Making engine beds

[markhodges78]

Ok I removed the 3.0 engine and set an old 4.3 engine I had over in the boat just to see what it would look like... I believe the 4.3 is going to fit nicely. Now it's time to start cleaning the old oil and grease out of the bilge area to get ready to start making the engine beds ...

 

[markhodges78]

This is the location of the engine beds. Should I level this area out with glass to start with a flat pad ?
My next question is should I use a 6x6 to make the beds or should I use plywood sandwiched together and stacked up ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

plywood laminated is going to be much stronger than 6x6 material

 

[markhodges78]

plywood laminated is going to be much stronger than 6x6 material

Yes that is what I was thinking, Laminating with wood glue and compressing should be fine correct ?
Also should I make a flat pad and start from there?

 

[todhunter]

I would just laminate with poly resin, and maybe a sheet of 1.5 oz CSM between each layer. If you want to get fancy, laminate a piece of rot resistant wood (I used Sapele) in between your plywood, and position it so that the lag bolts go into that wood only.

 

[markhodges78]

I would just laminate with poly resin, and maybe a sheet of 1.5 oz CSM between each layer. If you want to get fancy, laminate a piece of rot resistant wood (I used Sapele) in between your plywood, and position it so that the lag bolts go into that wood only.

I like the idea of the rotted resistance wood but how do I make it to where the lag bolts on go into that wood .. should my laminated wood beds be positioned stacked on top of one another and the leg bolt go down through the different layers or should they be positioned side by side and the straight up and down

Thanks in advance

 

[Scott06]

I like the idea of the rotted resistance wood but how do I make it to where the lag bolts on go into that wood .. should my laminated wood beds be positioned stacked on top of one another and the leg bolt go down through the different layers or should they be positioned side by side and the straight up and down

Thanks in advance

Stack them layer by layer would use construction adhesive then bed that whole block into the hill and tab in with fiber glass.

Put the engine on it and get an alignment I used a really long 3/8 spade but at a slight angle to drill through motor mounts into block of wood put some sealant like 3 m 4200

 

[markhodges78]

Stack them layer by layer would use construction adhesive then bed that whole block into the hill and tab in with fiber glass.

Put the engine on it and get an alignment I used a really long 3/8 spade but at a slight angle to drill through motor mounts into block of wood put some sealant like 3 m 4200

1/2 plywood or 3/4 ? Sorry for all the ?s

 

[Scott06]

1/2 plywood or 3/4 ? Sorry for all the ?s

Doesn't matter what ever you have, Its just a built up block of wood in the end. Don't overthink it the boat and driveline is less precisely built than one would think.

 

[todhunter]

I like the idea of the rotted resistance wood but how do I make it to where the lag bolts on go into that wood .. should my laminated wood beds be positioned stacked on top of one another and the leg bolt go down through the different layers or should they be positioned side by side and the straight up and down

Thanks in advance

Start reading my thread from here and you can see how I did mine. The pieces of wood are vertical so the lag only penetrates the sapele. The two pieces of plywood are totally isolated from the sapele by way of CSM between the layers.

 

[markhodges78]

My engine beds need to center out at 6 inches finished it looks like so how much should I allow for the glass layup?

 

[markhodges78]

Not center out I don't know why I put that what I meant was the height needs to be 6 inches finished. Do I make my block 5 3/4 and make up the rest with the glass ?

 

[flashback]

I wouldn't worry to much your mounts are adjustable to a certain extent

 

[markhodges78]

Start reading my thread from here and you can see how I did mine. The pieces of wood are vertical so the lag only penetrates the sapele. The two pieces of plywood are totally isolated from the sapele by way of CSM between the layers.

Hey todhunter I looked through your thread but didn't see if you posted. How many layers of 1708 should I cover the mounts with? I believe if my math is right 8 layers would be about 1/4 inch

Thanks Mark

 

[todhunter]

Hey todhunter I looked through your thread but didn't see if you posted. How many layers of 1708 should I cover the mounts with? I believe if my math is right 8 layers would be about 1/4 inch

Thanks Mark

Mark, I only did 2 layers of 1708 over the mounts. The original mounts in the boat (which were completely fine, but I had to rip them out to replace the stringers) only had one layer of 24 oz woven roving over them. So 2 layers of 1708 was more fiberglass than original, and the original mounts held up fine.

 

[markhodges78]

Mark, I only did 2 layers of 1708 over the mounts. The original mounts in the boat (which were completely fine, but I had to rip them out to replace the stringers) only had one layer of 24 oz woven roving over them. So 2 layers of 1708 was more fiberglass than original, and the original mounts held up fine.

Thanks

 

[markhodges78]

My mounts have been peanut buttered in and it's currently curing but after it's cured should I tab and cover at the same time or tab let set up and then glass in ?

 

[markhodges78]

Also do I tab first ( before I cover the a blocks) or after I cover the blocks

 

[todhunter]

A wet-on-wet application will almost always be stronger. It shouldn't matter tabbing or covering first if you prepped the mounts well (fully covered in resin, no dry spots), but I would probably cover first then tab.

 

[flashback]

Get the stringers in and glass the whole thing as one structure.. much better than pieces... IMO