Is it safe to weld a winch post to the coupler?

gbld37

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20210409_172116.jpg20210409_172039.jpg
Im new here, our boat and trailer are from the 80s and requires to be powerloaded onto the trailer. I like the current setup because I feel it is secure but would really like a winch. In the second picture you can see where I would like to have a winch post welded on, I'm wondering if it is safe to weld something to the coupler. I don't plan on having the winch be used to secure the boat while trailering, just to use it to get the boat on the trailer.

TIA
 

GA_Boater

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The first time you turn left or right, the post will be ripped off and just might bend the tongue.

Back up and take a couple more pics that show us something.
 

jbcurt00

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Never seen a REQUIRED to power load boat/trailer combo.....

Some ramps its frowned upon.
 

gbld37

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The first time you turn left or right, the post will be ripped off and just might bend the tongue.

Back up and take a couple more pics that show us something.
20210409_184436.jpg20210409_184430.jpg
Not sure if these pictures help.
What would tear the post off? It'll definitely clear both the boat and car. Would it be the force and pressure that would tear it off?

Thanks
 

gbld37

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Never seen a REQUIRED to power load boat/trailer combo.....

Some ramps its frowned upon.
Yeah the boat has been in dry stack storage for a long time, so we haven't run into any issues. Just trying to take it to a couple different lakes and I thought most ramps didn't allow power loading.
 

matt167

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Some places have officers hiding to issue tickets to power loaders.

That trailer setup is like no other that I have ever seen.. For sure it's missing a winch stand. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be like that.. Eliminate that V bow bunk mess, and install a winch stand where the trailer splits into a Y
 

GA_Boater

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The bumper and post will hit each other unless you make very wide turns.

I would whack off the triangle thing off, mount the post against the jack mount, put a winch on the post and move the safety tie down.

That isn't the trailer that came with the boat. I'm not sure it fits the boat.
 

gbld37

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The bumper and post will hit each other unless you make very wide turns.

I would whack off the triangle thing off, mount the post against the jack mount, put a winch on the post and move the safety tie down.

That isn't the trailer that came with the boat. I'm not sure it fits the boat.
20210409_192850.jpg
I'm confident that this is the original trailer, but the triangle thing looks like it was added on after. Thanks for the advice, will start looking for some more gear.
 

ahicks

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This is the way many inboard trailers were done going back a few years. The boats were literally floated into position and fastened in place using the bow eye and a bracket similar to that one.

There's no reason you couldn't fashion a sturdy winch stand on that trailer. Judging by what appear to be rust pits that are pretty deep, I would replace that coupler too!

Why couldn't the winch stand be placed further back, maybe near where the post jack is installed? With a winch stand that's been done properly, you won't need that bracket the turnbuckle is fastened to either. Cut that off to help make room for the stand there?
 

gbld37

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This is the way many inboard trailers were done going back a few years. The boats were literally floated into position and fastened in place using the bow eye and a bracket similar to that one.

There's no reason you couldn't fashion a sturdy winch stand on that trailer. Judging by what appear to be rust pits that are pretty deep, I would replace that coupler too!

Why couldn't the winch stand be placed further back, maybe near where the post jack is installed? With a winch stand that's been done properly, you won't need that bracket the turnbuckle is fastened to either. Cut that off to help make room for the stand there?
Do you think its worth all that work or should I start looking for a different trailer?
 

racerone

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Find the proper trailer.---As it is now it is disaster looking for a place to happen.
 

ahicks

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I don't know what the others are seeing regarding "proper trailer". That IS the proper trailer! I don't think these guys have been shopping for trailers that will accommodate a straight inboard lately. The dropped cross members to accommodate/protect the running gear and rudder are not something you run across everyday. Not in my travels anyway...

The question is whether it could use/is worth some up dating. To get that opinion, I would say go over the trailer carefully, especially the axle, the springs, and spring attach points. If that looks decent, I'd say go for it. Even if you had to replace the axle it would likely still be worth it.

Somebody good with a cutting torch or angle grinder could have that trailer set up/ready for a new winch stand and tongue jack in half an hour. -Al
 

gbld37

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I don't know what the others are seeing regarding "proper trailer". That IS the proper trailer! I don't think these guys have been shopping for trailers that will accommodate a straight inboard lately. The dropped cross members to accommodate/protect the running gear and rudder are not something you run across everyday. Not in my travels anyway...

The question is whether it could use/is worth some up dating. To get that opinion, I would say go over the trailer carefully, especially the axle, the springs, and spring attach points. If that looks decent, I'd say go for it. Even if you had to replace the axle it would likely still be worth it.

Somebody good with a cutting torch or angle grinder could have that trailer set up/ready for a new winch stand and tongue jack in half an hour. -Al
Thanks, just recently the trailer was checked and serviced and mechanically is fine. Has a decent amount of cosmetic rust but nothing that appears to be serious.
I see a lot of people with the same boat and trailer have replaced it with a post with ramp n clamp/boat buddy, are there any other secure alternatives I should know about?
 

GA_Boater

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That isn't the trailer that came with the boat. I'm not sure it fits the boat.

I stand corrected. That is the original trailer. A pic below from the Mastercraft forum.

The turnbuckle is not needed. The flat hinged piece over the bow eye is the safety tie-down. I haven't found a pic of how the winch is mounted, but it is very low. You can remove the turnbuckle and mount a winch on triangle.

mastercraft.png
 

ahicks

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If you look at the original pictures, it should be easy to see that a winch could be mounted where the base of the turnbuckle is fastened. The problem is, this setup requires the boat to be floated on to the trailer. Using a winch mounted on that existing plate, it will be pulling on the bow eye at an awkward angle. Not good if you need to drag the boat up on to the trailer a few inches. Or at best, certainly not as well as a conventionally mounted winch on a stand/bow stop like we see used more commonly.

Owners call/preference the way I'm seeing it. MANY (most?) of these boats are stored on lifts in somebody's front yard and trailered to/from the lake in spring and fall. If the ramp they use is decent, the existing setup will work just fine.....
 

Commander_47

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I would lose the turnbuckle and either:
A. Have a robust winch mount fashioned and welded to the lower turnbuckle shackle plate.
B. Cut off that lower bracket and fashion a totally new bracket.

I have personally never heard of any boat ramp police complain about an electric winch? Why?
 

Scott Danforth

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I believe the way the trailer was modified was it was intended to be backed in far enough to float the boat to the trailer, then pull out. look at the back of the trailer as to how the strut, prop, and rudder nest in the trailer. some of the trailers do not allow winching, some do.
 

DarrinT

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Also welds can fail while high strength bolts are preferred
 
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