Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips
Hello all,
Been reading through this thread for the past 2 days, its absolutely amazing some of the work and ingenuity on the modifications I have seen here!!! I have had my Mariner 4 for 2 years now, and other than the motor mount, a Minn Kota 30 and a battery center i have not done that much to the boat itself. I was mainly using this boat for a yearly trip we take to the Shenandoah River, where we get a cabin and stay for 3-4 days. This will mark the 6th year we have gone and I had both the extra $$ and time to start making some additional modifications. I went to Lowe's and got 2 sheets of 19/32 plywood, a gallon of outdoor deck paint to treat the wood, and the 1/2 inch foam pipe insulators for the edges. I also bought a dry box, a waterproof Bluetooth speaker, 11" seat post with swivel and a John Boat style folding seat for the back.
I want to make a 2 piece floor to make it easier to handle when the boat is in storage. I have seen several people talk about their wood floors but i wanted to see which option is best. Should I, A: Not connect the two pieces at all. B: Hing the pieces together at the middle. C: Use a slat connection with bolts.
My second question is should i just use the slat floor as a template? Or does someone have good measurements for their own wood floor. I know no two boats are exactly the same, but a rough estimate would save me allot of time.
I have looked at several pictures of each of these, I just wanted to get some opinions on setting it up. Will definitely get some pictures up on here as soon as possible, as of now i only have the slat floor out. Thanks for your suggestions and keep up the great work!!
This was done for a Mariner3 but the measurement method will work..just use the measurements you get on your boat ****Not exact for Mariner 4*****USE THE MEASUREMENT YOU GET FOR YOUR BOAT***
1..Used OSB 15/32 from H depot
2.I measured the longest line from bow to stern of the inflated floor , (remember to tuck the measuring tape snug under the side tubes and front and rear tube)and found the center of that line( divide distance by 2)
mark this with a small magic marker dot. My length was 96 inches divide by two is 48
3.Repeat the measurement for width at the widest spot of the inflated boat floor ...mine was 27inch (divide by 2 is 13 1/2 ),,mark center of that line at the mark you made for the length. This is exact center of boat.
4.From that point you have 48 inches to the bow , to the stern, and 13 1/2 inches to each side.
5 I took an inch off all dimensions..front, rear, and both sides
6. ask H depot to make the cuts for you when you buy
7. my dimensions that were cut were 24 1/2x 94( extra 1/2 inch off the sides ...fudge factor)
9. have them cut that piece in half=47x24 1/2each piece(mine)
10. find the center point of the two lines, marked on your boat with magic marker.measure up to the first section where the chambers agle inward.
11.measure this distance across and mark this distance on your wood, repeat this measurement up a the next angle(where the chambers angle inward..It is almost a 45 degree angle on each of the two inward angles that the chambers make. This is difficult to describe..but you can see that the wood has to be cut at the angles.
12.measure up from the center point again on the boat, 47 inches on my intex. Measure the length of that line all the way under the inflated side chambers, and then take two inchesoff that line measurement.....mine was 7 1/12 inches wide(9 1/2 minus 2)
This will be the measurement of the very end of each piece of wood. You will now see that this must be cut to this dimension , with the angles. The wood will fit in the boat with 1 inch to spare on the top , bottom and all sides.A skill saw or hand saw will cut the angles easily.
13. Mark and cut your wood ...I had to trim ever so slightly..you may need to also.Better to trim each side a little than to cut alot off one side or the other.
14. when the dimensions are right, with at least inch to spare top,bottom, and all sides.( this is when the extra inch comes in..the pipe insulation will take up this extra inch on all sides)..
I used a file to round all the edges of the wood for splinters..some use a router,sander etc...the pipe insulation will cover all the edges,anyway.
Paint the wood on both sides with a primer sealer..I used white acrylic(about 1 quart will do the job) was told oil based is better...but the drying time and fumes were not worth it to me.
15. let dry for 2 days...repeat paint...this makes a good seal on the wood and all edges
16. You will have to cut a hole in one of the pieces to accomodate the floor valve...about a 2 1/2 in hole...measure location very accurately before cutting...and seal the hole with above primer sealer.
16. I used 3/4 inch styrofoam pipe insulation( the look like pool play toys..and can be found at home depot..they are about 6 foot long etc.split ) open the insulation lengthwise,and slide over the edge of the wood all around..including the bottom of each piece of wood where they will match up and meet in the middle of the floor of the boat. This will prevent any abrasion of the wood against the floor or the side chambers where the floor and sides meet.
This insulation takes up the extra inch on all sides of the boat..making installation very snug.
Last... I used indoor outdoor carpet, with proper indor outdoor carpet cement to cover 1 (ONE)side of the wood.
Cement the carpet first..then attach pipe insulation..over carpet around the entire perimeter of the wood..as note above.
Fit and trim as needed...
you should end up with a nice looking floor, very stable,
Installation instruction...partially inflat chamber 1 and 2...about 1/3 full, ****NOTE MARINER 3 ONLY HAS 3 CHAMBERS***
install each piece of the wood floor, making sure the floor valve of the boat is centered in the hole that was cut in the wood for it(once again..BE VERY ACCURATE WHEN CUTTING THE HOLE IN THE WOOD FOR THE FLOOR VALVE)....
anyway..then fill chamber one and then two, and the fill floor chamber...it may seem more difficult because of the wood on it..but you will see how it works when you do this, In fact..the floor can be left less than fully inflated because of the support of the wood,...But yes ..you can fill the floor also to full. You will see what I mean.The floor section may seem like it is not filling as well, this is the weight of the wood. if you get the floor about 1/2 full, then launch...I use the hand pump to top the side chambers and fill the floor while in the water,,,works easier for me.
** there are many videos on Y T that show this procedure for different inflatable boats....watching one will make the whole thing make sense...
***********NOTE TO FLOOR BUILDERS******** 6/4/14.....See note on june 3.........regarding using OSB
DO NOT USE OSB......IT Loves water too much....Go with 1/2 or 15/32 plywood. All other instructions are good to go.
