Leaking still after bellows replacement. Help please

[Jasonac]

Had water coming in and replaced bellows and just took it out for first time after and still getting water in? Any other places water could be getting in? Seals or o rings etc....Posting a few pics and try posting video

 

[Scott Danforth]

rotten transom

since you mention OMC, the newest OMC is 23 years old and those were relabeled volvos, most OMC;s are much much older (coming up on 30 years old)

have you test drilled to see if your transom is wet/rotten?

 

[Jasonac]

rotten transom

since you mention OMC, the newest OMC is 23 years old and those were relabeled volvos, most OMC;s are much much older (coming up on 30 years old)

have you test drilled to see if your transom is wet/rotten?

I have not test drilled yet, I however did not replace the shift cable bellow. Was this supposed to be changed. I was told not necessary! Also do you know where it goes or location? Thanks again

 

[Bondo]

I have not test drilled yet, I however did not replace the shift cable bellow. Was this supposed to be changed. I was told not necessary! Also do you know where it goes or location? Thanks again

Ayuh,..... Ya haven't said which OMC ya got,......

 

[Jasonac]

Ayuh,..... Ya haven't said which OMC ya got,......

It’s the 4.3 omc cobra.

 

[Jasonac]

I was one that was asking about the bellows few weeks back and the starter replacement. I finally got it back to the lake and still leaking. Was wondering about the shift cable bellow. Where it’s located and would it allow water in. I’m assuming it would have some sort of seal as it goes thru transom

 

[Jasonac]

Can the shift bellow leak into bildge and where is location? I have replaced exhaust and drive bellows

 

[Lou C]

On the Cobra the shift cable bellows is at the top of the tube that screws into the bottom of the transom mount and is routed up in the engine compartment. Follow the shift cable back and you’ll see it. In my experience these rarely leak. That tube will actually have water in it but it’s routed up so the end where the shift cable comes out is well above the water line. Just like a Volvo SX (VP copied and adapted the OMC design).
What did your gimble housing flange look like? Corroded? And did you make sure to install the bellows correctly? I had posted some pix of this if you search
This tube can leak where it screws into the transom mount but I haven’t had that problem yet!

 

[Jasonac]

Here is what I got from putting water in bildge. Not enough to barely touch bottom of oil pan

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Rotten transom,.....

 

[Jasonac]

Ayuh,..... Rotten transom,.....

I’m hoping not as boat is in excellent shape. Is there any way it’s a seal between it. ??? I’m guessing I need to remove outdrive again and test with water in bildge again to get better look where it’s coming from. Before removing the engine. ? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you must remove the outdrive before removing the engine

if your boat is over 20 years old, high probability of a rotten transom

 

[Lou C]

Besides the water test, other signs of a rotted transom are gelcoat cracks around the outdrive cut out and flexing if you pull up and down on the outdrive hard (careful don't knock yourself out). A few people have had luck with seeing if they can get at the nuts that hold the inner and outer transom mounts together and tightening them. They can be VERY tough to get at, though. Might need a crow foot wrench or similar.
this is the problem with I/Os and why I will not have another. Lots and lots of places to leak water and none is an easy fix.
outboards only for me from now on.

 

[Jasonac]

you must remove the outdrive before removing the engine

if your boat is over 20 years old, high probability of a rotten transom

I just went out and inspected bolts on inside of transom and they are a little loose. I can turn them a few times with my 5/8 wrench. I’m guessing these don’t just come loose. I was able to get to the top two and bottom two bolts. And does sound a bit hollow tapping on very bottom of transom inside boat. But only about 6 inches up. Is there something to re harden this taking motor out ? The outside of transom is very solid and no soft areas!!!! Thanks for the help and advice in advance

 

[Jasonac]

Besides the water test, other signs of a rotted transom are gelcoat cracks around the outdrive cut out and flexing if you pull up and down on the outdrive hard (careful don't knock yourself out). A few people have had luck with seeing if they can get at the nuts that hold the inner and outer transom mounts together and tightening them. They can be VERY tough to get at, though. Might need a crow foot wrench or similar.
this is the problem with I/Os and why I will not have another. Lots and lots of places to leak water and none is an easy fix.
outboards only for me from now on.

I just went out and inspected bolts on inside of transom and they are a little loose. I can turn them a few times with my 5/8 wrench. I’m guessing these don’t just come loose. I was able to get to the top two and bottom two bolts. And does sound a bit hollow tapping on very bottom of transom inside boat. But only about 6 inches up. Is there something to re harden this taking motor out ? The outside of transom is very solid and no soft areas!!!! Thanks for the help and advice in advance

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Boats rot from the bottom, Up,.....

No easy button to fix it,...... it needs serious help,......

 

[Scott Danforth]

the only easy button is a staples sales gimmick

drive comes off, motor comes out, transom shield comes off, you build a cradle, you remove the interior, you remove the cap, you then remove the floor, stringers and tansom.

you then go here. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/

read threads 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety. look at every picture. watch every video.

 

[Keyboardman]

You can try tightening the transom plate bolts if you can get to them but, even if the leak slows down or stops, your transom is most likely rotting and will continue to do so. Replacing a transom and most likely stringers too is a huge, pain in the ass job. I had the same situation one time. I lived with the leak and ran it for one season and then sold the boat to someone who fully understood that the transom was bad. Unless you just love that boat, I'd be looking at replacing it. Especially that it's an OMC. Nothing really wrong with OMC but a lot of parts are listed as NLA and, nobody will work on them. I'll never own a Sterndrive boat again. I thought that they would be the best of both worlds combined (inboard and outboard) but it turns out that they are the Worst thing out there in my opinion. Never again for me.

 

[Lou C]

Yep agreed, while many do like sterndrives if you see how complex the once simple engines have become; with all the same designed in draw backs they always had, (ie a pain to winterize, poor access for repairs, bellows leaks cause expensive damage, fuel vapor concerns in the bilge & explosion risk, if a cooling hose fails your bilge gets flooded with sea water, etc) there is simply no good reason to by one any more. And increases in parts cost (example: cat converter exhaust; EFI parts cost) means that outboards really make much more sense now. At one time outboard parts prices were very high by comparison but if you look up parts prices in a Merc or Volvo catalog this is no longer true. Sterndrives made sense when the engines were simple and the parts were cheap. No longer true. I'm willing to pay the price premium for the outboard and go boating! If I long for the elegant simplicity of a Chevy small block I'll buy or build a hot rod.
here in the salt pond mechanics refer to I/O boats as "our bread and butter" and "double trouble" lol

 

[Jasonac]

Thanks y’all for the help and advice!!! Probably going to do same. Try and get through season. I have slowed leak down a lot. By tightening the bolts. May try little more. My question is. With this leaking is water getting into the drive and bellows? As it seems to only be coming from bottom on inside of the mounting bracket! Definitely don’t want to destroy the outdrive and motor. They are both in extremely good shape