Loss of power, won't plane

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racerone

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I have done my own boring at friends workshop.----Cost me $25 / hole + set of honing stones and my time for the work.----Pistons / rings and gaskets.----Most bearings can be re-used based on my experience !
 

Beakster

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20230531_203155.jpgwhen installing these new bearings should I pack them with this grease or just use 2 stroke oil?

I am thinking 2 stroke oil is best as the thick grease seems like it will block up the oil holes
 
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Faztbullet

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Use engine assembly or tranny assy grease only as petro/heat will dissolve it nearly instantly. That grease is for wheel bearings!!!
 

ct1762@gmail.com

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how to save money is easy: get a powerhead gasket kit (comes w. upper, lower seals, 0 rings for upper and lower crank heads etc) for $100. now Pro Marine pistons at $70 ea. x 4 so $280. thats a grand total of $380. unelss the bearings are shot, re-use them. they almost never just go bad. Rod screws are like $80. So figure $500 all-in, plus machine work and a water pump/t stats maybe $1200 total.
 

racerone

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I would not use the bearing as pictured in post #42-----Why the new rod bolts as suggested.
 

Beakster

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I would not use the bearing as pictured in post #42-----Why the new rod bolts as suggested.
Those are the new bearings that come in the WSM rebuild kit. Ive already installed all the new bearing that came with the kit. What's your objection to using new WSM bearings?

In the end I didn't use any grease for the bearings, just 2 stroke oil. Seems you only need the grease to hold them together during assembly if using the old style ones where you need to line up the needle bearings. These new ones slot right it. Also the kit came with new rod bolts which I've installed.
 

racerone

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I only install the bearing kits with full complement of needles on V-4 and 3 cylinder motors.----Much better in my opinion.----0395627
 

ct1762@gmail.com

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Those are the new bearings that come in the WSM rebuild kit. Ive already installed all the new bearing that came with the kit. What's your objection to using new WSM bearings?

In the end I didn't use any grease for the bearings, just 2 stroke oil. Seems you only need the grease to hold them together during assembly if using the old style ones where you need to line up the needle bearings. These new ones slot right it. Also the kit came with new rod bolts which I've installed.
Just mentioning that bearings in these are extremely robust. Unless you see chatter marks on the crank (remember bearings are HARDER than the crank pins) or pitting they are fine. Cost is a big issue with these older ones.
 

Faztbullet

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The WSM bearing will be fine as all the newer engines use the captured style. I have installed several hundred (no joke) of these in rebuilds over the years and never had a issue. BRP, Johnson,Evinrude,and just about every jetski uses these style bearings. Yamaha has used them in all their 2stroke motors.
 

Beakster

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Refitting the bypass covers now... Should I use sealant on the gasket or fit dry?

Refitting the bypass covers now... Should I use sealant on the gasket or fit dry?

Also where can I get these plastic check values for a good price. Some of mine seem snapped.
Used the aviation sealant on the bypass covers. Trying to decide if I should use on the intake manifold gasket. The manual says all gaskets should have sealing compound.
 

Beakster

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Used the aviation sealant on the bypass covers. Trying to decide if I should use on the intake manifold gasket. The manual says all gaskets should have sealing compound.
Ended up using the aviation sealant on the inlet manifold. It's a large area to seal and don't want it leaking. Made sure none of the small passaged got blocked.

So powerhead I back together but this work is now stalled because of my bent shift rod. Researching now it straighten it. I tried drilling a hole in wood, heating the rod and passing it through but not luck. I think I might have to try fabricating a new one from a piece of 5/16 rod by cutting a thread on one end and welding a fabricated piece to the other end.
 

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Beakster

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Can someone please explain a little about how the lower unit works. Now that I have it off, turning the shift rod clockwise does nothing, it won't move. Turning it anticlockwise unscrews it. Turning the drive shaft doesnt turn the propellor and turning the propellor doesn't turn the drive shaft.

What do I need to do to make the shift rod functional so that the propellor and drive shaft are engaged?

Thanks
 

racerone

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???----The shift rod moves UP and DOWN to shift this lower unit !!-----Sounds like it is in neutral now.-----And the shift rod needs to be set at a specific dimension.-----And don't worry about a little bit of a bend on it.-----And-----evinrudeparts.ca-----can help you with parts.
 

Beakster

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???----The shift rod moves UP and DOWN to shift this lower unit !!-----Sounds like it is in neutral now.-----And the shift rod needs to be set at a specific dimension.-----And don't worry about a little bit of a bend on it.-----And-----evinrudeparts.ca-----can help you with parts.
Well, I feel rather stupid now :ROFLMAO:... I thought it rotated. I've been spinning this thing in a drill trying to get it true and I've just made it worse. Knowing it only needs to move up and down makes this much easier.

Thanks
 

racerone

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And make 100% sure you understand how important it is to set the shift rod height.----Failure to do so can add to your headaches.----And on a 1980 model V-4 gearcase ( if seals are original ) I would insist on a seal kit for the lower unit.----Repair cost there due to water in the oil can add up to spending lots of beer tokens to repair !!!
 

Beakster

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And make 100% sure you understand how important it is to set the shift rod height.----Failure to do so can add to your headaches.----And on a 1980 model V-4 gearcase ( if seals are original ) I would insist on a seal kit for the lower unit.----Repair cost there due to water in the oil can add up to spending lots of beer tokens to repair !!!
Good advice but I've already bitten of more than I can chew... will get the motor back together and ensure its running, fresh gear oil. Then i'll keep an eye on the gear oil colour and hopefully wait until next year to do the seats on the LU as I believe I need special tools for it.
 
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