You do realise that the chances of such an experimental application ...
because I am stuffing 900# in a 1# box and the alternator and electric waterpump want to share the same space.
OK, technically, I am stuffing the driveline of a typical 106" wheelbase vehicle that is usually in a 170" long 3800# car, into a vehicle that currently has a 78" wheelbase that will be stretched to 88-90" and is only 131.5" long while keeping the weight under 2200#
and yes, the transmission would need to be removed to access.
no different than starters on many of todays cars.
however its usually not the stator coils that go bad, its the rectifier assembly (needs a really big heatsink)
This triple disc clutch intrigues me ......our thoughts on this theory
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the force required to release the clutch on a button clutch is higher than a typical street clutch.
so unless you have Popeye forearms. think outside the box (here is what I came up with about 15 years ago when I injured my left knee)
use a push button on the shifter with a hydraulic throw-out bearing, a 3-way 2-position valve and a flow control on the exit side. easy peasy. instant clutch in, controlled release (flow control).
tie into the power steering pump for pressure and return.
can do a 1-button or two button control.
with two buttons, you need a second valve, however you can have two rates of clutch release.
a HTOB needs between 900 and 1300 psi to operate
power steering pumps in fords are 900 psi, and in GM trucks (and boats) are ~ 1300 psi
) but while it appeals to me I cant help but wondering how long it will take you to get sick of telling anyone who looks under the bonnet (hood ) of your investment of blood sweat and tears and asks " where's the mother duckin alternator Scott ?" that its under the flywheel , and then the ensuing barrage of inquisition as to why its under the flywheel ........ when a gilmer belt kit looks pretty cool too.
