Johnson 150 Rebuild/Remanufacture Guidance

[Terrapin]

The head is the recessed lip in block and the bushing is the split plastic ring on bottom of timer base.. you had it figured out

But it seems they refer to what you call the split plastic ring on the bottom of the timer base as the "retainer ring".
The step after the Moly Lube step says:
"Lubricate the timer base retainer ring (C) with Evinrude or Johnson Outboard Lubricant."
then
"Lightly compress the retainer ring (C) and install the timer base. Route and connect the timer base leads."

Possibly, they want Moly Lube on the the machined outside diameter of the crankcase head given the small gap between it and the inside diameter of the timer base once in position? This may be to prevent corrosion and binding across the gap? I'm not sure...

 

[Faztbullet]

The timer base has a groove in it like the crankcase sealing rings. You lube the groove in timer base, install plastic ring on timer, snap into recess in head,install clamps and make sure its free to rotate

 

[Terrapin]

OK, I think I've got it. The timer base groove gets cleaned and new outboard lubricant applied. The clean retainer ring is snapped in the groove. The outboard lubricant ensures free rotation of timer base on retainer ring.

The outside diameter of the bushing and the recessed lip in the crankcase head gets the light coating of Moly Lube. This ends up being a fixed interface once the 4 clamps hold the bushing in place. I don't quite get the purpose of the Moly Lube. Thanks for your great help Faztbullet. It's greatly appreciated!

 

[racerone]

The timer base rotates therefor it needs lube.----Need lube on its bore and on the ring that keeps it in place.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

i just put moly lube on the retaining ring

 

[havoc_squad]

Sounds like the OP is getting close to the time to putting a new flywheel key on and torqueing the flywheel.

You'll probably have to do your best on torquing the flywheel as high as you can with it off the midsection, then use the flywheel service tool to lift the assembly on the midsection.

Maybe the others can give you a good baseline of the minimum torque required to lift the powerhead up for install.

Once the powerhead is fully bolted down, you can apply the full torque more easily.

Other people may have other recommendations (I haven't seen them/remember them and not trying to compete on who's the best), but I have two key tips for you to avoid injuring yourself on attempting to torque that flywheel.

Pro tip #1, on the flywheel turner, you are going to want to put a short thick strong pipe as added leverage over the handle. The pipe should fit tight with the handle and the handle be far into the pipe. If the turner handle moves around too much, put something in there to inhibit movement.

The pipe is to get both get extra leverage on the flywheel turner AND it also frees up both hands when slack is tightened to use the torque wrench with both hands.

The flywheel turner with the extra bar is NOT for torqueing, it is for stability and extra leverage.

When tight, the pipe goes flat against the upper chest and both hands on torque wrench.

Tip #2. Get a 1/2in torque wrench that is clearly longer than most 3/8 inch torque wrenches. Example, I would definitely NOT recommend the harbor freight 1/2 torque wrench for the getting the leverage needed to torque the 140-145 ft/lbs required for the 150hp/175hp flywheel. It simply is too short past about 110 ft/lbs.

What previously took me 2 people about 3 weeks ago now just takes one person using this method.

 

[Terrapin]

Havoc, thanks for your suggested tip. I am getting close to powerhead installation. It's been a long drawn out rebuild, but free time to focus on it is a bit tough right now.

By "flywheel turner" I have a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. Is that what you are referencing? If so, I will have to find a pipe to fit over it. I do have an old Snap on click type 250 ft.lb. torque wrench which should do it if I can hold the flywheel in place. I wonder if a torque stick extension on an impact wrench would be an acceptable option or too risky?

Powerhead Gasket: My service manual says put sealant on the gasket prior to assembly. However, it looks like the same material used for my head gaskets (WSM Gasket Kit). Do I lubricate this gasket regardless of material/composition?

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

i've used a torque stick, but only after verifying its actually doing atleast 145 ft/lbs. the big thing is to lap the flywheel to the taper with some valve grinding compound. do that, and she isn't going anywhere even if it had 350hp lol

 

[havoc_squad]

Havoc, thanks for your suggested tip. I am getting close to powerhead installation. It's been a long drawn out rebuild, but free time to focus on it is a bit tough right now.

By "flywheel turner" I have a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. Is that what you are referencing? If so, I will have to find a pipe to fit over it. I do have an old Snap on click type 250 ft.lb. torque wrench which should do it if I can hold the flywheel in place. I wonder if a torque stick extension on an impact wrench would be an acceptable option or too risky?

Powerhead Gasket: My service manual says put sealant on the gasket prior to assembly. However, it looks like the same material used for my head gaskets (WSM Gasket Kit). Do I lubricate this gasket regardless of material/composition?

