It begins

[dozerII]

Great job on the glue that looked real easy. Almost time for gluvit.

 

[hayko1971]

Great job on the glue that looked real easy. Almost time for gluvit.

Gluvit is on the way... I see most strip paint before sealing with Gluvit. Is there a reason for this? or is it just the order things happen?
I've never used Gluvit or epoxy before and I wonder if I apply it before the strip job if the stripper wont seep into the seams and react with it.
I'm going to wait until the hull is stripped I think before I apply... plus it'll be warmer!

 

[dozerII]

Gluvit is on the way... I see most strip paint before sealing with Gluvit. Is there a reason for this? or is it just the order things happen?
I've never used Gluvit or epoxy before and I wonder if I apply it before the strip job if the stripper wont seep into the seams and react with it.
I'm going to wait until the hull is stripped I think before I apply... plus it'll be warmer!

You are correct you want to strip first, so you can check for loose rivets and cracks and leak test, then gluvit, which likes 20+c temps

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Thats looking clean! Unfortunatley I think I have paint over the glue on the inside of mine. Still trying to figure out how Im going to tackle that.

 

[GoldDuster360]

Looking good. How and what are you going to paint the outside hull with?

 

[hayko1971]

Looking good. How and what are you going to paint the outside hull with?

I think I'm going to polish the hull and try to add the swoosh in some manner with paint or vinyl. The topsides I havent yet decided if I'm going to paint or cover with floor vinyl...I'm leaning towards paint. I guess I need to buy a HVLP gun.

 

[hayko1971]

Played around replacing some broken solid rivets this weekend. I made a rivet set out of an air hammer chisel. I just cut off the chisel part and ground a concave surface to conform to a rivet in the cut off shank. Taped up the mating surface to avoid marring, set my compressor at 30 psi and tried a few practice rivets. Then got the Admiral to hold a chrome hitch for a bucking surface in the boat. All in all I call it a success!



Gun, Rivet set and chrome hitch bucking bar. (yes that's zebra print duct tape)

 

[hayko1971]

I tried my hand a paint stripping today also. I tried the safe strip mixed with flour. It didn't work so well for me. I believe it's still too cold out, but I thought I'd try it.
I'll try again when it warms up a bit.

 

[hayko1971]

... and it's flipped!!





I've got these 2 little divots in the same spot on each side of the hull. They dont leak, should I worry? On the trailer they live above the wheel wells... high enough above that I cant see how they were made... maybe a previous trailer?

 

[hayko1971]

and speaking of trailers, here's mine. It works good, I'll clean it up and replace rollers, or is it feasible to convert to bunks? Most bunk trailers I see look lower, but I'm no trailer expert at all.

 

[dozerII]

Rivet looks good, I would check those two spots on the hull real close, they don't look like dents, more like pretty deep rubs, poke then with a sharp awle. You mat want to make a couple small patches held on with a two rivets and some 3M 5200. Your trailer looks to be a Calkins, they are real heavy duty, but on that one with only 8 rollers your entire boat approximately 1600 pounds is being supported on about 16 sq inches 100 lbs per roller. Does your hull show any signs of deforming or dents were it sits on the rollers? You could convert it to bunks but it would involve some design and a bit of welding.

 

[hayko1971]

Rivet looks good, I would check those two spots on the hull real close, they don't look like dents, more like pretty deep rubs, poke then with a sharp awle. You mat want to make a couple small patches held on with a two rivets and some 3M 5200. Your trailer looks to be a Calkins, they are real heavy duty, but on that one with only 8 rollers your entire boat approximately 1600 pounds is being supported on about 16 sq inches 100 lbs per roller. Does your hull show any signs of deforming or dents were it sits on the rollers? You could convert it to bunks but it would involve some design and a bit of welding.

Yes, it is a Caulkins trailer, there are minor indentations where the rollers contact. That's why I wondered about going to bunks. The gouges aren't dents and are certainly from rubbing, but I have no idea what they could be from. My best guess is a strap that a previous owner used to use... They are solid though, and I'm toying with the idea of filling them in with jb weld then sanding to conform to the edge.

 

[dozerII]

Yes, it is a Caulkins trailer, there are minor indentations where the rollers contact. That's why I wondered about going to bunks. The gouges aren't dents and are certainly from rubbing, but I have no idea what they could be from. My best guess is a strap that a previous owner used to use... They are solid though, and I'm toying with the idea of filling them in with jb weld then sanding to conform to the edge.

The JB would be a good idea, the spots are small enough if you are going to polish they won't been seen by anyone other than you.
Does your boat fit between the fenders on the trailer, or is it slightly wider? Post up a couple more pictures of your trailer from straight on from the back at roller height and from the side, I kinda have an idea on a simple bunk system,I think.

 

[Watermann]

Personally anything damaged below the waterline I would not just patch up with JB for cosmetics sakes, The rubs are substantial and an impact on that sort of repair could be a big problem on the water if it breaks through. I would for sure fill the damage with JB but then patch over the top with .080 sheet AL back buttered in 5200 and riveted in place. It may be tricky to bend the patch but it isn't impossible that's for sure.

I'm thinking you didn't see the damage until you turtled the boat and it's on the bottom so nobody else will ever see it unless of course your run over a swimmer :lol:. It's all about making the boat safe not a parade show piece.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

PO might have went on a road trip and used the boat as a carry all too? Might have weighted down the springs enough for a long road trip to wear spots from the trailer if they are on both sides. If leak test passed Id JB weld and go. but with your riveting now a patch would put the what IF's to rest like Wmann said. Lookin good Hayko.

 

[hayko1971]

The JB would be a good idea, the spots are small enough if you are going to polish they won't been seen by anyone other than you.
Does your boat fit between the fenders on the trailer, or is it slightly wider? Post up a couple more pictures of your trailer from straight on from the back at roller height and from the side, I kinda have an idea on a simple bunk system,I think.

The boat is a little wider than the wheel wells, it rides above them, but not low enough that it rubs on them, that's why I can't figure out the rub spots. I'll snap some more photos tomorrow and post them up

 

[hayko1971]

Personally anything damaged below the waterline I would not just patch up with JB for cosmetics sakes, The rubs are substantial and an impact on that sort of repair could be a big problem on the water if it breaks through. I would for sure fill the damage with JB but then patch over the top with .080 sheet AL back buttered in 5200 and riveted in place. It may be tricky to bend the patch but it isn't impossible that's for sure.

I'm thinking you didn't see the damage until you turtled the boat and it's on the bottom so nobody else will ever see it unless of course your run over a swimmer :lol:. It's all about making the boat safe not a parade show piece.

I've always been aware of those spots, they don't leak so I didn't worry much about them. But while I'm doing, I may as well do... And yes, it's probably best to put a patch over them after I fill. I'm not too keen on disturbing the rivets along the seam though, I wonder if I went just up to the edge with the patch instead of bending it over, if it will be adequate.
Another thought I had was bending it over the edge, but drilling holes to fit over the existing rivets... Just thinking out loud here

 

[hayko1971]

Here are some more photos of my trailer. The distance between the wheel wells is 53". The width of the boat is at the narrow bottom is around 63". It must ride above the wheel wells like it currently does.

 

[64osby]

I like the mud flaps. Saw a trailer just the other day that had them, had a 14' lowe on it.

On my 1st boat I added some angled carpeted boards on the inside of the wheel well, kept the boat from rubbing the fenders.

 

[jbcurt00]

Carpeted inner fender wells would be a good idea, IMO, having the backside open to the wheel will get road debris thrown towards the boat side of the wheel well.