Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Gents, I have about 2.5-3 gals of resin left. Do you think this will be enough to wet out about 70 sq ft of 10 oz cloth?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Looking good! I really like your round bases for the seat pedestals... I'll be interested to hear what it's like to lay glass over them, and I cannot wait to see the seats mounted. I think that will look really sharp.

Looks like you're doing great work and moving along with the rebuild. Won't be too long before you're back on the water...

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Looking good! I really like your round bases for the seat pedestals... I'll be interested to hear what it's like to lay glass over them, and I cannot wait to see the seats mounted. I think that will look really sharp.

The 1708 went over them pretty well. The best thing (I think) I did was make relief cuts from the base of the pedestal outwards every 15 degrees or so. I won't lie, there are some bubbles but I don't believe anything larger than 1/4 in. I think this was mainly because I didnt wait until my first coat of resin was tacky enough and I was rushing it in the heat.
If I could only find me someone to supply me with an ac cooled shop.... I think I might settle for tent:tan:

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

3 gals should be enuf to wet out that much cloth.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Gents,
I'm on to repairing the issue that got this re-build started... The hull below the outdrive.





Okay here is where I am now



I would like to get some input here. I have grinded out all the hairline gel coat cracks until I found glass. The large cracks/holes were grinded down until finding my PB behind the transom. Should I continue grinding until reaching the CSM of the transom? Also, there is a depressed area above the large crack on the right side.

My plan is to grind off all the gel in the depressed area and attempting to fill the large cracks and depressed area with a layer or maybe two of csm. Then ruff up the csm and surrounding gel and adding a thin layer of thickened gel followed by another one layer of non-thickened gel. Then I would sand and polish to blend in. How does this sound?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

I see two options...
ONE- if the areas you already ground are down to the new material of the transom, you can fill and fair with a thickened PB mix...OR...
TWO- You can grind down to the areas I outlined below, give or take, and refill/rebuild the areas with a combination of CSM, 1708 and PB...
Really either/or will work since the underlying new transom is one solid piece...Actually that looks like good areas to treat as though you were doing a gel-coat repair similar to what YD describes here...
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...tress-cracks-diy-step-step-w-pics-320724.html



My 2?...

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Thanks GTI, I tried out YD method today so in the following days we'll see how it turns out.

I also, laid the 10oz cloth on the entire deck today. Dang that stuff is the rough to work with. I thought CSM was bad when I first started this project, however recently I prefer working with it over anything else, but this cloth is unforgiving as all get out. Before I knew it strands starting coming out and getting wrapped in my roller and all my neighbors could probably here me cursing this cloth.

I didn't get any pictures of the above tasks today, but I did get some pics of my ladder install.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

I didn't use 10 oz., but I did use 6 oz. as a top layer. I know your frustration. Once i got the hang of it, it wasn't so bad, but it sure isn't the easiest stuff to work with. Give me 1708 any day...

Your ladder install looks nice and sturdy. I can't remember; did you go with a Windline? Looks just like mine, but with an extra rung.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Yes sir, windline it is. Hey, this off topic, but did I see a Ford pickup in the background of one of your pics? I'm assuming that is your tow truck and I'm currently shopping for a new one. How has your luck been with it?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Next time, if there is one, when working with 6 or 10 oz cloth, try working it with a Bondo Spreader instead of a roller or brush. I think you'll find it will lay down and smooth out a lot better using that method. Work from the center out using light strokes and as always use minimal resin to wet it out. You can always add more if needed.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Yes sir, windline it is. Hey, this off topic, but did I see a Ford pickup in the background of one of your pics? I'm assuming that is your tow truck and I'm currently shopping for a new one. How has your luck been with it?

Yup, that's a 2005 F150. I really love it. I've never had a vehicle I liked so much. It's never had a lick of trouble, it's got great power and the ride is very comfortable. I only have about 50,000 miles on it, but it's what I take to northern Ontario when we go. I didn't get it with towing in mind, but it's a great tow vehicle for the boat. The only thing about it that I don't like is that the cloth seats show stains too easy, but I can live with that.

