet out 4 yds of fabric. I'd estimate you'll need 10-15 more gallons of poly resin.

 

[hangdogger512]

You're gunna need a LOT more resin and I'm not sure why you bout a Full Roll of CSM. You're gunna have a lot left over.
It takes 1 gallon of resin to wet out 4 yds of fabric. I'd estimate you'll need 10-15 more gallons of poly resin.

I have a feeling I am over on fabric, which is why I only got 20gal of resin... but at a gallon per 4yds, it does sound like I'll still be short. :-(

As for the full roll of 12" CSM tape, it was a cost based decision. If I had only ordered 40yds, it would cost me $55. Or I could get the 110yd roll for $70... I hedged my $15 that I could probably sell the extra or save it for another adventure!

 

[Woodonglass]

Well I'd probably done the same thing on the CSM.Uhhm I MISSED the fact that you ordered 4-5gallon pails. That should be close. Remember to use a minimum of resin. Less Is Best with polly. I usually roll on a thick layer of resin first and then lay down the glass and use a roller to force the resin up thru the fabric from the bottom side. I then add a bit more resin in areas that don't go clear. Doing it this way I find I use a LOT less resin.with fewer air pockets. Theres a Million ways to lay down resin and cloth. This is just the way I do it.

 

[hangdogger512]

I usually roll on a thick layer of resin first and then lay down the glass and use a roller to force the resin up thru the fabric from the bottom side. .

This sounds like a solid technique, thanks! To clarify... do you use the same mini roller to roll the resin out and to force the resin up after laying the fiber? Or do you roll the resin with a mini roller, then use a bubble/detail roller to force the resin up thru the fabric?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I always used the same roller (no need to ruin 2 rollers instead of 1!) and then hit it with the metal roller to work out bubbles.

 

[Woodonglass]

I use regular roller to roll on the first coat on the wood, then lay the glass and then use the same roller to start and then switch to the bubble buster roller to finish

 

[hangdogger512]

Well, got some grinding done today... taking a break, then back at it tonight. Working on the transom only right now, and will be mocking up my cardboard stringers tomorrow.

So, on this transom, it was a double plywood layer around the keyhole only, then a single layer to the edges of the hull. Was planning on simply repeating that, unless there is good reason to go double all the way?

And on the base, it looks like resin was practically just dumped in, as I am dealing with almost an inch of grinding to get to the base of the wood and appears to be just resin, no fiber. Right now I am simply fanning my grind down to get deep enough to set the new transom, then was planning on refilling the fanned area with PB before filleting. Reasonable plan, or should I grind away all this resin and start flat?

 

[chevymaher]

Almost all the transoms I have seen here were like that. Only double on the keyhole. Mine included.

 

[Woodonglass]

Just grind it until the other transom wood fits. When you install the new wood, use plenty of PB and it will ooze out around the edges and you will fillet it all the way around the new wood. Do a nice neat job on your fillets and when it's time to lay the glass it'll be much easier.

 

[hangdogger512]

Woohoo, glassing supplies are in! And... Transom is cut and looks to be fitting pretty well, and I am about halfway done mocking up my cardboard stringers. Once thats done... a lot more grinding... then hope to be glassing by this weekend.

 

[hangdogger512]

Two questions. Do you carry the aft stringers all the way to the transom? If so, how do you deal with the filleting/tabbing placed in when glassing the transom in place?

Second, my motor compartment had a sort of fiberglass liner on it. Appeared to be completely separate from the actual decking... but hard to tell since the deck was so rotted away. There is no reason to put this thing back in, is there?

 

[hangdogger512]

After watching friscoboater's transom install video, I think I may take his approach with the drain, and cut my transom plate up a bit, and just use PB around the drain plug. What do y'all recommend for drain tubes? It had a threaded Garboard type plug, with some sort of rubber sleeve on the inside. Was thinking of replacing it with this Sea Dog Stainless Garboard plug, but what should I use to lead/line to it thru the PB?

 

[hangdogger512]

Rain, rain, rain... non-stop rain here in TN. I had to modify and add-on to "tent city" (as I now refer to my driveway).

I did decide to give my back/feet a rest over the weekend and rather than working on the stringers, I replaced all the rail supports on the cap with new plywood and glass. Figured it would give me a good chance to practice my glassing techniques before bedding the stringers! Went well, and should be able to have the cap repainted and ready by next week... which I hope to do in between bouts of stringer work.

 

[chevymaher]

I like the tent city. Looks all homey and boaty to me.

 

[hangdogger512]

I like the tent city. Looks all homey and boaty to me.

Yeah, and it has that wonderful aroma of poly resin that just makes ya feel all warm inside! :-D

 

[hangdogger512]

Okay, grinding is finally done (pics soon) and new stringers are getting bed in this weekend, and cap paint.

NOW... planning ahead on a few items. Does anyone have any advice/thoughts on trim tabs? I would love to add some while I'm doing all this work. Any brand preferences or sizing help?

 

[kcon]

Awesome! Good to see you're making some traction over there!

So my boat project is, give or take, about the same size as yours (link in my post footer description), and I have had issues with handling, porpoising, listing, and so on. So in what (albeit limited) research I did it seems like Bennett makes excellent and well regarded trim tabs and has great customer service, I've purchased the 12" x 9" hydraulic tabs - which Bennett support said was the best option for my boat length. I got them (on Amazon) for $423.

Though it looks like your hull is a bit unique at the transom, I can't imagine it'd have the clearance for those specific tabs, you can reach out to their customer support and see if they can recommend you a tab model, though I'm sure the same can be said for most other tab manufacturers.

 

[hangdogger512]

Thanks as always, kcon

Yeah, I was wondering about how much clearance will be required... I will reach out to Bennett, but have read a lot about the Lenco systems also. Figured some folks on here would have opinions

 

[Fcdave]

Following...... you are doing a nice job ! ....... i tabbed my transom to the bottom & sides of hull first.....then butt stringers to transom ( 80 grit the area prior to), leaving a space for PB, which i added 1/4" chop to for added strength....then when you glass stringers it gets structurally tabbed to transom. On garboard type drain tube, i would oversized hole, primed with resin, filled with PB, then drill out for drain channel....setting the exterior garboard drain with 5200 in the end. You could take it a step further and use a matching pipe sleeve to the drain flange...also set in 5200....i did the pipe tube sleeve flanged
​on my last transom build.

 

[hangdogger512]

Thanks Fcdave !

This is great info; much appreciated. And actually I bought pipe this week to use as a sleeve to the flange, thinking that might work well! Hadn't considered setting it all with 5200, but that certainly makes sense also.