No, I am referring to an actual flywheel turner that uses teeth, this thing. It is also called out/referenced in the factory service manual. The only difference is that its not the Snap-on model that factory manual references.

Photo of the results below after a few "motivation" whacks of the bottom of a 3/4 inch LP gas hard steel pipe to push the flywheel turner handle in far enough to ensure proper safe fitting under heavy torque.



This thing made outboard flywheel torqueing almost too easy. The hard part is getting the slack taken up while keeping the tool's notches centered for clean torque.

One could cut/trim the pipe somewhat to take out the extra length but it wasn't a big deal/issue so I left it. It's better to have extra that you can cut off than not enough length to allow full body contact.

Once you get that part set and it resting over your chest, its simply getting enough strength with two hands to reach the torque on the torque wrench.

I don't have excellent upper body strength condition, so it definitely turns the situation from barely/somewhat not possible to reasonably sure with the right tools and technique.

 

[Terrapin]

Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't aware of this tool. In fact, I'm surprised I didn't come across it when I was fighting with flywheel removal. This appears to be the Lisle version I found via a Google search (should have searched before asking for clarification). I will also look at whether I have a lengthy piece of angle stock that I could bolt to the flywheel. I fear breaking a flywheel tooth with the Lisle flywheel turner, if it pops out of the tooth. . .

 

[havoc_squad]

Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't aware of this tool. In fact, I'm surprised I didn't come across it when I was fighting with flywheel removal. This appears to be the Lisle version I found via a Google search (should have searched before asking for clarification). I will also look at whether I have a lengthy piece of angle stock that I could bolt to the flywheel. I fear breaking a flywheel tooth with the Lisle flywheel turner, if it pops out of the tooth. . .

Not gonna happen if the points on the flywheel turner fit in square/perpendicular into the flywheel teeth notches and they are centered for full grip.

If you can't get one of the points on the flywheel turner to fit well in the teeth gap, you might need to heat the arm somewhat and bend the arm slightly to better engage the teeth. I don't think you'll have that issue on that larger 150/175 hp flywheel. On the 90/100/115 hp V4, it might be necessary.

I would recommend you just pick up the 3/4 inner LP black pipe 24 inch pipe, it's about $10 to $12 at a Lowes/Home Depot, etc. and just buy two of the Lisle flywheel turners if you want a short and long version. Less fabrication work involved. Use the time savings on getting the powerhead installed.

OMC outboard technicians have been torqueing the flywheel for years on these motors using the flywheel turner. If it was an issue, there would be warnings/alternatives suggested by people like Fastbullet or racerone to address it.

Worst case, buy the Snap on model of the flywheel turner if you feel the need to get the factory recommended flywheel turner.

FYI, I do not use hand tools taking off the flywheel nut. I use impact gun to get it off with the flywheel turner to hold the flywheel steady. I just take it slow and careful by using the low or medium impact gun torque setting.

Most marine outboard technicians from what I hear of never use hand tools for flywheel removal unless it is a model that is known that must be done only with hand tools.

 

[racerone]

These tools work like a charm.----Have 2 of them and no modifications needed.----Only now do I need to modify them as my arms do not look the same as when I was the high school wrestling champion !

 

[Terrapin]

Oil for Engine Break In: Over the past few years I have been running XD100 (100% synthetic) in my VRO tank. Is it OK to use the XD100 for the engine break in period?

 

[Faztbullet]

Break it in with XD50

 

[Terrapin]

Break it in with XD50

OK, I'll switch out the XD100 and fill my VRO tank with XD50. Is it ok to switch back to XD100 after one VRO tank full (2-3 Gal.) for less smoke and less ash/carbon?

 

[Faztbullet]

Add a lil to gas also. You got a old beat up prop to make a test wheel ?

 

[Terrapin]

Add a lil to gas also. You got a old beat up prop to make a test wheel ?

I was planning on going to 50:1 in the gas tank for the first 25 gallons. Especially since I also rebuilt my VRO. Is this a good ratio and plan?

 

[Terrapin]

Add a lil to gas also. You got a old beat up prop to make a test wheel ?

I have an old prop (14 1/2 x 19 pitch) I can sacrifice. A Google search shows a guy maintaining the blade end shape, but removing 1/3 of the blade length on all three blades. Is this what you suggest? Should I target a specific end diameter?

 

[tphoyt]

I just have to add my 2 cents and give Bill from Master Tex Marine up.
He provides a great service, quality parts and honest pricing.
All the Best on what ever you decide to do.

 

[Faztbullet]

Cut about a inch off blade length , leave squared off