If I ever need to get another pickup, I can't see myself buying anything else.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Thanks for the info on the truck. I've been a GM 4.8L V8 (dog), Dodge (Dakota, V6 also a dog), Jeep (lots of fun, but not a tow vehicle) and latest Toyota (tacoma, great truck, but just doesn't have the weight and power) man in the past, but now I feel like trying out a Ford. I've found an 2011 F150 with the 5.0L and 16K miles that I might go look at in the near future.

Not much done today, just a little gelcoat in the bilge and ski locker. Man this stuff kicks quick! I mixed it at the lowest setting and might have had 15 minutes of work time. So, I had to adjust and just make small batches and go through lots of rollers and pans.

Pay no attention to the grinded out bubbles that I am in the middle of repairing :facepalm:

Before


After


Before


After

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

What Mekp ratio R U using? Temps? Shade or Sunlight?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

It's weird looking at your pictures... like looking at my own boat! You're doing nice work. This boat is going to look great when you're done!

 

[Piratehooker]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

really looking great, nice job.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Thanks guys! Taking a break to honor all those that have served. Hope you all have a great memorial day weekend.

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

WoG, I believe I was using 1.5% Mek/p and 5% styrene and I wasn't timing it, but was getting about 10 to 15 minutes of work time. Most of my work was in the shade and always kept my tray in the shade. Please let me know if there is something I can do to get more work time.

My initial mix was with 7.5% styrene, but that appeared to be really thin and didn't seem to cover well.

I was also using about 4% tint if that matter any... Thanks!

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Well, back at it again. I knew I was cutting it close ordering only another gallon of gel to finish up the deck (and misc panels). It stinks when you have the whole weekend ahead of you and you realize you can't do anything else cause you ran out of material.

I played with a few different shades of tint till my last coat got really close to where I wanted to be. And maybe the experts can chime in, but I swear that when wax is added the gel seems to cover soooo much better than w/o... Maybe its just me. Of course now I will need to scratch up with some 120 grit before I can finish up in some areas. But, that shouldn't take too long.

Its going to be really close, but I really hope to get the motor and outdrive back in this coming weekend. We shall see!

 

[HalfFish5087]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Oh, I'm looking for any opinions on some material to use on my misc panels... I call them kick panels. There is a set that goes below the helm and a set that covers up the transom which serve as screw plates for the blowers, hoses, wires, trim pump, etc. I have glassed the panels and plan to screw them back in place. But they will not have carpet put back on them as then did before. To keep these panels from squeaking and wearing into adjacent glass, I thought I would use some type of material at the mating surfaces. Maybe like some type of rubber that is glued or stapled onto the panels. Does anyone else have any other material ideas that would be better suited?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Is it worth it? '98 Larson 5.7GS DP Lower Transom Rot

Oh, I'm looking for any opinions on some material to use on my misc panels... I call them kick panels. There is a set that goes below the helm and a set that covers up the transom which serve as screw plates for the blowers, hoses, wires, trim pump, etc. I have glassed the panels and plan to screw them back in place. But they will not have carpet put back on them as then did before. To keep these panels from squeaking and wearing into adjacent glass, I thought I would use some type of material at the mating surfaces. Maybe like some type of rubber that is glued or stapled onto the panels. Does anyone else have any other material ideas that would be better suited?

A couple of ideas pop into mind...
You could use some kind of universal rubber weatherstripping or you could run a bead of 4200/5200 along the edges that you want to keep from rubbing, but instead of gluing the panels to the boat, let the sealant dry completely, then attach them to the boat...sort of like making your own gaskets/seals...

Another Iboats member, "ChrisCraft254", made his own gaskets using PVC pipe cut in half, then filling with silicone sealant, to create a half-moon shaped gasket...