"It Happened!" Transom has to be replaced! (NOW W/PICS)

[Jcris]

Ahh,
Back to work, very cool

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

here's a pic of the oven the roven woven that was installed yesterday over the stringers and up the transom to increase strength in both. Sanded down first coat of leveling putty and identified those areas that still need attention. I still have some small valley's that need filling before using the glazing putty.

 

[Scott Danforth]

based on the pic, there was not enough grinding and prep work for the CSM / roving. you may have delamination issues in the future.

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

based on the pic, there was not enough grinding and prep work for the CSM / roving. you may have delamination issues in the future.

I'm not sure but I don't think my partner ground anything on the inside transom fiberglass. (Think he's getting frustrated with the whole project.)

If it does delaminate lets hope it's in the far future when the boat has lasted out it's usefulness. I'm the Captain and I said "scuttle her! In a hundred years it just won't matter!"

 

[Woodonglass]

Did your guy at least wash it down with acetone before laying the glass??? I'm going to agree with SD...It could fail in the future.

 

[LX Kid]

Did your guy at least wash it down with acetone before laying the glass??? I'm going to agree with SD...It could fail in the future.

I wasn't there yesterday evening when he did the work. I'll have to ask him tomorrow. He's a responsible person and knows what has to be done. (After all it's also his boat and wants it done correct.)

 

[LX Kid]

Today the engine compartment is going to get painted with white Topside. I will put some more putty on the transom to fill in a few, ( a lot), of imperfections. Making a long sanding block, from wood, to make better leveling of the putty when wet sanding. The little 3M sanding block is causing valleys. My partner, Pat, is also making a drilling jig for the gimbal housing stud holes. The thru-transom holes are at about a 15 degrees slant to match the angle of the transom.

We're starting to think it would be a lot cheaper to just buy fish at the fish market for years to come for the same money! LoL

 

[LX Kid]

For those interested, we have spent about $1350.00 so far on the project with about two months labor of half days work. If same work was done professionally, including engine and gimbal work, we think it would have cost us about $6500. Split 3 ways, when job is finished, is going to be about $500 each. "Not bad!"

 

[Jcris]

Not bad at all. When do you think you'll be able to put her on the water?

 

[Scott Danforth]

We're starting to think it would be a lot cheaper to just buy fish at the fish market for years to come! LoL

I came to that conclusion years ago...... so now I burn fuel, stop in at a bunch of water-front establishments and then swing by the seafood market next to one of the restaraunts

 

[LX Kid]

Not bad at all. When do you think you'll be able to put her on the water?

"If, if, if, if twenty different things don't come up "maybe" end of next week. Still have to look into the outdrive and see why there was so much gear lube being deposited into the drive shaft bellows. Gotta be a seal somewhere that's leaking. Might even be the o-ring between the upper and lower leaking. I've already bought a seal kit just in case everything went bad even though it was done about a year or so ago. I even did a pressure test on the outdrive after installing seals.

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

Used less harder, yesterday afternoon, for the putty so I could work it longer in the valleys. Checked on it this morning and it is hardening but is still not fully cured. Used a long scraper blade to level the putty but will wait till it's fully cured before I do anything else to it. I know I don't have to make it perfect but am trying to do the best I can so it doesn't look "too" amateurish. I'd like it to look where someone would just have to be looking for the flaws at least.

I really wish that we had not cut box out at the bottom to be able to remove the Y-tube. Had we known at the time that the Y-tube was the leak, bottom rotted out, we could have cut the Y-tube off. "Oh well!"

 

[Jcris]

What kind of "putty" are you using? By chance is it Marine Tex? If so I've noticed a fairly long cure time dependent on ambient temp and how much hardener is used. Even when it cures the surface still feels like it's not quite hardened . Right or wrong I just sand it down and the surface and have never had any issue with leaks. The repairs I've done below the water line are very small though. Not sure this helps

 

[LX Kid]

What kind of "putty" are you using? By chance is it Marine Tex? If so I've noticed a fairly long cure time dependent on ambient temp and how much hardener is used. Even when it cures the surface still feels like it's not quite hardened . Right or wrong I just sand it down and the surface and have never had any issue with leaks. The repairs I've done below the water line are very small though. Not sure this helps

Bondo. Can says good for auto and water area use. After everything is leveled and sanded I'm going to use a white primer, sand and paint. (Your following this thread pretty close! Thanks)

 

[kcassells]

Just got to say alot of hard work...just wrong materials and prep. Just seems like you haven't researched anything regarding materials, techniques and applications. Boat will float but I don't recommend anyone following the repair techniques. Hey just me. Like I said it will float.
Bondo is not for below water.

 

[LX Kid]

Just got to say alot of hard work...just wrong materials and prep. Just seems like you haven't researched anything regarding materials, techniques and applications. Boat will float but I don't recommend anyone following the repair techniques. Hey just me. Like I said it will float.
Bondo is not for below water.

I would bet that as long as I own the boat it will hold up. "If not" then I'll grind it off and do it again. Should last long enough. The base materials are proper but the Bondo is a stretch. With Bondo, glazing, primer and Topside paint it should work out good enough. If not well it will be lesson learned.

 

[kcassells]

You Go Boyyyyyyy! It will float. Go git some fish!!

 

[LX Kid]

You Go Boyyyyyyy! It will float. Go git some fish!!

Gotta get her back in the water before the harsh winter set in. Don't know how I can stand the 70 degree weather! Burr! LoL

 

[LX Kid]

No Title

The base materials are proper but the Bondo is a stretch. With Bondo, glazing, primer and Topside paint it should work out good enough. If not well it will be lesson learned.

I'm not actually using Topside Paint on the transoms exterior as noted in #196 above. I'm actually using a product from Fiberglass Coatings Inc. as shown below. It's a polyurethane enamel product. It's not intended for below the waterline but this boat is never in the water for more than 6-8 hours at a time.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Just got to say alot of hard work...just wrong materials and prep. Just seems like you haven't researched anything regarding materials, techniques and applications. Boat will float but I don't recommend anyone following the repair techniques. Hey just me. Like I said it will float.
Bondo is not for below water.

I don't want to start an argument but from what I found out Bondo Glass #272 is good for marine use and is waterproof:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=6102