Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

[357]

Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

First, I love this site. There is an endless wealth of knowledge. I'm absorbing as much of it up as I can. I'm new to boating, in fact I've never driven a boat. I just inherited one. She's no beauty queen but should work out nicely if I can get her repaired. The boat has been in my family for many years. It has been stored indoors for the past 7-10 years. Before that I believe it was tied up to my uncle's dock for full summers for any number of years.

I posted a question thread to try and find out about the manufacturer but didn't get much info. I did some extensive searching only to find no trace of Admiral and that the Fish-N-Ski Marine Products Inc of Tarpon Springs Florida was only in business for about 8 years, 66-74. My boat has no HIN, just a model/serial number tag on the inside, portside of what's left of the transom. I guess that means it was made pre-72. I've found a few things needing repair.

1. Soft floor
2. Rotten transom
3. Possible broken steering cable
4. Rescusitating the 70hp 1975 Johnson outboard
5. Crack in the splashwell
6. Scrapes in the keel
7. Paint/gelcoat

The good news is that another person's thread with a Fish-N-Ski 15' bowrider reported fiberglass only stringers. Mine appear to be but I haven't yet confirmed that. Hopefully that will save me some work. Also, the motor looks good and ran fine before storage as far as I know. So far I've removed the seats, the main floor covering, and began pulling up the old wet deck. I've included some pics.

I have a ton of questions. I'll post a few more pics and start throwing out some of my headscratchers.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

A few more pics. Funny one is the walnut shells I found UNDER the deck. I'm guessing some mice made it in. There are two holes in the fiberglass right at the tip of the bow so you can access the nuts holding on the front ring. I'm guessing that's how the mice brought the walnuts in. I'll grab a pic of those holes for future advice on what to do with it. Here's a few more pics.

You can see the keel and how it was somewhat repaired. There was a container of what's called "poly" found in the boat. I've never done fiberglass in any way shape or form. I know I'm going to have to learn it to complete this project. You can also see one of the steering cabled kind of loose. The other end of that is laying about halfway between the front and rear of the boat. I included the pic of the crack in the splashwell and the somewhat torn canvas cover as well. I'll try and summarize my plan of attack and ask a few questions in my next post.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Welcome to iBoats 357,

My AeroCraft had walnut shells under the floor too (lots of them). Since there was some above the floor as well I suspect that it sat under a walnut tree and either through being moved around or water build up they rolled/floated into the bilge and then up under the floor.

Those stringers are wood wrapped in FG. So your looking at a full gut and rebuild which is why all of us FG guys are here, so read, read, and read. None of its all that hard once you get your feet wet.
I'd also figure in your plans to update the steering.
Have you ran the motor? I know the boats been in the family but if it hasn't been ran thats something to think about also.

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Welcome to iBoats 357,

My AeroCraft had walnut shells under the floor too (lots of them). Since there was some above the floor as well I suspect that it sat under a walnut tree and either through being moved around or water build up they rolled/floated into the bilge and then up under the floor.

Those stringers are wood wrapped in FG. So your looking at a full gut and rebuild which is why all of us FG guys are here, so read, read, and read. None of its all that hard once you get your feet wet.
I'd also figure in your plans to update the steering.
Have you ran the motor? I know the boats been in the family but if it hasn't been ran thats something to think about also.

TruckDrivingFool,

Thanks for the warm welcome. As far as I can tell the stringer are hollow. I'll confirm one way or another this weekend. I only found one other thread where someone redecked a 15' "Fish-N-Ski" brand bowrider and his had hollow glass stringers. On 6/18/2008 user mcsbroomsear posted this thread: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=257119. On 7/11/2008 he posted this thread: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=262688 asking how to secure the deck to his hollow glass stringers. I haven't drilled yet but when I tap on them they sound hollow. When moving around in the boat they seem solid other than one 6-8" spot on the central stringer. The motor question I'll leave for my next post.

Mike

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

I'll preface this giant list by apologizing. I'm a geek. I work on computers for a living and I sometimes over analyze. I tend to research the heck out of things before I plunk down any significant amount of money. So far I'm only $300 into this boat. Budget is tight but I don't want to cut corners either. I have about $500 on hand to get me started and I can add to that as time goes by. I don't expect to have this done by June like my BIL, who has volunteered to help my out. If I splash this boat this summer at all I'll be a happy man.

1. Glassing. Is there some basic how to glass thread? Basic materials, tools, terminology type information in one thread I can read up on? Where can I get materials, respirator, tyvek suit, etc? Plus I saw this thread: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=304557&page=2 where special_kaye says

System Three Epoxy Resin and slow hardener. I love System Three. Notice no respirator? Don't need one with System Three.

Is this too good to be true? At my size, 6'6" 300lbs, I have a feeling finding a tyvek suit that fits could be challenging and expensive. Even if I get away without it when applying glass/resin, won't I still need it anyway when I'm sanding?

2. Trailer/support. There are 4 rollers on my trailer. Only 2 are making contact with the keel. I'm going to see if I can adjust them so they all bear some weight. The bunks seem like they are in the right place to provide support given the rollers are doing their part. I also need to figure out why the running lights only work on one side. Brake and turn lights work, but not the running lights on the right side. I'm sure the lights will be one of my last priorities.

