Johnson 150 Rebuild/Remanufacture Guidance

[Terrapin]

No......remove seal and o-ring. Place new bearing in freezer overnite. Place head on top of small coffee can. Pre-heat oven to 450° and insert. You will hear it fall out into can. Remove can and flip head over. Grab new bearing from freezer and drop in head. let cool and install new seal.

Thanks for the quick response Faztbullet. I will return the new one with the cage corrosion and buy the bearing from outboardparts.com (the only source I identified for the bearing). I'll also replace the seal. Do I use gasket sealer on the new seal and install similar to the method used on the lower crankcase seal?

 

[Faztbullet]

Depends on which seal you get...if its bare metal yes sealer, if colored coating no. WSM has bearing also....010-293

 

[Terrapin]

Depends on which seal you get...if its bare metal yes sealer, if colored coating no. WSM has bearing also....010-293

I just found the seal in my WSM gasket kit. It is metal, but has a green finish on the outside diameter. So are you saying no gasket sealant?
I wish I would have found the WSM bearing number first. I already ordered from outboardmotorparts. Hopefully they are the same quality.

 

[racerone]

Fact ----it is not possible for enough air to leak by the seal outside housing to hurt operation of this motor !----No sealer needed.

 

[Faztbullet]

The green finish is a anti-rust sealer coating, when installing ,it will seal the OD of seal to ID of bearing housing but it has to be installed with a straight push, no cocking or walking in.

 

[Terrapin]

I am in need of a temperature switch for one of my cylinder heads. I broke the wire off the original one. The original OMC p/n was 378176. I understand that p/n was replaced by p/n 0386686. Is there a source for these or a suitable replacement? Thanks for all of the guidance!

 

[racerone]

Your location.-----E-bay ----amazon----evinrudeparts.ca-----Just a few possibilities.

 

[racerone]

Sometimes a different connecter / wire changes the part #.----A good dealer would know how to help you here.

 

[James R]

I have been rebuilding a variety of motors, including the J/E 6s for the past 15 years, not as a job as I have been retired for that long. The hands are starting to hurt now but I still manage. Just finishing a 1986 V4 john right now. My shop is basic but well equipped. No, I'm not suggesting that I do your motor but I can help you do yours. You will need a hoist and an engine mount. I am in NC and have my boring done by Pro Outboard in Lake Wylie Sc. First class shop which can supply the WSM pistons, gasket sets and carb rebuild kits, plus anything else you might need by way of parts. If you are going to the trouble of tearing down the motor you may just have all the bores done. Depends on your budget. The bores may not show a lot of wear or scoring but they will probably be out of round. A light hone may do the trick but don't try to do it yourself.You will make a mess of it. This is a two stroke with cut outs in the cylinder walls. Nuff said.
You probably wont need a bore gauge or micrometer from what you have said. Ok, if you are going to do it the guys on this forum will be right there with you.

 

[Terrapin]

Sometimes a different connecter / wire changes the part #.----A good dealer would know how to help you here.

Yes, I was trying to understand whether there were other replacement/compatible part numbers. I can't seem to find the two above p/n's as new items. evinrudeparts.ca does say "Price: Call Us". I will try that.

 

[Terrapin]

I have been rebuilding a variety of motors, including the J/E 6s for the past 15 years, not as a job as I have been retired for that long. The hands are starting to hurt now but I still manage. Just finishing a 1986 V4 john right now. My shop is basic but well equipped. No, I'm not suggesting that I do your motor but I can help you do yours. You will need a hoist and an engine mount. I am in NC and have my boring done by Pro Outboard in Lake Wylie Sc. First class shop which can supply the WSM pistons, gasket sets and carb rebuild kits, plus anything else you might need by way of parts. If you are going to the trouble of tearing down the motor you may just have all the bores done. Depends on your budget. The bores may not show a lot of wear or scoring but they will probably be out of round. A light hone may do the trick but don't try to do it yourself.You will make a mess of it. This is a two stroke with cut outs in the cylinder walls. Nuff said.
You probably wont need a bore gauge or micrometer from what you have said. Ok, if you are going to do it the guys on this forum will be right there with you.

