Looking to replace the points with an electric ignition

[glennj3]

Good afternoon,
I'm thinking I should just replace my points ignition with an electric one and keep the distributor. Looking for advice on which one to buy, cheap is best for me.
It's a 170 Mercruiser with A175-65 printed on the breather if that helps.
Thanks

 

[matt167]

Pertronix if one is available or go with a Delco voyager system

 

[itsathepete]

Why do you want to replace the points? Are they not working correctly. Actually quite easy and cheap to replace them which should be done every couple of years if not every year and they make for a quite reliable and user serviceable system

 

[glennj3]

Just thought I’d rule out having to deal with them. Plugs don’t fire. Going to pickup a set of points now and see if that helps. Tha points lock down screw or the plate stripped out so I can’t tighten them down. Frustrating!

 

[glennj3]

Update, I did as suggested and replaced the points. She cranked up 1st turn with no hesitation!
Thanks to the Forum help!
By the way. The 2 st lady that I asked for points just looked me funny like

 

[glennj3]

First run of the year!

 

[Scott Danforth]

With points, 95% of the time, a quick file, set dwell and then timing is all that is needed. Especially in spring after the points sit for 6 months and they oxide over.

Most points will last 15-20 years in a boat or longer

 

[flashback]

My old CC had points, I like the ability to carry extra and change on the water. Very simple and work fine...

 

[Lou C]

That’s great now get rid of that in line fuel filter that does not belong in the bilge of a gas inboard.
PS I drove cars that had points from 1972 till about 1980 and only had one breakdown from points (1965 VW Beetle) that was fixed at the side of the road with a screwdriver & feeler gauge….
Meanwhile we had a 75 Olds 350 V8 and had to replace the HEI module twice….

 

[glennj3]

With points, 95% of the time, a quick file, set dwell and then timing is all that is needed. Especially in spring after the points sit for 6 months and they oxide over.

Most points will last 15-20 years in a boat or longer

Wow, I don’t drive mine often and I filed the points.

That’s great now get rid of that in line fuel filter that does not belong in the bilge of a gas inboard.
PS I drove cars that had points from 1972 till about 1980 and only had one breakdown from points (1965 VW Beetle) that was fixed at the side of the road with a screwdriver & feeler gauge….
Meanwhile we had a 75 Olds 350 V8 and had to replace the HEI module twice….

the gas tank is under the mid cabin sleeping area. I don’t think the filter would need to be there either. I realize your referring to the possibility of leakage? There is a gas water separator filter in line also.

 

[glennj3]

With points, 95% of the time, a quick file, set dwell and then timing is all that is needed. Especially in spring after the points sit for 6 months and they oxide over.

Most points will last 15-20 years in a boat or longer

I did file these & they looked good. They don’t ride often but are about 4 years old.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Yeah, that inline plastic fuel filter wouldn't be Coast Guard approved if you get inspected.
Fuel filters, strainers, and their connections must withstand a 2-1/2 minute fire test conducted as described in 183.590.
After the fire test, the filter or strainer is to be subjected to a 3-foot head of fuel to determine its rate of leakage. Acceptable leakage is up to 5 ounces of fuel in 2-1/2 minutes, but must include leakage from an associated fuel pump and fuel line. Internal leakage, destruction of straining or filtering elements, and impairment of function are acceptable.
© 2011 American Boat & Yacht Council, Inc. 51

I did see an all metal inline fuel filter.. Sierra 18-7857, which would be a better candidate. I didn't see anything in the paperwork on the Sierra unit that said it could not be in an enclosed engine compartment.

 

[Lou C]

I thought I saw a black canister fuel filter in the video if that’s the case there would be no reason at all to have any additional filter. Ideally the only rubber fuel hose you have in these systems should be from the tank to the filter assembly, the filter to pump & pump to carb lines should all be metal. There are approved flex lines that can be used if necessary.

 

[havoc_squad]

Yeah, that inline plastic fuel filter wouldn't be Coast Guard approved if you get inspected.
Fuel filters, strainers, and their connections must withstand a 2-1/2 minute fire test conducted as described in 183.590.
After the fire test, the filter or strainer is to be subjected to a 3-foot head of fuel to determine its rate of leakage. Acceptable leakage is up to 5 ounces of fuel in 2-1/2 minutes, but must include leakage from an associated fuel pump and fuel line. Internal leakage, destruction of straining or filtering elements, and impairment of function are acceptable.
© 2011 American Boat & Yacht Council, Inc. 51

I did see an all metal inline fuel filter.. Sierra 18-7857, which would be a better candidate. I didn't see anything in the paperwork on the Sierra unit that said it could not be in an enclosed engine compartment.

To the OP, the main point of the urgency to fix this quickly to replace with a US coast guard approved inboard engine fuel filter is the following:

1. Fire hazard/life safety matter
2. Insurance liability hazard that would give them an excuse to deny ANY insurance claim if found installed when the incident occurred.
3. Boat service shops and mobile service companies will refuse to work on the boat unless you pay them to fix that first if that non-approved filter is found when they begin service work.