3. Cap/Splashwell. I need to either remove the cap or cut out the splashwell to replace the transom. There is a good 18-24" overhang making it very difficult to even peel back the floor covering stuff that is on the inside. When I did pull it back the inside skin of the transom started coming with it. I'm leaning toward cutting. I'm not confident I can remove the cap without breaking it nor that I can properly prevent the hull from changing shape while the cap is off. I'm worried my weight on the inside during repairs could cause permanent damage to the hull. I also do not want to build a custom wooden support for the boat to rest on during this process. Should I cut from the inside out, making the smallest overall cut into the sides of the cap, or should I cut from front to back to leave the sides more intact? As in attached pic, Red line, Yellow, Green, or something else? Should I cut some 2x8s and lay them across the stringers to kneel on as I work just to make sure I don't damage the hull?

4. Transom. Once I get the the transom out is it feasable to glass a new inner skin before replacing the transom? I ask because I'd like to use seacast, nida-bond, or arjay 6011 for the transom but I'd like it to bond to both the outer and inner skin glass if possible. I know seacast makes 1.5" spacer blocks and strips to use to prevent the transom pour being to narrow/weak. If I could cut some thin pre-made glass board to fit, glass it in, and used the spacers to gap it properly, then I can pour in the transom as desired. That said, does anyone know of a distributor of nida-bond or arjay in Michigan? I found one listed for seacast and nida-core but the nida-core distributor doesn't look like they do much retail sales, just service work. I sent them an e-mail, along with an arjay distributor located in TN for quotes. I figured shipping from TN would be cheaper than shipping from the distributor in Florida arjay recommended originally. The seacast distributor is about an hour drive from me. They have a transom kit including: 5 Gallons of Seacast, Two 2.75 oz Tubes and One 1 oz Tube of BPO Catalyst, and 7lbs of reground fiberglass for $212. I took measurements and it looks like I'll need 7 gallons. It looks like it's available in 1 gallon buckets also. Might save a few bucks buying 5+1+1 or just buy two 5 gal and use the extra on the stringers if necessary.

5. Stringers. I'll verify but I'm pretty sure mine are hollow glass. Should I drill some holes and fill with seacast/Nida/arjay? I considered it to give better strength and to give the deck something to screw into. Perhaps the added weight won't be worth it. Do I need to tie them into the transom some how? Should I drill drain holes, tube them, seal, etc, to allow water to make it to the bilge easier?

6. Deck. My plan here was to use marine grade plywood. I know I can get away with exterior grade but most sources like this one: http://www.plywood.cc/2008/08/09/marine-plywood-a-comparison-with-general-exterior-plywood/ say the marine grade glue is superior, has no voids in the laminations, uses better wood species, etc. I found a price nearby of $70/sheet. I'll only need two sheets. No matter which way I go I have concerns with how to attach the deck to my hollow glass stringers. If I fill them the concern lessens. I would also like to change the seet configuration as well. I'm leaning toward two pedestal chairs behind the windshield and a custom built bench in the rear rather than the pair of back-to-backs I removed. I know I can build a decent bench and get closed cell foam inexpensively. My concerns are finding inexpensive chairs/seats with decent height and not compromising my deck when attaching them. I thought if I had the chairs prior to deck install I could put stainless bolts up from underneath with a lock nut on the topside; glass over the bottom side and bolt head, before installing the deck. Obviously I'll glass over the top as well. I thought that might prevent seat mounts from compromising my deck. The other deck thoughts are that I don't want carpet. Seems the boat came with some kind of thin linoleum type plastic/rubber floor cover that was textured on top. I'm thinking once glassed in I'd like to just paint/coat it with something durable, textured, and waterproof.

7. Keel. I'm afraid some of the keel damage is underneath the fiberglass floored bow. If I have to remove the bow seats/floor section, I'll definitely have to pop the cap. Would my assumptions be correct that I need to glass inside repairs first, then outside, plus paint/gelcoat? Any how-to do threads for inside/outside keel repairs?

8. Paint/gelcoat. I'm thinking I'd like to repair the finish on the boat as well. If I'm going to cut the splashwell out and repair the keel, I'm going to want to make it look decent once those are patched up. I should be able to get my step-dad's air compressor. He inherited my grandfather's which has a smaller tank so he said I could have his larger one. I mention this since I've read gelcoats are best sprayed on. Is the same true for boat paint? What are the options, and pros/cons of each?

9. Windshield. It seems to be solidly mounted with no cracks in the glass. However the middle section doesn't close quite right. Also, the aluminum looks pretty dull/old, as do the bow rails. I'd like to make them look nice without having to replace them. I'm sure I can polish the glass itself to make it look better. Any suggestions for products/methods here are welcome. I figure I'll have to remove the windshield in order to flip the boat for keel repairs/paint or gelcoat.

