It begins

[hayko1971]

yes, I have to clean it all up yet and fill holes etc... I have a bunch of holes on the tops of the gunnals that are from removed snaps. I plan to fill them with JB weld.
When people do that, do they just use regular JB weld or a marine formulation?

 

[classiccat]

After seeing that broken transom brace, I would take it out and replace it with either a direct replacement or a manufactured version from a machine shop. I personally wouldn't try to do a patch job on it and hope it is okay. A good aluminum welder can fabricate a replacement that will hold up a lot better then some aluminum angle pieces bolted on that brace. It depends on how nice you want your project to look after you finish. But more important is the structural capability of that brace as well. Anyway, an interesting project boat that I will have to follow... :thumb:

Fitment of a new brace in an aluminum boat carries an entirely new set of challenges but it can certainly be done...getting the tabs to align perfectly with 4 different angled (and asymmetric) surfaces would be a challenge. Around these parts, that job would probably cost 1/2-as-much as another hull if it were farmed-out.

so...I like my chances there gm :lol:


Hayko, I use regular JB weld...I was unaware of a marine formulation when I purchased my industrial-sized tubs. I'll have to look into what the differences are between the two formulations. :nerd:

 

[hayko1971]

Fitment of a new brace in an aluminum boat carries an entirely new set of challenges but it can certainly be done...getting the tabs to align perfectly with 4 different angled (and asymmetric) surfaces would be a challenge. Around these parts, that job would probably cost 1/2-as-much as another hull if it were farmed-out.

so...I like my chances there gm :lol:


Hayko, I use regular JB weld...I was unaware of a marine formulation when I purchased my industrial-sized tubs. I'll have to look into what the differences are between the two formulations. :nerd:

That repair looks quite strong, and I could do it myself. There is a boat wrecker close by, I'll look there for a new (not broken) one first. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[GoldDuster360]

Fitment of a new brace in an aluminum boat carries an entirely new set of challenges but it can certainly be done...getting the tabs to align perfectly with 4 different angled (and asymmetric) surfaces would be a challenge. Around these parts, that job would probably cost 1/2-as-much as another hull if it were farmed-out.

so...I like my chances there gm :lol:


Hayko, I use regular JB weld...I was unaware of a marine formulation when I purchased my industrial-sized tubs. I'll have to look into what the differences are between the two formulations. :nerd:

I bet that repaired part is stronger than original.

 

[GoldDuster360]

Nothing on my boat was perfectly drilled, no perfectly spaced holes, would be tough to use one from a donor boat and expect it to fit right off.

 

[gm280]

I have to admit "chassiccat" that the repair looks substantial and seems worthy enough. I was just wondering about the three sections of the OP's transom brace that were broken. If he can duplicate your efforts, then yes I see that working quite well. I was thinking that fixing a such a broken up support that it would be a better idea to refabricate such a piece and use it. When you see fractured parts on a support brace like that you have to know it is seeing some serious stress. And with age on aluminum, it will continue to break. That was my only suggestion to go with a new remanufactured part in its place. Nice job though I'll give you that! :thumb:

 

[wheeldriver]

Here?s something to ponder in repairing that knee brace. Every structural engineer will tell you if you have a structural fail from stress at one location and you in turn reinforce that part of the structure making it much stronger to prevent it from happening again, those forces that initially caused the problem don?t simply go away. Those forces will be transferred to a new location or locations. In this case that would be the lower end of the knee brace that?s attached to the hull itself. I would not over build and make that repaired knee brace bullet proof. Simply repair it to the same level of build from the factory as best you can. I suggest using only 1/8? thick angled aluminum and repairing it like classiccat has shown. Why only 1/8? Think of that area that failed as a sacrificial anode. If many years from now the next owner gets lazy and never replaces that transom it won?t result in a more serious structural fail, that being hull damage. That knee brace is not a faulty design, it failed as a result of a previous owner not replacing a wooden transom long before it was due.

Keep the photos coming.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Here’s something to ponder in repairing that knee brace. Every structural engineer will tell you if you have a structural fail from stress at one location and you in turn reinforce that part of the structure making it much stronger to prevent it from happening again, those forces that initially caused the problem don’t simply go away. Those forces will be transferred to a new location or locations. In this case that would be the lower end of the knee brace that’s attached to the hull itself. I would not over build and make that repaired knee brace bullet proof. Simply repair it to the same level of build from the factory as best you can. I suggest using only 1/8” thick angled aluminum and repairing it like classiccat has shown. Why only 1/8? Think of that area that failed as a sacrificial anode. If many years from now the next owner gets lazy and never replaces that transom it won’t result in a more serious structural fail, that being hull damage. That knee brace is not a faulty design, it failed as a result of a previous owner not replacing a wooden transom long before it was due.