James R, Thanks for reaching out. I already had my cylinders bored .020" oversized and am starting to put the engine back together. However, I am trying to buy a few parts I need.
I may give Pro Outboard a call to see if they have a temperature switch for the cylinder head. Thanks

 

[Faztbullet]

Call Jay as he most likely got a good used one laying about...

 

[James R]

The most luck I have had with this problem is with the use of oxy/accet. The aluminum dissipates heat so quickly that map gas even with oxy is not hot enough. A lot of patience with the heat is necessary and don't forget aluminum will melt if it gets too hot. Application of a light impact gun once hot usually breaks the bolt free. Once it frees keep it turning or it may lock up. During rebuild I always use OMC sealant or Perfect Seal on the bolts, especially the shanks. This prevents all this trouble down the road. Wouldn't it be nice if everybody did it. If the bolts break off dont worry there is a good way to get them out, you will need a MIG welder for that.

 

[James R]

Sorry terrapin. Looks like I have got out of step. Incidentally I have found penetrating oil a total wast of time. I use sealant on all the bolts during reassembly with exception of those requiring thread locker. Pleased to hear that you are having a go.

 

[Terrapin]

Yes, I was trying to understand whether there were other replacement/compatible part numbers. I can't seem to find the two above p/n's as new items. evinrudeparts.ca does say "Price: Call Us". I will try that.

I was not aware of this evinrudeparts.ca site, but was pleasantly surprised that although they did not have a new temp switch they provided me a few dealer names and phone numbers that showed availability. Albeit, a used option. I picked up a used bench tested temp sensor.
The manual advises to use OMC gasket sealant to glue the sensor in the cylinder head pocket. Is there a better 2021 solution or should I use my Loctite Gasket Sealant?

 

[Faztbullet]

I wouldnt glue it. When I replace one I just put a dab of white thermal transfer grease on disk part and in hole and sock er in

 

[Terrapin]

I wouldnt glue it. When I replace one I just put a dab of white thermal transfer grease on disk part and in hole and sock er in

The old one had a broken wire and it was difficult to remove. I ended up braking the center stem off of the sensor disk and found an EZ Out that was a force fit in the shallow hole. It then twisted out with a T Handle. I believe corrosion held it in place. It isn't a force fit when you press it in, is it?

 

[Terrapin]

The old one had a broken wire and it was difficult to remove. I ended up braking the center stem off of the sensor disk and found an EZ Out that was a force fit in the shallow hole. It then twisted out with a T Handle. I believe corrosion held it in place. It isn't a force fit when you press it in, is it?

OK, I received my used temperature sensor and understand what you mean by just stuffing it in. It has a rubber plug/seal that holds the sensor against the bottom of the counterbore once you put the cylinder head cover in place. Thanks!

 

[Terrapin]

No......remove seal and o-ring. Place new bearing in freezer overnite. Place head on top of small coffee can. Pre-heat oven to 450° and insert. You will hear it fall out into can. Remove can and flip head over. Grab new bearing from freezer and drop in head. let cool and install new seal.

Alan, your process worked amazingly well! After approximately 10 minutes in a preheated oven the bearing dropped out. The frozen new bearing dropped right into the bottom of the head.
It was somewhat painful to remove the Torrington AJ47495 OEM bearing and replace it with this Pro Marine USA part but I'll get over it. I probably would have purchased the WSM bearing, but possibly it is from the same manufacturer of the Pro Marine USA bearing I have. Thanks again!

 

[Terrapin]

I'm looking for some guidance on the use of a sealant on bolt threads and shanks for my rebuild. The last time I had my cylinder heads off, I believe my investigation led me to no sealant use on the cylinder head bolts to ensure accurate torque values. Do I use the Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealant on all other exhaust cover, cylinder head cover bolts, and bypass cover bolts for example? The OEM service manual states when to use Gel Seal on bolts, but in many cases it doesn't specify on other fasteners.