10. Motor. Perhaps this is the most important item since it may be worth more than the boat at the moment. As far as I know it ran fine when put into storage. It had a mouse nest under the cover but I was unable to see any chewed wires or hoses. Everything looked great other than the nest I removed. I have not run it yet. I don't have the tool that allows the motor to run using my hose water to cool it. I won't put the boat in the water like it is nor would I trust the transom to hold it properly without causing more damage. I need to do a "reawakening" on it. I saw a basic thread describing the steps to bring it back to life. It seemed rather extensive but I know it'll be necessary at some point. Perhaps I'm being naive but I was planning on doing the motor after the boat was done. Either way I need to take it off the boat and I don't have any way to lift it or any stand to hang it on. What does a 1975 70hp Johnson weigh? If it's not too high could my BIL and I lift it off by hand? Is there some basic design for a stand I could build out of lumber that won't cost me a fortune? My BIL has volunteered to help me with this boat project. Maybe I'll have him work on the motor when he's here and I'll focus on the boat. He's decent with engines, not much better or worse than I am. Plus that way he won't necessarily need a tyvek suit, respirator, etc.


Again, sorry for the huge post, information dump, and littany of questions. These are the thoughts racing through my head ever since getting the boat home. If anyone replies don't feel it necessary to comment on all items. Any an all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Mike

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Sorry looked like wood showing through in the one pic maybe its just demo debris.

I'm a rookie myself so the short and quick answers I can give

1.a. Glassing bible is Oops' thread
b. Epoxy costs way more than poly
c. The "suit" is for the grinding phase
2. Wouldn't hurt to adjust them up if your doing all this on the trailer. However off the trailer and in a crib will put it lower ie: easier to climb in n out. You may just have to readjust once it's all said and done as it may effect loading/unloading the boat.
3-4.See my recommendation for off the trailer. I'd say decap it's not that hard and gets obstacles out of the way.
If your serious about Seacast (cost once again) cut it at the red line. Less work to reattach and gets the whole thing out of the way. This would probably be the better way I suppose as then you can go the drill and chainsaw removal route that many have done to leave the skins for Seacast.
5.????
6.????
7. Depends I'll let the others with more know answer
8. If you decide on paint Look at WoodonGlass' Flamingo thread
9. You can polish the aluminium and get good results
10.I'd recommend that you achieve this first and pickle it for storage. Since it sounds as if you have no deliberation about saving this one, then atleast if there is something catastrofic (sp?) you will have plenty of time to find a replacment.

To that end, I'd focus my worry/fret/analysis on the motor then figuring out which material route your going. Not mention energy on reading some of the shorter resto threads.

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Found my stringers are in fact wood. Also, there doesn't seem to be any foam whatsoever. Maybe someone has already redone my boat. I'll post some pics later.

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Here's my stringers.


Anyone seen stringers that werent' straight and bent in toward the keel like that? I fully understand I'm in for the whole kit & caboodle now. I'm going to have to decap her just to get the bow seat/deck section out so I can replace the rotten stringers. This should also give me good access to any keel damage that needs repairs on the inside. Fortunately I have a high ceiling in my garage. I'm thinking of hoisting the cap up and out of the way for the duration of the hull repairs. Anyway, per the advice here on iboats I'm moving on to the motor first.

Model/SN


Motor stand my BIL and I built (per the iboats thread including design documents):


And the controls I need to figure out how to disconnect.

I've ordered an original service manual. I'm sure it'll show how. However, if anyone can advise me on this it might save me some time while I wait for the manual to ship. I also need a key for the controls. I read somewhere there's a number on the side of the lock cylinder that will let me order a new one. Is this something a local boat shop could do or do I need to order it online?

Also, I am looking for ideas on a way to support the hull off the trailer during repair. I've seen many a thread, but none with detailed design on how to make the support structure. I liked the idea I saw on one where someone modified cheap furnitire dollies to hold the hull. I can get them at Home Depot for $10 each. I'm leaning toward this but not locked in just yet.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

I built this for $60 bucks using pneumatic 8" casters from Harbor Freight and 2x6's

When I was done with the bottom of the hull, I converted it to this.

I did not remove my top cap or stringers. Since you will be doing this you should probably make your supports run the full length under the hull instead of pivots like mine. You could make them pivot like this... I got free carpet pieces from a Carpet Store to pad the support rails. Make sure and take a lot of measurements inside the hull so you will know the correct dimentsions especially at the top. When you replace the stringers and the deck you need to make absolutely certain it is exactly the same as it was before in order for the top cap to fit back on correctly.

Other than that it should work nicely.

 

[River_Lizard]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

See photo......to remove the shifter and throttle cables.

 

[357]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Thanks guys!!! Great help. I'll see what I can get done and update you as soon as i can.

 

[River_Lizard]

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

Re: Late 60s or Early 70s 15' bowrider - Admiral branded manufactured by "Fish-N-Ski"

357,
To make it easy when re-installing the cables, it's best to mark them such as top and bottom for quick reference. If you're throttle and shifter operate correctly make sure you don't turn those wheels by the bracket you have to take off, those are adjustment wheels to move the cables in and out to adjust length for linkage.