Keep the photos coming.

That thereis something i have not even though about. Transferring one faulty area to another once fault was repaired. good point to consider.

 

[hayko1971]

Here’s something to ponder in repairing that knee brace. Every structural engineer will tell you if you have a structural fail from stress at one location and you in turn reinforce that part of the structure making it much stronger to prevent it from happening again, those forces that initially caused the problem don’t simply go away. Those forces will be transferred to a new location or locations. In this case that would be the lower end of the knee brace that’s attached to the hull itself. I would not over build and make that repaired knee brace bullet proof. Simply repair it to the same level of build from the factory as best you can. I suggest using only 1/8” thick angled aluminum and repairing it like classiccat has shown. Why only 1/8? Think of that area that failed as a sacrificial anode. If many years from now the next owner gets lazy and never replaces that transom it won’t result in a more serious structural fail, that being hull damage. That knee brace is not a faulty design, it failed as a result of a previous owner not replacing a wooden transom long before it was due.

Keep the photos coming.

This is actually something I discussed with friends at work. I would hate to make the upper support so strong that it rips the rivets out of the bottom of the hull. I think with the new transom and some 1/8 angle I should be good. My plan is to cut off the broken "wings" then jb weld and rivet the angle on.
I may throw the old transom back in and bolt the angle to it so all lines up well. Or should I just wait until the new transom is built?

 

[wheeldriver]

I'd wait for the new transom. If you don?t have a transom saver I?d highly recommended getting one. That Johnson 90 from what I?ve found is 300lbs, that nearly half the weight of your entire boat.

 

[Watermann]

On the JB weld questions. You can use the runny JB or the 2 part stick JB for the holes. I like the runny JB or Marine Tex for the larger areas of pitting and for AL that's been ate up over a larger area. For just the holes it's super easy to use the stick JB to pinch off a wad and mushroom it in the holes one at a time and it doesn't go running off on you.

 

[hayko1971]

On the JB weld questions. You can use the runny JB or the 2 part stick JB for the holes. I like the runny JB or Marine Tex for the larger areas of pitting and for AL that's been ate up over a larger area. For just the holes it's super easy to use the stick JB to pinch off a wad and mushroom it in the holes one at a time and it doesn't go running off on you.

Perfect, thank you.

 

[hayko1971]

Does anyone know where Gluvit can be acquired in Canada to be shipped to Saskatchewan? None of the boat stores in my area (Prince Albert Saskatchewan) have even heard of it and it seems like there's an issue shipping Gluvit to my address from the states. Is it against some Canadian law to ship this stuff? If so is there another acceptable alternative for sealing the inside of my hull?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I think some people go with "coat it"? Is that available there?

 

[dozerII]

Does anyone know where Gluvit can be acquired in Canada to be shipped to Saskatchewan? None of the boat stores in my area (Prince Albert Saskatchewan) have even heard of it and it seems like there's an issue shipping Gluvit to my address from the states. Is it against some Canadian law to ship this stuff? If so is there another acceptable alternative for sealing the inside of my hull?

Hayko PM sent with the info on Gluvit, another Saskatchewan member :thumb:

 

[hayko1971]

Thank you Glen!

 

[hayko1971]

it warmed up a bit today, still snowed, but got up to +1 Celsius so I got a bit more done on the boat.
Everything that can be removed has been removed.

As I was drilling out the rivets on the trim around the inside of the gunnels the springiness of the aluminum was giving me grief as it wanted to pull away and caused my bit to wander, I used quick clamps to prevent that

 

[hayko1971]

Floor is out, the pieces are good enough to be used as templates

 

[hayko1971]

This is all the foam that was under the floor, it doesn't look like much. I thought the sides and under the gunnels were stuffed good though.

 

[hayko1971]

All the foam removed, now I need to wait for it to warm up a bit so I can pressure wash it out and strip the paint. Then pun the Gluvit on. You can see ice in the bottom of the hull. I hope that hasn't popped and rivets loose.


Does anyone know how warm it needs to be before I can use the paint stripper? I plan to try the safe strip mixed with a little flour as seen in this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJVyacEQLPM
Thanks to the guy who made the video!